Very helpful thanks, I feel I need to get in a pro to calibrate the speakers for me, I have no idea what I am doing.Hi. I can give it a try. I hope I don't dumb it down too much, but you said laymans terms.
The first image shows how loud (dB on the Y axis) it is at each frequency in Hz along the X axis. It looks to my novice eye that you have a high pass filter set around 60Hz
Image 2 shows the decay time at each frequency. This is essentially how long it takes a sound played at each frequency to dissipate. Imagine clapping your hands in a hall. The "echo" is the decay time. In a Home Theater, Dolby recommend this should be between 0.2-0.4ms ideally. So you need to take a look at around 800Hz to 5kHz where these figures are exceeded. This can be helped by adding room treatments to the room such as Acoustic Panels. The gauge on the left shows the max, min and average volume (dB) across the entire frequency sweep (if i'm not mistaken). The blue line also shows you have a room null at 40Hz and 950Hz. I dont want to patronise, but since you said in layman's terms, a room null is when there is a dead spot where the sound bouncing off the walls causes the sound at specific frequencies, in specific locations within your room to cancel out, and so you have reduced volume. If you move a few feet in any direction in your room, these "Nulls" will change
I'm assuming in image 3 that the green and yellow lines are your L+R speakers measured independently. Both of these played together create the blue line I spoke about above.
Image 4 shows the frequency content (on the Y axis represented in Hz) of the sound being played vs time (X axis) Blue = low content (quiet) and Red = High Content (Loud). As you can see you have a lot of content down to about 50Hz and then the volume drops off below that frequency. This confirms image 1 having a Highpass filter at around 60Hz
Also, it looks like you may have a time alignment issue between your left and right speakers which can also cause room nulls.
I hope this info is helpful to you.
The room isn’t actually my final room so has no treatment, it’s just all the gear in a room testing if what I have works for now, basically I’m just messing around trying to understand how to use what I have.I was going to ask if the kit/mic works with REW. While I'm sure the XTZ software is suitable you'll likely get more help with REW which is better supported.
The response looks ok, albeit without subs, but some of those decays look long, if that's what we're looking at. Any treatment in your room?
Like I say this isn’t the final room, I’m just trying to get to grips with how to calibrate (I currently only have LCR and sub channels wired up for now)There's a lot of hard surfaces in that room. I'm guessing that if clap in a corner you'll hear flutter echo. Treatment will help, but that'll be hard to do and keep the character of the room. Maybe heavy tapestries and thick velvet curtains. That can always come later.
When I said that REW is better supported, I just meant that more people are familiar with it. As I say, I'm sure the XTZ software is great, but I have no idea how to use it - that could just be me!
How are you planning on driving all those subs?
That’s fair. Moved.Why is this thread in the diy forum? Can a mod move it to the sub forum (which seems more appropriate to me)?
I guess so at some point, it just seems extremely complicated for a noob like me.With 8 to 12 subs I'm not sure that's an option you have available to you!
It'll likely be fine to start but it'll probably need some sort of management and EQ over and above that. Just a guess, you might be fine.
Thanks, any tips or links how to get it up and running ?I can confirm the xtz mic does work with rew. The results are almost identical to a umik
I’ve got an iPad Pro if that helpsOooh pc, im a mac man..sorry lot easier..it just worked with the cal file and instru from xtz