Electrician help - 20amp socket for cooker

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by FZR400RRSP, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. FZR400RRSP

    FZR400RRSP
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    A colleague has just moved into a flat.
    He bought a new cooker, they've refused to wire it up because it requires a 40amp socket and he only has a 20amp socket.
    Now, am I right in thinking replacing the 20amp for a 40amp may require re-wiring?
    In which case, is he better off getting a cooker that can cope with 20amp?
    And how do you know what the cooker can and can't cope with when you're buying?:confused:
    If you look on comet/currys website, nothing about socket required.
    It's a gas hob/electric oven cooker, so it's not as if he'd have massive electricity draw running the hob and oven simultaneously.
     
  2. RBZ5416

    RBZ5416
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    If it's dual fuel then I can't imagine an oven taxing even 20A never mind 40A. Specs normally list the kw consumption. If it's a dual oven then add them together & divide by 240 to get the current in amps. You'll obviously need some overhead as well but 20A should be plenty.

    Got a link to the actual cooker?
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2012
  3. FZR400RRSP

    FZR400RRSP
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  4. Kristian

    Kristian
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    It says it needs hardwiring by an electrician.

    20A = 4.6KW and 40A = 9.2KW at 230V but it doesn't state any power info on the description.
     
  5. RBZ5416

    RBZ5416
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    Tricky, it looks like a Comet special so no specs available elsewhere. The user manual should give it's power consumption, or it will be printed on alabel on the back. Maybe one of these is incorrectly listed? As long as it's within spec of the existing socket it's probably easier to get a local spark to wire it rather than waste time with Comet. Could always try recouping the cost using the spark's invoice as proof although it will probably be cheaper by cash. ;)

    Not sure if a spark is legally required for this. I dare say one will be along shortly to confirm.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2012
  6. FZR400RRSP

    FZR400RRSP
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    I noticed that, so I went googling.
    Can't find any reference to it anywhere other than Comet.
    What's the consensus of best thing to do then?
    New socket and possible rewire?
    Or look for another cooker?
    He's stated he doesn't need a double oven, even though the Prestige one he's bought has a double oven.
    He just thought that was a grill, not another oven.
     
  7. FZR400RRSP

    FZR400RRSP
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  8. RBZ5416

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    It may be worth actually inspecting the cooker. Some dual fuel models have a standard 13A plug for the oven.
     
  9. campy mccamper

    campy mccamper
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    Really a cooker should have it's own dedicated circuit with a double pole switch. 20 amps is too much for your average 32 amp ring main and the max fuse rating for a standard plug is 13 amps.
     
  10. sparkie1984

    sparkie1984
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    As above, most modern fan ovens only require a 20a supply it's the hobs which have big loads but it's going to push a kitchen ring main to the limit if it's on full load and there's a kettle,etc running
     
  11. its_all_Greek

    its_all_Greek
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    The OP didn't say it was on the ring and didn't have its on dedicated feed, he just says that it is a 20A rated socket, which i suspect is wrong and it is a 20A double pole switch.

    @the OP Your friend needs to get an electrician to look at it, if the cable is big enough it may and i stress may be big enough to uprate the cooker switch and breaker if necessary.
     
  12. Berties

    Berties
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    yeah mine does, when I got it thought weird, usually wired up to 40A dedicated supply to the RCD/fusebox.
     
  13. niceguy235uk

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    If you open the main or grill door, either around the edge of the door, or the opening there should be a label with all the info.

    Jut because the cooker is rated at 20A, does not mean it will use 20A due to allowing for diversity by calculation.

    Im afraid with the likes of comet, the monkeys that deliver & connect, only have basic training, if any.

    As others have said, even if the oven has a 13A plug connected to it, it doesnt mean you can just plug it in anywhere.

    Call a sparky.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2012
  14. sparkie1984

    sparkie1984
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    So true, I got called to a friends house because the custom wardrobe company couldn't connect the led's to anything other than a socket outlet.... a JB/flex outlet or 3A outlet was no good, had to be literally turn up build and plug in.
     
  15. nheather

    nheather
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    Second that. When we did our kitchen we had a slight preference for electric hob and oven - they were fairly big 6 'ring' hob and double oven and our 40A circuit wasn't big enough.

    Rewiring was going to be a pain so we settled on a gas hob in the end.

    Cheers,

    Nigel
     
  16. lynx

    lynx
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    Not withstanding 134.1.1
    Not advice...i'd be inclined (installation permitting) to connect with butyl flex and monitor the situation.
     
  17. niceguy235uk

    niceguy235uk
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    So how do you know that it isnt already prewired?

    I have seen many, many ovens installed with standard T&E that have suffered absolutely no issues at all.
     
  18. lynx

    lynx
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    Certain assumptions are being made - one that the appliance isn't pre-wired (i think thats a fair assumption to make for this purpose). and the circuits are generally appropriate -R1+R2 and Zs.

    I was also clear that this didn't constitute advice, simply what i'd consider in these circs.
     
  19. niceguy235uk

    niceguy235uk
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    Im not sure R1+R2 and EFLI are relevant considering the circuit could well be undersized.
     
  20. lynx

    lynx
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    You are correct re relevance - i was simply making a few assumptions.
     

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