Electrical Related Q - Socket to Power Strip

NeverEden

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Hi All

I wanted to know if the following is legal/safe to do and if it's being done in the most efficient way. I currently have a switched single socket outlet which I've plugged in a surge protected power strip. What I want to do is remove the plug from the power strip and wire it directly to the socket (replaced with a switched fuse socket) - similar to washing machines, ovens etc. Is this possible and safe to do?

Images below of everything I mean

1607775282892.png
1607775296835.png

1607775338347.png
 
Yes.

Although my employer says that extension trailing leads, are the work of the devil, and should be immediately removed if spotted on site.

The FCU fuse, will limit the load to 13A, and the DP switch would isolate the lead, if that was required. What are you intending to plug into the power strip.
 
Just an additional thought:

Could make sure you buy a double pole fused switch, to totally kill all power to the extension when the switch is flipped.
Will admit, technically as long as you are sure cables are protected and not running wires horizontally and hidden in a wall, so someone may drill into it, sounds technically fine. My gut feeling is perhaps official regulations would not be happy with the concept.
 
Thanks guys. I shouldve mentioned that it would actually be always on and the power strip is currently used for a tv and soundbar. The plug is just adding bulk which is not allowing a fireplace to sit flush with the wall.
 
One could suggest something like this:

With the flex going directly into the front of the switch was safer due to the fact you'd not be hiding any wire, and no one could 'accidentally' find a buried wire.
 
How much thickness do you need to save?
You can get slimline 13a single switched socket:
1607783355913.png

and you used to be able (I'm looking at one now) to get slimline 13a plugs.
(Infact it's first on this page).
That might get you close to what the wired-in solution is.
 
One could suggest something like this:

With the flex going directly into the front of the switch was safer due to the fact you'd not be hiding any wire, and no one could 'accidentally' find a buried wire.
Yes essentially it would be but wont it need to be chased in so i can connect it to the back of the socket via the outlet ?
 
Yes essentially it would be but wont it need to be chased in so i can connect it to the back of the socket via the outlet ?

The bottom left plastic circle, you pop out, and that's where your cable would feed in.
So there is no chasing, or hiding a cable in the wall to do.
Whilst not as neat a chasing/hiding it in the wall. I suspect, it would be 'officially' approved as it's then obvious that this is the power cable come from the switch.
People seem to get excited when cables are hidden.

I have pretty much the exact same type of switched unit feeding my Immersion Tank.
(took a photo for you)
Then no one could be 'electrically surprised' by what you have done ;)

7b639458c6129a1bae8a45785a2d59e1.png
 
Just an additional thought:

Could make sure you buy a double pole fused switch, to totally kill all power to the extension when the switch is flipped.
Will admit, technically as long as you are sure cables are protected and not running wires horizontally and hidden in a wall, so someone may drill into it, sounds technically fine. My gut feeling is perhaps official regulations would not be happy with the concept.

You mean like the FCU pictured in OP's opening post? :)

FCU are designed for the connection of fixed appliances, socket outlets for portable or temporary use appliances. They are designed for ease of use. It would not make sense to use a FCU for a table lamp. However, socket outlets are often used to connect fixed appliances, like small in built domestic ovens, extractor fans etc.
 
The bottom left plastic circle, you pop out, and that's where your cable would feed in.
So there is no chasing, or hiding a cable in the wall to do.
Whilst not as neat a chasing/hiding it in the wall. I suspect, it would be 'officially' approved as it's then obvious that this is the power cable come from the switch.
People seem to get excited when cables are hidden.

I have pretty much the exact same type of switched unit feeding my Immersion Tank.
(took a photo for you)
Then no one could be 'electrically surprised' by what you have done ;)

7b639458c6129a1bae8a45785a2d59e1.png
Just to be picky, thats a 20A DP switch with flex outlet. A fused connection unit, is designed to supply 13A switched (DP) fused supply. They are different things.
 
Just to be picky, thats a 20A DP switch with flex outlet. A fused connection unit, is designed to supply 13A switched (DP) fused supply. They are different things.
The bottom left plastic circle, you pop out, and that's where your cable would feed in.
So there is no chasing, or hiding a cable in the wall to do.
Whilst not as neat a chasing/hiding it in the wall. I suspect, it would be 'officially' approved as it's then obvious that this is the power cable come from the switch.
People seem to get excited when cables are hidden.

I have pretty much the exact same type of switched unit feeding my Immersion Tank.
(took a photo for you)
Then no one could be 'electrically surprised' by what you have done ;)

7b639458c6129a1bae8a45785a2d59e1.png
I didn't even know such a thing exists and this would be ideal plus save me the hassle of chasing! As @ufo550 mentions - "20A DP switch with flex outlet" - Will this be sufficient to power the powerstrip ?
 
20A will be way enough :)
That's a LOT of power.
Only when you start plugging in electric heaters are you going to be using any real amount of power.
I only mention this as hiding cables in the wall starts to get people excited.
If you have a fused switch and the lead coming out the front of the switch, then it's all on display and hence of course much safer for others who don't have to guess where power cables are hidden in walls.
 
20A will be way enough :)
That's a LOT of power.
Only when you start plugging in electric heaters are you going to be using any real amount of power.
I only mention this as hiding cables in the wall starts to get people excited.
If you have a fused switch and the lead coming out the front of the switch, then it's all on display and hence of course much safer for others who don't have to guess where power cables are hidden in walls.
Ok this is very useful. As in case we do end up using the electric fireplace on the same power strip - whats a safe amperage fuse which will power that plus a tv and soundbar?
 
I didn't even know such a thing exists and this would be ideal plus save me the hassle of chasing! As @ufo550 mentions - "20A DP switch with flex outlet" - Will this be sufficient to power the powerstrip ?
20A will be way enough :)
That's a LOT of power.
Only when you start plugging in electric heaters are you going to be using any real amount of power.
I only mention this as hiding cables in the wall starts to get people excited.
If you have a fused switch and the lead coming out the front of the switch, then it's all on display and hence of course much safer for others who don't have to guess where power cables are hidden in walls.

No, do not use a 20A DP switch.

That is used for 3kW immersion heaters etc. The power strip you posted, has a BS1363 moulded plug attached. It will have a BS1362 fuse (typically 3A-13A). It is there to protect the flexible cable.

If your removing the moulded plug as your are suggesting, using a 20A DP, does not protect the flexible cable. The FCU will have a BS1362 fuse in it.

Really @Tempest
 
No, do not use a 20A DP switch.

That is used for 3kW immersion heaters etc. The power strip you posted, has a BS1363 moulded plug attached. It will have a BS1362 fuse (typically 3A-13A). It is there to protect the flexible cable.

If your removing the moulded plug as your are suggesting, using a 20A DP, does not protect the flexible cable. The FCU will have a BS1362 fuse in it.

Really @Tempest
Argghhh so what option do I have similar to whats been posted above ?
 
Perfect :)

Regulations may say otherwise ;)
 
I guess that goes back to my original q regarding legality. Is it ? Also silly q but would the fuse from the power strip plug be put in here ?
 
Would part p building regs apply to this change of socket?
Part P Building Regs, ask you to comply with BS7671. Replacing a faceplate could require some testing. A Minor works certificate could accompany such works.

The world over, I doubt very much that that would happen.

I have a colleague at work, that is not qualified in any fashion. Does all sorts of electrical works for people; the only testing he does is the 'Bang Test'.
 

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