Electric Shower broken help

djcla

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My electric Mira Zest shower keeps cutting out after 8 minutes or so of use , if i turn it off for a bit it will work again. I am assuming its had its time and i need a replacment unless anyone has any other ideas? Anyway the hower runs back to its own trip switch how do i find out what wattage shower i can buy?
 
My electric Mira Zest shower keeps cutting out after 8 minutes or so of use , if i turn it off for a bit it will work again. I am assuming its had its time and i need a replacment unless anyone has any other ideas? Anyway the hower runs back to its own trip switch how do i find out what wattage shower i can buy?

Will it run as normal if you reduce the temperature and have you noticed a drop in water pressure? Sounds like a over heat safety cut out! If it runs as normal at a lower temperature I would suspect that would confirm its over heating!
 
Seems to cut out regardless of on how hot i have it , tried low and coldest temp and after 5 mins cuts out :( .. Water Pressure is fine
 
Try Shower Spares & Parts | Shower Doctor I've used them on a couple of occasions and they have proved to be very good. The website has all sorts of help for different shower manufacturers.
 
My best guess is it has scaled up and is overheating. I don't know if you can get replacement boiler units for these things but that may be your best option. Does it have its own fuse at the fuse box? If so what rating is it?
 
You would need to replace the whole unit if you want a more powerful one and check your wiring is up to it. We normally have quite heated :)grin:) debates on wiring ratings whenever showers and cookers are discussed so you may want to wait for one of the sparkies to come along. In the mean time do you know if it has its own fuse at the fuse box?
 
No debates from me Dave.

Im just right all the time.

OP,

Shower 'size' all depends on the size of cable you have installed, the CPD, RCD protection, and the route the cable takes.

This is not something that can be easily sorted on a forum, regardless of what the armchair experts tell you.

If you dont want the hassle, then just replace the unit with an identically rated one, HOWEVER, nearly all manufacturers insist on the circuit supplying the shower be 30m RCD protected, which you may already have. A pic would be useful of your consumer unit at this point.
 
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i would suspect its scaled up and a replacement needed. i would just replace it with one rated the same as you have got?
 
Seems to cut out regardless of on how hot i have it , tried low and coldest temp and after 5 mins cuts out :( .. Water Pressure is fine

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

My best guess is it has scaled up and is overheating. I don't know if you can get replacement boiler units for these things but that may be your best option. Does it have its own fuse at the fuse box? If so what rating is it?

despite it being on cold .....

i would suspect its scaled up and a replacement needed. i would just replace it with one rated the same as you have got?

as above ......

would have been my guess as well , but it does not make sense :confused:
 
yes it has its own fuse in the fuse box as i only had a complete house re wire a few years back. Not sure how i can tell fuse rateing etc though?
 
look at the writing on the front of them , you should it relatively clearly , 16A 32A etc :)
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



despite it being on cold .....



as above ......

would have been my guess as well , but it does not make sense :confused:

What if it was heat related to pumping the water as opposed to heating it (2 different components)?
 
Most showers don't have a cold only setting, so the heating element would still be on, even on the lowest setting. Electric showers operating off the mains don't normally have a pump, just a heating element. That's the only thing that can overheat.
 
i think i will walk backwards slowly out of the thread and close the door after me , good luck OP ...............


:laugh:
 
You would need to replace the whole unit if you want a more powerful one and check your wiring is up to it. We normally have quite heated :)grin:) debates on wiring ratings whenever showers and cookers are discussed so you may want to wait for one of the sparkies to come along. In the mean time do you know if it has its own fuse at the fuse box?

I thought that that has been a requirement for many years.
 
It just isnt worth repairing them these days.

£70 for the heater tank, and that will need a few associated parts too, so you would be nearly at £100.

They only made these up to 8.5kW so if thats what you have, then i would replace with the same product if you have been happy with it.

As for the fuse, it wont be.

It should be an MCB (circuit breaker).

Printed on the front should be B32.

Plus, if your house was only rewired a few years ago, the CU should be labelled and you should have received installation certificates with a full set of test results etc.

Picture op?
 
paulyoung666 said:
look at the writing on the front of them , you should it relatively clearly , 16A 32A etc :)

Just says b32 unless I got to take it out to find out?
 
I have the 7.5 kw version was going to upgrade it to the 8.5 just wasn't sure if I could or not
 
If you have the 7.5 then stick with that.

As i said, its impossible to recommend anything in particular on a forum without seeing the installation.

If you are concerned, enlist the services of a competent electrician, even if you just bung him a few quid for advice.
 
I thought that that has been a requirement for many years.

Yep, I asked him if "he knew" what it was :smashin:

I'm joining jassco and Paul down the pub, if they'll have me :)
 

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