Dual AE AV15-X sealed subwoofers DIY Build

I'm surprised you hadn't already read that one Russell, oh well.

What crossover frequency are you using Nimby?
 
Ive come to the conclusion this is the long word thread.

Probably most definitely beyond me.

cheers

Graham
 
Ive come to the conclusion this is the long word thread.

Probably most definitely beyond me.
It's not a long word thread; Its one that uses all of the words made available by the English language.;)

Russell
 
@Nimby

I hadn't spent much time looking at the AE IB15 as it's obviously irrelevant to my requirements. I'm therefore seriously impressed that they're employing the same (time and material) expensive tech in the IB Series as they are in the AV Series. Presumably (now I look a little harder!) the extra expense involved with the AV drivers is purely down to the extra volume of materials used to provide the larger motors the AV Series require. We don't seem to get the nicely machined exposed alloy details on the the back of our drivers I note.:(

Russell
 
Spent a very productive day with Adam (AngelEyes) finally shaping up his cabinet and refining up my 106L cabinet. The point of interest raised during the day that was inspite of having panels cut to exactly the dimensions calculated by Google Sketchup, that we both found that certain panels were 2-3mm larger than they needed to be.

For instance, my sub is 550mm across which means the internal brace should be 550mm minus 18mm x2 for it's internal dimension. The internal brace was thus cut to 514mm (confirmed by a steel ruler) and yet when offering up the panels, there was a clear overlap of 2mm.:confused:

Luckily, the presence of a Festool track saw made it the work of moments to trim the extra couple of millimetres off, but I'm still a bit confused given that the panels were cut and latterly measured to be millimetre perfect.

Anyhow, here's the pictures from todays work. The awesome Festool Track Saw being operated by the extraordinarily hung-over Adam:

festool1.jpg


I promise you you WANT this £1500 tool:

festool2.jpg


It makes cutting straight lines so easy that even idiots like us can do it. I won't explain why, just Google it. Here's me pillar drilling the small cut outs in the internal baffle. Bear in mind that the camera is cruel and adds at least four stone to anybody pictured: :rolleyes:

pillardrill1.jpg


Okay, maybe I meant four pounds...:rolleyes:

Russell
 
Spent a very productive day with Adam (AngelEyes) finally shaping up his cabinet and refining up my 106L cabinet. The point of interest raised during the day that was inspite of having panels cut to exactly the dimensions calculated by Google Sketchup, that we both found that certain panels were 2-3mm larger than they needed to be.

For instance, my sub is 550mm across which means the internal brace should be 550mm minus 18mm x2 for it's internal dimension. The internal brace was thus cut to 514mm (confirmed by a steel ruler) and yet when offering up the panels, there was a clear overlap of 2mm.:confused:

Luckily, the presence of a Festool track saw made it the work of moments to trim the extra couple of millimetres off, but I'm still a bit confused given that the panels were cut and latterly measured to be millimetre perfect.



Russell
This is because your calculations assume a gap of zero between the panels. This is impossible as the laws of physics dictates a gap of zero means there is no gap. The couple of mil you gain is simply the space between panels, which is further increased by imperfections in the surface of the materials themselves.

Computers are good, but you have to factor in the fact they work certain things out in perfect terms, and seldom in life is anything perfect, even miss Lima :(.

I regularly find that working in the real world means working of the cuff a little.
 
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:D, well I wouldnt think about things that much myself.

Can I ask, why the volume/size increase?
 
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It does make the job alot easier when you have all the fancy tools.

cheers
graham
 
These photos are a little out of sync as I was under the impression I had deleted them, anyway these are from a couple of weeks ago when we started on Russell's 'rough' box. The infamous Festool track saw, Russell's Router and in the background a biscuit jointer, yet to be used in anger.

4041587241_cff276b0c8_o.jpg



The woodmaster himself! We learnt a lot from this early build, mostly how not to do things but it was well worth the effort as the latest boxes really are spot on. Simple things like nailing down the baffle cut-out as well as securing the baffle itself during routing helps prevent any movement when you finally cut through the final piece.

4042333578_e6d2f1a499_o.jpg



It was a real struggle lining the baffle and end piece up because we measured and cut them seperately. For the next ones we plan to centre drill through both pieces, so the circles will exactly line up. We even discussed gluing the two pieces before making the cuts but are not quite convinced it is necessay. You live you learn :rolleyes:

The observant among you will note the proximity of a forklift truck, having moved up to 26mm MDF, this may become quite useful once my box is finished. I can't help thinking Graham could do with it more than me though ;)

4042333808_ee0ffef2ea_o.jpg



It was surprisingly fiddly to glue and assemble the pieces and keep everything located correctly. I am probably going to use biscuit joints to make this process much easier. It is another job but will add to the strength and make the gluing together a bit easier. I also think we learnt some lessons about the amount of glue required!

4041587883_d60461343c_o.jpg



I quite enjoyed watching this part and trying to work out how Russell got so much glue on his face, worth another shot methinks :D

4041588093_600371b783_o.jpg



Kudos to Russell for going first, someone had to do it and we both learned loads. It might seem wasteful financially to build a 'rough' test box but the lessons were invaluable and have given us greater confidence to move forward with the other boxes.

I think we may well build several versions each to test performance as well as aesthetics. It does help having a skilled professional a few yards away who is only too happy to offer advice.

Hopefully we will get another crack on Wednesday?

Adam
 
Looking good chaps. That saw is a thing of beauty :thumbsup:

Dave
 
God how did you get that bond and seal so neat. My box looks like someone had sneezed inside it. But then again I have never done this before.

cheers

Graham
 
God how did you get that bond and seal so neat. My box looks like someone had sneezed inside it. But then again I have never done this before.

cheers

Graham

Dont snip the nozzle tips, just use them as they come. You then apply a bead along the edge you wish to fix. Any excess will ooze out and can be wiped neat or away. Then just put a bead in the corner of the fixed side and use your finger to smooth it in. It's not super neat stuff to work with anyway, but thats about as good a way as any to do it in my experience.
 
Dan,

Maybe next time then for me. Its a good job you don't see the inside eh!

Im on my last tube of bond and seal. God I hope I have enough.

cheers

Graham
 
It's not super neat stuff to work with anyway.
You don't say!:eek:

I did snip the nozzle, but used super skill to apply it ultra neatly. Or, the pictures just don't show the state I got in; You choose.:D

As Adam and I are keen to point out, the 65L box incorporated the results of several learning curves, the 'glue' being the final one. On the 115L box, I will apply a thinner bead along the inside edge to be bonded so any excess squeezes out on the inside. As you said Dan, this stuff is mega tough and you just don't need litres of the stuff squishing around the place.

Russell
 

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