Drayton wiser

Treetops77

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Hi,
After a bit of advice.
Trying to install a Drayton wiser kit, thought it would be as simple as removing the old (Drayton lp552) and installing the wiser hub. Wrong haha

So the hub lights up and connects with my phone/app all fine. It's just that it doesn't trigger the boiler, now I've set my 2 current thermostats (Drayton RTS1) to max and the boiler display just reads - 'Timer or room stat off'
I've attached a photo of the backplate for the hub.
The instructions mention something about linking L to 1 on the backplate but I was unsure if this applied to my setup
If this is all that needed then great but I just want to know before I try it and be disappointed or break something.
Thanks in advance
 

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Just to update this thread in case anyone has the same issues in future
I did put a wire link between L & 1 and also moved the black wire from position 4 to position 3
All now appears to be working as it should
 
Just to add, there are two types of programmer that fit the same standard backplate - one has 230v switched live outputs, and the other has volt-free relays (so may need links between the live and common terminals), so your first job when replacing an old programmer is to check the wiring diagram on the unit itself (or look up its datasheet) to check exactly how it is wired. Then you can match it to the smart device you are fitting (which more often than not has volt-free relay contacts for switching).

If none of what I’ve written makes sense then I’d suggest it’s probably better to use someone with more experience to install/wire it up as this is a very basic wiring arrangement, and you need to be able to clearly identify the wiring before fitting the new devices. You are also working with devices that may be damaged if you put a 230v feed where it’s not meant to be connected, and there are many arrangements where the switching needs to be low voltage too (direct connection to a boiler with low voltage heat demand rather than 230v), so being able to recognise exactly what you have and how it is wired needs some care. Just posting photos of the backplate is of little use as it does not show it cabling is for 239v or volt-free/low voltage switching.
 
Hi, thanks for the reply.
I did check the back of both programmers and studied them for a while but nothing was going in, came back to it the next day and it made more sense.
The way it was wired (without a link between L & Com) told me it was a 230v switched and my new kit was voltage free, this needing the link adding.

Have attached a couple of pics of programmers for reference
First Is the back of the LP522
And then the wiring for the Drayton programmer (single channel)

Thanks again for taking the time to leave a reply 👍
 

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