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DPL12 Sub Finished ....... at last !

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by Exeter Man, Jun 28, 2003.

  1. Exeter Man

    Exeter Man
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    Completed box without amp and driver:
     

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  2. Exeter Man

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    Box stuffed, amp and driver added:
     

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  3. Exeter Man

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    Finished sub with granite top:

    Driver is Adire DPL12 from design3dw3, and amp is DT300 from BK Electronics.

    It's taken me quite a while to complete, but pretty pleased with the results. MDF box is 51.5 litres (net), stuffed with the contents of two pillows to give an effective volume somewhere in the low to mid 60s (in theory !). Box is Maple veneered and varnished.

    Dimensions are to suit a particular corner in our living room, hence the tall/narrow proportions.

    Will fiddle around with settings for a couple of days before I report back on SQ.

    Regards
     

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  4. micb3rd

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    Look very nice, The DPL 12 is a good driver, how does it perform?

    How much was the Adireaudio DPL12?
     
  5. Exeter Man

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    micb3rd,

    Thanks.

    Will provide some feedback on performance in a couple of days.

    What I can say about the DPL12 is that it's very well put together, with a decent chassis, and some nice gold plated terminals. According to the guy at design3dw3 (who I don't think had seen one before), the chassis is an improvement over the Shiva.

    As for pricing, DPL12 was £159 plus about £12 for delivery. A bit more than the Shiva (£119) or Lab12 (£129), but based on the WinISD model, I thought it would be worth the extra. I understand that the price may increase to £169 when they get their online ordering up and running :(

    Regards
     
  6. GaryG

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    Well, what can I say? I'm so envious of you cabinet. What an absolute cracker of a finish, you've made a really good job of it. Welcome to the DIY club! I look forward to reading your impressions on it's performance.
     
  7. RichardH

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    Superb job matey!

    (Note to self - don't post pics of my projects in future, you'll only embarrass youself)
     
  8. Exeter Man

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    Thanks guys :blush:

    I think that the finished result has more to do with the amount of time you invest rather than level of skill. If you're going to be using something for years to come, I always think it's worth sticking on a few extra coats to improve the finish, rather than making do with the minimum just to complete it a couple of days earlier. Unfortunately, the missus doesn't see it that way, as she's not very sympathetic to me using the dining room as a workshop :D

    Looking forward to reporting back on performance. I want to download the test tones and Excel worksheet from Snapbug, but haven't been able to load their site this morning. Does anyone know what's happened ?

    Regards
     
  9. RichardH

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    Is it "proper" wood veneer? If so, where did you get it, and what were the costs like? I rather fancy an oak finish for my sub to be (main speakers are oak).
    Using it as a table, doesn't your pint get rattled around a bit?
     
  10. Exeter Man

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    Richard,

    Yeah, it is 'real' Maple veneer.

    Got it from http://www.artveneers.co.uk/ , although ordered by phone, as their online ordering looks a bit ropey. I will Email you their price list.

    Maple veneer was 90p per square foot, plus VAT, plus delivery. Total all-in cost for mine was £30-£40 - can't quite remember correct amount.

    If you ring them, they can tell you the width and length of the veneer you want. Bear in mind that the widths are approximate - mine varied between 11" and 13" wide. Also, make sure you get consecutive sheets from the tree, as these can be mirrored on the larger panels, which I think looks better than random grain patterns.

    Where you are side jointing two pieces of veneer, overlap them and cut through both with a sharp Stanley knife to give a perfect joint. Tape them together using masking tape across and along the joint on the exposed side, and glue to the box as one piece.

    As for the type of glue, there are traditional options, but i've only tried PVA and Evostick Timebond (contact adhesive). PVA is strong, but unless you've got high clamping force over the entire area, it will tend to swell the veneer, and potentially wrinkle it in some places. Personally, i'd recommend contact adhesive - ensuring a good contact by using a small nylon roller over the full contact area.

    Spilling my pint - now there's a problem :( Think I might just need to drink it quicker ;)

    Sorry to go-on, but hope this helps.

    Regards
     
  11. RichardH

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    Thanks for that, Martin - rather tempting! How easy is it to finish the corners (i.e. the sharp 90 degree edges)?

    I'm still at the plotting stage, though, so considering veneers is rather premature!
     
  12. Exeter Man

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    Richard,

    Oversize the veneer by a few mm all round, let the glue cure for 24hrs, and trim slowly using a flush trimming bit in a router. Have also trimmed using a Stanley knife/block plane and sandpaper, but flush trimming bit is your best bet.

    See link for typical flush trimming bit:

    http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=95109&id=10221

    Regards
     
  13. IronGiant

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    Very nice job, I think everyone would agree that your maple finish looks a fair bit nicer than my glue stained MDF :D

    Dave
     
  14. Exeter Man

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    Regmarch,

    I can assure you that there are plenty of glue stains (and even a bit of filler) on the MDF under that veneer !

    Regards
     
  15. IronGiant

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    Just out of interest, how much was that piece of granite?
    Dave
     
  16. Exeter Man

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    Regmarch,

    Granite was a bit extravagant i'm afraid - about £100 for 600x400x30mm, polished and radiused on all four edges.

    Tried a few different suppliers, and cost was fairly similar everywhere. Price does vary a bit depending on what colour/pattern you want, but I think most of the money is in polishing the edges.

    A much cheaper option would be slate. I've seen it locally at about £30 for a piece that size and thickness, although you'd need to tidy-up the sawn edges a bit.

    Regards
     
  17. RichardH

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    What about something interesting from an architectural salvage place - you might get some nice bits of granite, slate or other stone - even a nice thick slab of hardwood might look good (though I guess the stone solution is intended to up the weight, which the hardwood wouldn't so much).
     
  18. IronGiant

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    Hmmm, I guessed it might be as much as that, pity. I'll scout around and see what I can find.

    Dave
     
  19. Exeter Man

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    Our local salvage yard does have marble and granite, but this would still need to be cut to size and tidied around the edges.

    Regards
     
  20. Exeter Man

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    Thought I ought to post some initial thoughts on how the sub is sounding.

    This is my first sub, so unfortunately I haven't got anything to compare it with.

    Spent the last few nights running intro to Ice Age (Scrat), first 25mins of Saving Private Ryan, and Womping Willow/Quiddich chapters from Chamber of Secrets. Making the entire room vibrate hasn't been too difficult, but being realistic, i've had the sub level set too high. Tonight i've dropped the sub level down a bit and also (crucially) set my front speakers to small. Now everything's much more integrated, and you don't really know the sub is there until you need to. Setting the front speakers to small on my Marantz SR6300 hasn't affected the really low stuff (which was already great), but has added some extra slam which was lacking when set to large.

    Music-wise, Moby, Incubus, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Massive Attack, Kosheen and White Stripes have all been played. Sub has underpinned all of these very nicely, and reassuringly they seem to be lacking when you turn it off. Probably ought to drop the sub level a fraction more, but I am taking my time to find a level that works for music AND movies.

    Initially tried to setup using Avia and SPL meter. AVIA did a good job of setting-up my 5.0 system and TV, but for sub i've found that my ears are better.

    DT300 is currently set to provide a 6dB boost at 20hz, and test tones show that response is flattish between 20hz and 30hz. Room sends response a bit mental between 35hz and 65hz. Wish I hadn't checked this now, as i'm very happy with the sound, but knowing this is going to bug me until I crack and buy a BFD :mad:

    Will fiddle with bass compensation settings next week and report back with more findings.

    Regards
     

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