Or with your X990R did you not have to do much of anything compared to your base calibration for HDR?
With the x990 I have two options:
Option 1:
I have custom curves made by ChadB (normal and Bright). with either of these curves, the only adjustment I make is to the Master Contrast setting. It is normally set at +2, I can run it to +12 to before I start to see any clipping of highlights. All other settings stay as HDR10, Color Profile (BT2020), Color Temp (6500K, 7500K or High Bright), Master Brightness +2, Color =0, Tint =0.
It’s worth noting, for some movies which have MaxCLL below 1000 nits, (like BR2049) you can push Master Contrast or Picture Tone even further, so it’s not a bad idea to use the white clipping pattern to have a setup which resolves 660 or 668 (500-600 nits). This makes a big difference with a film like BR2049 which is mastered at a 500 nit MaxCLL?
Option 2:
I have also translated those Chad curves as best I can into ST2084 settings on the x990. And they are:
1 - My Favorite – Like ChadB Bright curve
Gamma - ST.2084
Picture Tone = +11 (dial back to restore lost highlights)
Dark Level = +5
Bright Level = -7
2 - Like ChadB Normal Curve
Gamma - ST.2084
Picture Tone = +6
Dark Level = +5
Bright Level = -6
Note these settings are for HDR10. With DV LLDV DTM, like what I noted above with the Chad Curves, I can increase Master Contrast to +12 before clipping white highlights. The alternative to increasing Master Contrast, is increasing the Picture Tone setting. In either case, I recommend using an HDR10 white clipping test pattern to make changes that resolve 712, the bar just below the 1000 nits value on the test pattern.
Again, it’s worth noting, for some movies which have MaxCLL below 1000 nits, (like BR2049) you can push Master Contrast or Picture Tone even further, so it’s not a bad idea to use the white clipping pattern to have a setup which resolves 660 or 668 (500-600 nits). This makes a big difference with a film like BR2049 which is mastered at a 500 nit MaxCLL?
Regarding Color… I used a blue filter with the HDR10 SMPTE color bark and Color (saturation) = 0 was correct. Although I’m told the blue filter test can no longer be trusted. That said, Color = 0 still looks right to me.
I’ll check what switching out the BT2020 filter does. I assume the more narrow color gamut is going to look like dialing back saturation quite a bit.