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DIY Tab Tensioning

50send

Standard Member
Hi
I've come up with a DIY tab tensioning system which worked really well for me and has removed a large "V" wave from my Hitachi branded 2m 16:9 pulldown screen.
What I did, was to bore two small holes in either end of the roller casing in a vertical line with the screen fabric, avoiding the roller by drilling below it.
I then drilled two small holes in either end of the pull down bar through the plastic end caps, again in line with the screen fabric.
The roller casing on my screen is about 70mm longer than my screen on either side but the pull down bar is only 20mm longer on either side so I used eyebolts through the holes in the pull down bar to give me 70mm of projection to match with the casing above.
Next I threaded nylon cord through the casing holes, Knotted on the inside of the casing on either side and dropped the two cords through the eyebolts. Next I fitted eight self adhesive (4 on the front and 4 on the back) heavy duty velcro (eye)pads approximately 20mm x 20mm wide onto the black border of my screen, centred to divide the screen into three equal portions vertically. Next I got 5mm smooth plastic tube which I cut into four sleeves for the cord to pass through approximately 25 mm long.
I then wrapped the 4 sleeves with velcro (eye).
Finally cut the (hook) velcro into 4 strips about 3 inches long which I attached to the screen pads at the front , put the sleeves on the strips after threading the cords through them, then wrap the end of the strips around the screen onto the back pads, tying the ends of the 2 cords onto 2 heavy Knitting machine weights. You should then have the two cords coming down either side sliding freely through their sleeves,wider at the top pinching in vertically at two velcro strips on either side,then flaring back out through their eyebolts. To pull out stubborn waves try more weight.
Get in touch if you need clarification of any points.
Cheers !
Jim
 

50send

Standard Member
Hi
A couple of pics for you.
You could fit eyebolts to the roller case or the ceiling on either side and longer ones to the pull down bar
if you wanted more of a 'V' at either side, this would allow you to fit more tabs , say maybe 5 per side, the only essential is to keep the 'V' shape on either side as this provides the tension as the cord tries to pull itself straight.
I use .75 kg per side but the weight is only limited by the strength of the screen fixings or eyebolt to ceiling/wall fixings.
Jim
 

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spooney

Novice Member
Simple and smart :)
 

50send

Standard Member
I spotted these clamps on Ebay and I've ordered a set to replace the velcro.
I'm going to paint them black and see if they are quicker to remove and refit.
I'll update when I get them.
Jim
 

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P

pagz

Guest
Hi. I like your idea. Can you post a pic of the whole setup. I am also dealing with these waves on the screen and would like to remedy it. thanks.
 

Donali

Active Member
:hiya: Great idea. What do you do when you retract the screen? Do you remove the tabs or just the string? If you retract the screen is there anything left attached and does it roll up OK?

Probably silly questions, but I do like your idea. It would be great to apply the idea to an electric screen. Has anybody done this?
 

50send

Standard Member
Hi
Been working away from home so here's an belated
update. The screen is easily rolled up by unhooking the weights
(I'm using little chrome carabiniers now) Undoing the four
Velcro tabs, pull the 2 cords through the lower eye bolts, then
roll up the screen, swinging both cords up
behind the roller, on to 2 tabs of Velcro on the wall or base
of the roller case, keeping things tidy.
Cheers
Jim
 

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cyberheater

Well-known Member
Genius. Best diy screen thread i've ever seen. Thanks.

I'm going to do this to my setup this weekend. I'll post piccies when i'm done.
 

Sporran

Novice Member
id be interested in some close ups of how you are securing the velco to the screen, if poss :)
 

cyberheater

Well-known Member
So inspired by this thread. I whipped up to homebase which shuts at 9.00pm (it's 8.05pm now) and got my bits.

And it's done the job. Fantastic. Now really flat. This has saved me the price of a new screen.

I'm gonna have to tidy my setup up over the next couple of days and find better alternatives to the weights i'm using and then i'll post some piccies.
 

50send

Standard Member
I've put my weights into little silver coloured cloth CD cases now . Looks much tidier and stops the weights marking the wall. Included a pic of one of the tabs undone. (should have rotated it clockwise before posting !)
Glad I've helped.
Cheers !
 

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cyberheater

Well-known Member
It's all a bit temporary (I need to find something better for the weights) but here you go.





 

50send

Standard Member
Hi Cyberheater!
I think you've put your velcro around your screen adhesive side in (Sorry, if i'm mistaken). Try putting the velcro tabs with the soft(eye)face out adhesive in, on the edge of your screen flush with the edge of the black border and repeat that on the back (see pic in previous post).
Then put the harder(hook)velcro strip, sticky side down onto a black bin bag which will stick fast to it. Cut around it and you will have a strip of (hook) velcro with a non sticky back. Use this to wrap around the cord and it will be easy to just pull the tab(s) off when you're rolling up your screen.
Sleeves for the cords help to make the weights slide more freely, I've left info about them in a previous post.
Hope this helps.
Cheers !
 

Baggy

Well-known Member
Well you guys gave me an idea.
I didn't have any problems with waves or ripples but had edge curl that was bad enough to affect the white area as well as the black border.

I was thinking of buying a new screen but after trying your method, I can put that off for a while.

As my screen is in an alcove I changed your method to suit my circumstance.
I didn't have any plastic pipe but had some microbore copper pipe which I cut into appropiate lengths.
As I didn't have any weights I used some net curtain cord which gives sufficient tension when stretched.

It only takes a couple of minutes to set up and when not in use the cord goes between hooks either side of the screen out of the way.

I think in total it cost something like £3, a definate bargain.

Cheers
 

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cyberheater

Well-known Member
I know it looks like that mate but actually the outside tabs are double sided so there is no adhesive on the inside.

Thanks for the comments though. :smashin:

Hi Cyberheater!
I think you've put your velcro around your screen adhesive side in (Sorry, if i'm mistaken). Try putting the velcro tabs with the soft(eye)face out adhesive in, on the edge of your screen flush with the edge of the black border and repeat that on the back (see pic in previous post).
Then put the harder(hook)velcro strip, sticky side down onto a black bin bag which will stick fast to it. Cut around it and you will have a strip of (hook) velcro with a non sticky back. Use this to wrap around the cord and it will be easy to just pull the tab(s) off when you're rolling up your screen.
Sleeves for the cords help to make the weights slide more freely, I've left info about them in a previous post.
Hope this helps.
Cheers !
 

cyberheater

Well-known Member
That looks pretty good. I've been wondering about using a cord with a bit of elasticity in a similar manner as yours. I need to think about it a bit more.

Well you guys gave me an idea.
I didn't have any problems with waves or ripples but had edge curl that was bad enough to affect the white area as well as the black border.

I was thinking of buying a new screen but after trying your method, I can put that off for a while.

As my screen is in an alcove I changed your method to suit my circumstance.
I didn't have any plastic pipe but had some microbore copper pipe which I cut into appropiate lengths.
As I didn't have any weights I used some net curtain cord which gives sufficient tension when stretched.

It only takes a couple of minutes to set up and when not in use the cord goes between hooks either side of the screen out of the way.

I think in total it cost something like £3, a definate bargain.

Cheers
 
J

JohnnyKimble

Guest
Fantastic info 50send, thanks. This is without doubt the most valuable info i've found for removing ripples/wave/curls from the screen.

I spent £350 on a DaLite manual pulldown screen and after about 2 months I was devestated to notice the awful effect you get when you've got V waves and a panning shot.

Of course, it was only then that it occurred to me how stupid I was to place the screen above a radiator :mad:

The only solution I noticed that appeared useful was one that suggested the waves could be caused by the glue attaching the screen material to the bottom bar wearing off in places, hence causing the waves. Never got round to trying that solution out, but I'm definitely going to give that idea of yours a go when I pluck up the courage...

Thanks
JK
 

50send

Standard Member
Hi
I'm working on a new idea for an electric/manual screen using extra weight in the bottom bar and fine black stretchy nylon cord through loops sewn (adhesive was too bulky and caused bumps in the rolled up screen) through the black borders of the screen in the vertically concave shape on either side.
I'll post some pics if I can get it to work as well as I hope it will.
 
J

JohnnyKimble

Guest
Just thought I'd mention a trick I tried tonight for removing V waves. I spotted this after searching the net, but can't remember the site, so the idea is not my own...

It is very simple so you might want to give it a go before going down the DIY route. Now, I've only just tried this tonight, so I don't know if there are any long term adverse effects, but I'll report back if there are.

Extend the screen as far as it will go. My screen has about a 1 foot 'drop' area of black material at the very top that remains rolled up when I'm watching a film. If you have the same area, try putting a sheet (or a few) of A4 paper up into the centre (try to get it as centre as possible) of this black area and then roll the screen up to the normal viewing position. The paper will wrap round the roller with the material and should be out of sight.

That's it! That was enough to almost eliminate my substantial V-waves.

Worth trying I think!

Images here: http://picasaweb.google.com/andrewcaruth/Waves?authkey=9rZJe7zV1ns

The last 2 images are of the 'fixed' screen.
 

50send

Standard Member
Hi All
I've tried various methods of getting rid of the weights.
I'm trying to make the tensioning self contained so all you have to do is lower the screen eg: no hooks, velcro or extraneous bits to fiddle with.
Tried stretchy black cord and thin 'bungy' cord with sewn loops to a ballasted pull down bar but I have to admit defeat.
The principle was great but there were too many problems ( that's why tab tensioned screens are so pricey of course !)
So I'm sticking with the old velcro/weights idea from the very start of this thread as - IT WORKS !
Cheers
Jim
P.S. Tried the paper (previous post by JohnnyKimble) but no result in my case.
 

jkharmer

Active Member
Can I just ask which waves do the tab tensioning remove? Ones which are caused from top to bottom, or left to right? I do not have a screen yet, but will soon. Just want to know whether a tab tensioned screen is worth it or not? I suppose I can get a non-tab tensioned one for around the £200 mark, and tab tensioned for 3 or 4 times that. Are the weights really a substitute for proper tab tensioning?

Thanks, James
 
J

JohnnyKimble

Guest
As far as I know, a tab tensioned screen should stay perfectly flat, free of waves in any direction.

BTW, have you seen any tab tensioned screens for £800? That seems very cheap. I always thought they were well over £1000.
 

jkharmer

Active Member
Look on eBay for grandview - sold by HCSV. Also, if you are feeling lucky, you can import a saaria screen from the USA for around the £500 mark. I know of a couple of people who are very pleased, but a slightly more risky option. I am in the position that I need a long drop, so will have to get something made up to my requirements on the drop. I was then wondering whether I could then apply a tab tensioning system myself. Surely it would be possible to run some sort of elasticated cording down the sides which are encased in a sewn in fabric holder (sewn into the reverse of the black side borders) and then terminating them at the bottom, using the bottom bar to support it.

Any ideas 50Send??

James
 

NAI

Active Member
Glad I found this thread. I was worried about getting an untensioned screen until I saw this simple and easy method of self tabbing.

:thumbsup: 50send you are indeed a legend.

Hopefully I wont have to use this method for at least a year...
 

50send

Standard Member
Given up the screen and gone for a lining paper and painted wall.
Used a paint mix from the forum and am delighted with the results and now use the projector (Hitachi pjtx 300) as my full time tv.
Cheers !
Jim
 

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