brunation
Distinguished Member
Buy a nail puller!
That floor board appears to have nails in the middle - you need to go over every board and remove those first.This is what I am up against
On the bright side those would never squeakThis is what I am up against
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On the bright side those would never squeak
I still call that groove side the groove where the secret nails are
lifting hardwood boards is a bit easier as you get a bit more lift before they break. I have found the only way is gentle levering where of alongside the nails are. Two levers can help too - one each side of the secret nails. Once those are moving work along those along the length of the board and don’t head to the face nails too soon. Get the beard up along it’s length and then work the levers back towards the face nails.
I’ve always had a proportion that broke so if you want to save the boards more time and maybe another pair of hands also levering may help. There may be a trick to it other than above but I never found it
is that just you it calls it the groove side. I googled it to make sure it says the single bit that sticks out is the tongue. But hey-go as long as we are talking about the same thing it does not matter.
anyone this is me done for the day:
View attachment 1261374View attachment 1261375
left the last 2 boards as it was 11pm and thought if I lift that board and burst a pipe at this time of night as tired as I am, I will not be happy. The other board I need to cut at the door with multi tool which, according to my wife, is to noisy for 11pm at night...
So along with those 2 boards I still need to remove the nails for about 2/3 of the boards lifted and this is what I think is useable. Just out of shot there are about half a dozen boards with nails i them that are unusable along with a number of small crappy boards that are already at front door awaiting a trip to the tip:
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So I think I managed to salvage about 2/3 of the overall floor.... hopefully it will be enough for the 2nd bedroom plus additional patch work that will no doubt be needed for the landing and hallway downstairs.
It’s weird in our house there is a false floor at half the height of the joists that is then filled both rubble that is hard set... it’s very odd. If you see where I have dug out the Hearth, I think, that is the real depth before all the filling happened.
my bathroom floor was the same when I lifted those boards.
It’s weird in our house there is a false floor at half the height of the joists that is then filled both rubble that is hard set... it’s very odd. If you see where I have dug out the Hearth, I think, that is the real depth before all the filling happened.
my bathroom floor was the same when I lifted those boards.
Hey guys I was looking at floor clamps and the clamps one of you kind people suggested while they look good they are expensive.
I have therefore got 3 options:
1) Buy them and suck it up on the cost front.
2) Rent them for a weekend / week.
3) Buy a cheaper option like these:
Magnusson Flooring Clamp 4m - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Ensures a tight fit when laying planks. Suitable for glued or nailed wood flooring. Working length of 4m. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.www.screwfix.com
Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on option 3 vs option 1 or 2?
I was going to suggest that but for many there isn’t enough space under doors etc. raising the skirting boards is easy as they are off anyway but sorting doors out is a pain. Very doable of course - jambs etc relatively easy as well but taking every door off and trimming 18mm off, making good and rehanging seems too much effort., then lay 18mm OSB board. I then lay T&G flooring over the top of the OSB board.
Don’t see why not - it can be used in cavities in walls. Just check if covering electric cables is ok but otherwise it is insulation and you already have itOne other question.
I have a shed load of Rockwool up in my loft (still in packaging).what I have is varied between 100mm &150mm thickness but it has multiple layers to it.
Can I use Rockwool under the floor?
Not sure if it has to be the boards I see everyone using or if Rockwool is equally good enough.
Basically he has repeated everything i suggested to you what to do
this maybe the case but I am still not sure how this method works. Inbetween other DIY duties this weekend I have been googling this and trying to find info on it is not easy.
See if your can modify that on joists. Shares the difference well.
I don’t tend to watch videos So I’m not sure why 400mm either. I watched that though and I think all they did was measure 400mm from the wall twice giving a chalk line 400mm form the wall and parallel with it? That didn’t seem to be to deal with getting the boards “straight” - merely parallel with one wall?They measure 400mm from the wall at each end. - why 400mm?