diy screen job advice

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by fatrich, Jun 24, 2002.

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  1. fatrich

    fatrich
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    hi everyone
    at the moment i have a 6ft electric owl 4:3 i have enquired about upgrading it to something like a stewart but after looking at funds decided against it (just had the a1se sent away for the upgrade) so i think i am going to have a go at building my own.I have a few questions and would be greatful if someone could point me in the right direction.

    i will need to source screen material preferabley with a 1.3 gain, black border (velvet) timber constructed frame, fixing brackets ect.

    Any construction tips and techniques would be greatfully recieved and places to source the materials.

    Forgot to mention i am looking to construct a 6ft widescreen 16:9 dimentions 200x119 (measurements taken from a stewart studiotek fixed screen with velvet border)

    thank you

    richard
     
  2. meep

    meep
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    Richard,

    You're in luck! I just finished building my DIY screen this weekend.

    You can find full details, links, pictures etc. at my Home Theatre website (click on the link at the bottom of this message.)

    If you want to save even more money, go to your local fabric shop and get a sample of "black out material". This is a white canvas like material that you can streatch over a frame. It should be about £10 per meter.

    I got a sample and was surprised at how well it performed. (Not nearly as good as the dedicited harkness hall screen material I eventually used though!!)

    definately a rewarding and worthwhile endevour!

    Peter
     
  3. fatrich

    fatrich
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    Meep
    sorry for not responding thyanks very much for the info, got all my bits and bats bar the velvet to construct the frame, i feel fairly confident about it only stumbling block may be stetching the material over the frame
    let u know how i get on

    regards
    richard
     
  4. meep

    meep
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    Richard,

    re streatching, just follow the link on canvas streatching from that DIY article mentioned on my site. Be sure you have figured out in advance what you're using to attach (staples, tacks etc.)

    having help is useful

    Good luck

    Peter
     
  5. fatrich

    fatrich
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    Pete
    i have bought a heavy duty staple gun today, ive been on the stewart site just to get an idea of sizes, i want a 6ft widescreen and my pj is a crt bg808 but dont know wether to build a 16:9 (1.78 aspect ratio) or a 1.85 screen which is the best to avoid tube burn or is it not an issue on these sizes unless it wa 2.35.

    any advice would be greatful.When u stretched your material over your frame did u start in the middle for all 4 sidesand then work your way to the edges whilst pulling tight by hand at the same time?

    cheers pete


    richard
     
  6. Edgeyboy

    Edgeyboy
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    Hi Richard

    Make it as a 1.78 aspect ratio.

    When folding the velvet over, watch out for sags in the fabric. Tuck the corners in well around the mitres.

    You could drill small pilot holes for the metal plates on the back of the wood first to make life easier after the wood has been covered with the velvet.

    Then cover the wood with the velvet and fix the frame together.

    Make sure it is true and the corners are true right angles. Measure between the corners diagonally to check this.

    Stretch the screen fabric over and staple it from behind,

    Have fun !

    Regards
     
  7. GaryG

    GaryG
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    I have a BG808 and use a 2.35:1 screen (84" x 35" Da-Lite High Power Cinema Contour) and have no problems with tube burn.
     
  8. meep

    meep
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    Richard
    I made my screen 16:9. It appeared to be a good compomise between 4:3 and wider ratios.

    Most everything I watch ends up placing black bars anyway as mot DVDs are 1.85 or higher.

    I'm quite happy to let dscaler streach TV signal to full 16:9 ratio. I'm used to my Sony widescreen doing that and have become accustomed to fatter people.

    I also did my projector placement by raster/image size on crts rather than specified pj placement distance. This allowed me use more of the crt and thus get better definition. I'll update my site on this technique soon but in principle;

    I set the pj up as per pjcalc (sony software for pj distance calc.) Then, looking into the lenses, I used the rgb size and shift controls to adjust the raster and image to use more of the CRT (taking care no to go too close to the edges!). Then I physically moved the projector closer to the screen (about 8 inches in my case) until the image just overshot the scrren edges. Then regular convergence from there.

    Regarding the screen, the instructions noted are very good. Yes, start with tacking the center of each side. You should get a diamond crease in the fabric. Place temporary tacks (not staples!) in each of the four corners. Then procede out from each center two tacks at a time.

    i.e. tack one to the left and right of the top edge center, then one left and right oif the bottom edge, one top and bottom of center on the left and right edges. Then go back to the top and do two more. This involves a lot of running around the screen but by the time you rach each of the corners, you have a perfectly tensioned screen.

    Note that my screen, though perfectly "square", had little torsional rigidy. That is to say, it flexes quite a bit backwards and forwards. Take great care in handling and mounting. Certainly a job for two peple.

    Good luck

    Peter
     
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