DIY mounting question

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by richard plumb, Dec 11, 2002.

  1. richard plumb

    richard plumb
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    Hi

    I'm going to try the 'two bits of MDF and pole' solution, but have a couple of questions...

    I need M4 screws, but how are they fitted and what lengths are recommended? How do I arrange the nuts to best (a) protect the guts of the AE100 and (2) allow for adjustment if necessary?


    Also, what screws are needed to fix the central pole to the MDF, and the top plate to the joist? I assume wood screws, but what sort of size/length.


    Any other tips for a DIY idiot? Do I need to countersink the screws holding the central pole?
     
  2. nphnet

    nphnet
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    Take a look at my thread for mounting a Sanyo Z1 using reworked Panny Ae100 approach. Costs about £15 and it looks professional.
     
  3. Walter mitty

    Walter mitty
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    Hi,

    What I did was make a paper template of the holes position, then drilled the MDF.

    I bought extra M4 nuts and bolts and washers as when I placed them in position I used a lock nut to stop the bolt going too far into projector then a locknut either side of the mdf, therefore it`s important to purchase longish M4 bolts. You are then able to adjust the angle in all directions of the projector to help get it spot on the screen, by adjusting the locknuts either side of the MDF.........

    Re` the countersinking.........No because you can raise or lower the projector to any distance (subject to bolt lenth) below the MDF. ( The bolts go down from the top and the pj is under the MDF) I have about 3/4 inch gap.

    I think I used 2 1/2 inch wood screws
    Another tip.........Use No Nails to help the srcews and ensure the pole is squared at each end.


    hope this is clear and helps
     
  4. rhinoman

    rhinoman
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    I looked loads of places for a suitable "pole" and ended up with a pack of 4 table legs from ikea for £7, round or square silver or black, take your pick and then drill a hole with a round holesaw in the ceiling and screw the leg to the joist above.;)
     
  5. Walter mitty

    Walter mitty
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    Very nice, I used a round pole actually I think it`s handrail, it`s a bit neater than 2x2. Sprayed white it`s neat
     
  6. Dodgey

    Dodgey
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    Richard, I posted a complete description on this board a while ago regarding the two bits of MDF and a "pole" (I used a bit of 1 1/2 x 1/ 1/2 sqare) solution.

    Here is what I did:

    4mm bolts / screws - get from B&Q - don't worry, they don't sell ones that could go too far into the PJ after going through the MDF.

    For screwing the base and top into the main "pole" - I use 2 1/2 inch screws - they have a very "aggressive" thread - i.e. not tightly wound - I think they are meant for chipboard or something, they are always black for some reason. They hold wood REALLY tight, and because the thread is so deep and "wide" there is no chance of them letting go. I used 4 in the top (ceiling end) and 1 (yes, 1!) in the PJ end to it can be rotated. I used two, much longer wood screws for screwing the whole thing to the ceiling (I just made lots of little holes until I found a joist). I have dangled myself from this bracket!!

    Let me know if you need any pictures .

    And yes, the paper template method is the way to go...

    Oh, and yes, make doubly sure that the timber merchant knows you want the pole ends dead square. Mine were not - but it really does not matter once it is up, you only notice if you inspect it, it does take some of the adjustment out of your system though.

    One more thing - get up a step ladder and check the exact height you want the PJ, then get the "pole" cut to that length (allowing for the two pieces of MDF and the bolt gap), then another an inch shorter, and another an inch longer. (all my wood cost £6). That way you can chop and change if you have made a cock up. Don't forget the lens on the PJ is not central - I did and had to move the whole damn thing!!" - Don't lose sleep if your height is not spot on - that's where the adjustable bolts come in.
     
  7. richard plumb

    richard plumb
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    OK, so I'll put the screen up tonight and measure from ceiling to top of image, then work out how big the pole needs to be (do you use 18mm MDF?)

    Thanks for the help everyone and I'll keep my fingers crossed this weekend.
     
  8. Dodgey

    Dodgey
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    18mm will be fine
     
  9. rhinoman

    rhinoman
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    I used 18mm for my 1st tempory mount but 12mm for the final one, prefer the 12mm myself.:)
     
  10. Walter mitty

    Walter mitty
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    Yep......... I didn`t use too thick an MDF as it looks poor mines about 1/4inch I`m not sure in new money.

    You can make the pole any lenth really thats acceptable to get pic on screen without too much keystone ajustment, I`m lucky I don`t need any on my projector.

    What I did was measure the middle of screen and measure middle where I wanted pj and with the help of my brother held pj upside down and fired it up so I had a good idea how it was going to project.

    Mines bang on couldnt ask for better with no keystone adjustment.
     

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