Diy Help

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by has2mow, Feb 14, 2018.

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  1. has2mow

    has2mow
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    First question, I had a new bath fitted and it has basically just come away from the wall, the silicon adhesive just rubs of the bath and the wall.

    What adhesive should I use ?

    I also need to put it in level this time:facepalm:
     
  2. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    Clear Dow Corning 785

    Or Ever Build Forever Clear.

    Or Bal Clear sealant.

    Or CT1

    Usually you should have some bath brackets too which either fix above the bath by screwing into the bath batten on the underside.

    Or sometimes you get brackets underneath.

    Good practice would be to rest the bath edge on a batten. It will never move down then

    Bonding to the wall and a batten is belt and braces stuff
     
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  3. has2mow

    has2mow
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    Thank you Wahreo

    The amount of silicone he used is a joke, I have two brackets under the bath but they allow a lot of play so they do not hold it secure also the feet are mounted on rubbers so these allow for movement as well.

    Will get a few photos as soon as charge up the camera.

    Thank you again :thumbsup:
     
  4. Doug the D

    Doug the D
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    As used by Taylor Swift :rotfl:
     
  5. has2mow

    has2mow
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    Purchased some silicon, and re leveled the bath, my levels I am not sure about so used them as a dip gauge with water in the bath the tops level but the underside lip is all over the place.

    This is how little sealant in place by the marks on the wall, purchased some of what you suggested. DSCF1467.JPG
     
  6. has2mow

    has2mow
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    I also purchased some LVT click flooring very nice but tricky to install also added some skirting DSCF1468.JPG
     
  7. fragdude

    fragdude
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    I’m not great at diy, but shouldn’t the bath be closer to the wall, quite a distance to fill? [edit] just re read the post and you said it come away from wall hence gap.

    Also fill the bath before doing sealant, so the bath is at lowest before sealing.

    Like the flooring though, got a link to the product as want to do dining room

    Ta jas
     
  8. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    I’d get that wall scored with a blade and then bond it to the wall.

    Is that emulation on the wall?
     
  9. dannnielll

    dannnielll
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    It's a very common problem with plastic baths. In addition if the sealant i s put on while the bath is empty, the weight of water will distort the shape. Eventually I gave up and got a wide flexible pvc sealing strip iintended for bath surrounds. The name escapes me, but from one of the major bathroom companies. but it's in the shape of a L strip about 2 metres in length one side being bonded to the wall and the other end loose on the bathside. It means hat the bath can flex a bit, as it does , without breaking the seal. The sides are champered so that water hitting it will be encouraged to far into the bath..

    I looked it up. Homelux brand..
     
  10. has2mow

    has2mow
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    Quick-Step Livyn Select Oak Luxury Vinyl Tile | Luxury Vinyl Tiles | Carpetright
     
  11. has2mow

    has2mow
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    It is 3 week old plaster.
     
  12. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    Just prime with an APD or SBR primer and you’ll be fine.
     
  13. Deleted member 781788

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    If it keeps coming off the wall and you see a gap, it could well be that it is on loose ground!
    When you fill it with water and you go in, the weight causes it to sink in and then silicon comes off.
    Pay good attention to legs and where they sit.
    It is a good idea to put the legs/adjusters on pieces of 19mm plyboard, about 30x30 cm.
    They would spread the weight over a larger area.
     
  14. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    Check joist positions beneath your Floorboards/chipboard.

    This will tell you were to put some CLS under the Bath feet. CLS being some timber stud work.

    Just a bit of common sense. A small leg resting on a piece of chipboard flooring with no joist under it could end up in a ‘money pit’ style disaster. (Not quite but you get the idea)
     
  15. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    My floor is solid concrete, how do I check where the joists are? :devil:
     
  16. SteveCritten

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    Get the guy back and do it properly, as Waheo says there should be a batten and the legs screwed down. I usually then put a big bead of CT1 on the batten and level up and push to the wall then a silicon bead in the gap.
     
  17. has2mow

    has2mow
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    The floor is 1 inch T & G

    I popped in to tops tiles to see what liquid tanking they had, any advice please.
     
  18. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    Topps sell the Bal kit which is quite expensive.

    Even more so if you’re not trade.

    I tend to use the Mapei kit. An all in one kit including primer, tape and paste.

    Depending on who is cheaper, I’ll buy from either toolstation, Screwfix or Wickes.

    Wickes I get 10% off whatever I buy and often 15% off on Mondays.
     
  19. its_all_Greek

    its_all_Greek
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    Do you buy many Mondays then?

    :p
     
  20. has2mow

    has2mow
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    Thank you again, I got offered trade discount at tops as turned up in a van a look like I'm a builder, but I'm not :rotfl:
     
  21. has2mow

    has2mow
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    second question of my massive house refit, oh how I am wishing I never purchased it

    A small room of the kitchen single course of bricks I have just had to gut it walls and ceiling as nothing had any part on the electrics and its the last room to be rewired.

    I also have a soil pipe from the toilet and now the partition wall is gone the pipe is around 300mm from the wall .

    So my plan is to box the pie 300 high by 570 deep and the place the freezers and washing machine on top, I can not just box the pipe and stand things on the floor as the toilet door would not open, also with the single skin wall I was thinking of putting DPM up then fitting stud work to it and then boarding and skimming .

    Any thoughts on the above ?
     
  22. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    I’m no builder but what about dot and dabbing insulated plasterboard to your brick walls?

    Might be worth giving the tech team a call of the Insulated plaster board.

    I’m sure this subject came up recently and celotex or some other company was mentioned and I think I even called up a company and asked and they gave the all clear. I’ll have to do a forum search.
     
  23. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    Yes, celotex make a product which comprises of their insulation and plasterboard and can be direct bonded to walls with no cavity by dot and dabbing.

    Definitely worth giving them a call.

    I need to do exactly the same thing this year.
     
  24. has2mow

    has2mow
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    Thank you again fella, you have a wealth of knowledge.

    Looked into the cost of sheets and wow they are expensive, time saving tho against batterns and sheet.

    Found this whilst searching, may be of some use to you. PINKGRIP DRY FIX - Everbuild
     
  25. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    I’ve seen that before, never used it as I prefer my drywall adhesive. Because I have to get my walls really flat for tiling which requires whacking with a 2 metre straight edge to take out any dips or bows. If you look at the vid, the guy just pushes the board against the block.

    Funnily enough, a builder I know used a similar foam adhesive.

    I came to tile it and it was Bowier than a Ziggy stardust tribute act.
     
  26. has2mow

    has2mow
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    I needed that laugh today thanks.
     
  27. has2mow

    has2mow
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    Next question ( electrics)

    I am a fare way threw a rewire.

    I would like to control down lighters by remote I think my Meridian remote does RF but not sure.

    The kitchen needs to be 4 zones ( mood change colour lights)

    Bathroom 1 zone

    Lounge / Cinema wall lights , downlighters and some mini led's in the feature wall.

    I have found two systems but they only go to 4 zones each one is only colour change.

    Any help appreciated .
     
  28. has2mow

    has2mow
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    I had a go at dot and dab earlier, I think I will stick to nails a timbre:rotfl:
     
  29. has2mow

    has2mow
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    A little bump:)

    I can not fit dimmer swithches as I have got 4 gang switches and 3 way switches in some place, my spark has no suggestions and I still can't find a way round it, really hope you guys can help.
     
  30. clemmeroid

    clemmeroid
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    Your only way out is to find a spark that has suggestions. I fitted a dimmer switch myself years ago and cocked it up. When I switched on the dimmer switch the hall light came on
    when I switched off the hall light , the bedroom light came on. Luckily I knew a spark that rectified it , whilst watching him he said the reason why the dimmer switch didn't function
    was that they needed a strapper ie a connection of wire , between connections he
    put a sleeve of yellow sheeving on this interconnect , so you might need a strapper
    Sorry for the long winded answer but there is a work around but you need a competent sparks
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2018

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