Discreet living room cinema

I've decided to mount all the S4Ais on the wall. This gives an idea of their positioning vis-a-vis the ceiling speakers and MLP:

20210926_091620.jpg


Obviously with on-wall mounting, boundary interference can manifest. However they're so shallow that it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm going to build boxes to hide them, so they'll be fairly unobtrusive once that's done. With any luck, I'll have that all sorted by tonight so that I can finally recalibrate everything.:)
 
The boxes are all built and on the wall. I still need to paint the grilles, once I've bought a paint gun, but it's all starting to come together now.

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I only ran a quick calibration so I can't comment properly on the set up yet. But even so, it's sounding pretty damn good!

I played the John Wick club scene as a quick test and it sounded better than ever. I'm getting some serious tactile response now, presumably partly due to the new sub arrangement. It genuinely felt like I'd installed a Buttkicker.:D

One thing I'm 100% sure of is the 3677s are fantastic. I can't see myself ever going back to conventional speakers (unless space dictated it). I'm very much sold on high efficiency speakers with big woofers and compression drivers.
 
Looks really discreet considering the size of the speakers you have hidden.
Did the bump come out of the screen? I have just contacted Ricky for a quote, I might just go for a grey instead of ALR as I never watch with the lights on.
What are the ceiling fixings like for the screen and what is the control like, are there control boxes etc or is it built in?
 
Looks really discreet considering the size of the speakers you have hidden.
Did the bump come out of the screen? I have just contacted Ricky for a quote, I might just go for a grey instead of ALR as I never watch with the lights on.
What are the ceiling fixings like for the screen and what is the control like, are there control boxes etc or is it built in?
The bump has gotten a lot smaller, so I'm fairly sure it'll just disappear. I haven't tried a hairdryer yet seeing as it seems to be going on its own, and it's almost invisible anyway.

The ceiling fixings are great. There are two small brackets that attach to the ceiling. They then screw onto two points on the case, which can slide back and forth. That means you're not stuck with having to attach the screen to two specific fixed points on the ceiling, so you can find joists/avoid stuff (if that makes sense?).

1632751988450.png


Yes, there's a control box, which is separate to the screen. Mine does RF and trigger, but you can spec it however you want I think.

What size are you planning to go for?
 
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The bump has gotten a lot smaller, so I'm fairly sure it'll just disappear. I haven't tried a hairdryer yet seeing as it seems to be going on its own, and it's almost invisible anyway.

The ceiling fixings are great. There are two small brackets that attach to the ceiling. They then screw onto two points on the case, which can slide back and forth. That means you're not stuck with having to attach the screen to two specific fixed points on the ceiling, so you can find joists/avoid stuff (if that makes sense?).

View attachment 1577339

Yes, there's a control box, which is separate to the screen. Mine does RF and trigger, but you can spec it however you want I think.

What size are you planning to go for?
Looks a neat solution, I would be looking at a 110" diagonal 16:9 if I go borderless.
 
Looks a neat solution, I would be looking at a 110" diagonal 16:9 if I go borderless.
I'd certainly advocate borderless if you're going 16:9 and a grey or ALR screen, and watching mainly in the dark. The dark material creates quite an effective border in low light. Obviously it's not the same as black, but it's still pretty good. And there's so much content that isn't 16:9 the 'dynamic border' effect that a grey/ALR borderless offers is very useful.

That said, now that I've got a Lumagen incoming, I'm starting to think I may at some point go CIH and scope, possibly even with an anamorphic lens. Not for a while though ... I've spent enough money lately!
 
I prefer a border and normally shift scope to the bottom of the screen. You will be able to do that with a Lumagen without shifting. You could do CIH with the Lumagen and skip the anomorphic lens altogether.
The main reason for me going borderless is getting the biggest size I can. I might copy your masking solution.
 
That masking is absolutely excellent for critical viewing, so very much worth the investment of time etc.

Re the Lumagen shifting - yea, that's one of the big attractions for me. I'm forever messing about with lens shift etc., so having that automated would be brilliant.

I know what you mean about not needing the anamorphic lens. The main selling point of an A lens for me, aside from full use of pixels/removal of light spill, is the extra brightness for HDR. That's especially useful for a negative gain screen. However, I've probably used up a fair bit of domestic good will lately, so I doubt I'll be hanging a lens off the living room ceiling anytime soon!
 
Hmm, I'm tempted to use one pair as wides. Their design would be ideal for that.

With little bit of work, I could probably blend them in quite well...

View attachment 1575339
View attachment 1575344

That would leave me with no sides though.

I could run the rears in their dual drive, which means they'd receive both rear and side signals, and use reflections for the latter. But I'd probably want to add actual sides at some point. I could use my Revels, or JBL Arena 120s, but I'm not sure how well they'd blend.

Tempting...
Really love all the different textures in ur room.

I think doing a dedicated room is a bit difficult but creating a room like this takes real style, class and inspiraiton
 
The bump has gotten a lot smaller, so I'm fairly sure it'll just disappear. I haven't tried a hairdryer yet seeing as it seems to be going on its own, and it's almost invisible anyway.

The ceiling fixings are great. There are two small brackets that attach to the ceiling. They then screw onto two points on the case, which can slide back and forth. That means you're not stuck with having to attach the screen to two specific fixed points on the ceiling, so you can find joists/avoid stuff (if that makes sense?).

View attachment 1577339

Yes, there's a control box, which is separate to the screen. Mine does RF and trigger, but you can spec it however you want I think.

What size are you planning to go for?


Hi mate, do you use the trigger on ur react?

I'm trying to think of an easy painless way that the screen comes down when I turn on my Epson 9300.
 
Hi mate, do you use the trigger on ur react?

I'm trying to think of an easy painless way that the screen comes down when I turn on my Epson 9300.
The trigger is perfect for this if you can run a cable from screen to projector. The cable is really thin.
 
Really love all the different textures in ur room.

I think doing a dedicated room is a bit difficult but creating a room like this takes real style, class and inspiraiton
Thank you!
Hi mate, do you use the trigger on ur react?

I'm trying to think of an easy painless way that the screen comes down when I turn on my Epson 9300.
I haven't sorted that out yet, but I'm planning to this week. I've just been using RF, which is a bit of a faff.

Once that's done I plan to set up a Harmony activity linking with the lights, which are all Hue, as well as my other AV kit. I'll probably also link that with Alexa, if possible. The aim is to have one button/voice command which will turn everything on, drop the screen, and turn off all the lights exept the three spots behind the screen.
 
Thank you!

I haven't sorted that out yet, but I'm planning to this week. I've just been using RF, which is a bit of a faff.

Once that's done I plan to set up a Harmony activity linking with the lights, which are all Hue, as well as my other AV kit. I'll probably also link that with Alexa, if possible. The aim is to have one button/voice command which will turn everything on, drop the screen, and turn off all the lights exept the three spots behind the screen.
please let us know how u end up doing it cos I need a solution too. ideally need to remove at least one remote from the chain.
 
I used one of these connected to a smart plug: Amazon product ASIN B08QRWW89M
I had a siri scene that turned on the logitech activity and turned on the smart plug which in turn activated a 12v trigger on a power amp. It worked well.

Just make sure that the power supply has a 3.5mm jack.
 
I used one of these connected to a smart plug: Amazon product ASIN B08QRWW89M
I had a siri scene that turned on the logitech activity and turned on the smart plug which in turn activated a 12v trigger on a power amp. It worked well.

Just make sure that the power supply has a 3.5mm jack.

Awesome idea Conrad. I'll have to look into that. I was just going to drag a 12v trigger from the Epson to the Draper control box.

Do you know of any cool ideas in a way that I could automate 'hey siri turn on projector' and the projector screen would come down AND the epson 9300 would turn on?
 
Awesome idea Conrad. I'll have to look into that. I was just going to drag a 12v trigger from the Epson to the Draper control box.

Do you know of any cool ideas in a way that I could automate 'hey siri turn on projector' and the projector screen would come down AND the epson 9300 would turn on?
In my set-up, I had a Meross plug that controlled the 12v trigger. I run a pi on my network running Homebridge (although HOOBS would work as well I believe). That basically makes most things available as Homekit devices. My Meross plug and my harmony activities are all available in Apple Home so I have a scene which sets the lights, turns on the TV and amps, etc. No reason you couldn't do that with the trigger I listed.

You'd have a harmony activity that turns on the PJ and anything else, and then a scene that turns on the harmony activity and the plug.
 
Google just reminded me that '4 years ago today' I disassembled my old dedicated room:

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I've no idea how much equipment (and money) I've gone through since then, but it's a fair bit!
 
Which one is new 😳
 
Which one is new 😳

i say it is the Lumagen ?
Bingo!

I'm enjoying it a lot too. The improvement in image thanks to the 4242 and Gordon's handiwork is pretty special. It's at once quite subtle but also significant enough that I couldn't live without it now that I've got it. I can totally see why people never part with them.
 
All looking awesome mate.

Not sure I’d recommend an anamorphic lens though bud, for the cost difference I’d be looking at a better projector. You shouldn’t need the extra brightness for HDR now you’ve got the lumagen though (which is a complete game changer).
 

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