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DHS Slimline screen and phono adaptors

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by treecreeper, May 31, 2005.

  1. treecreeper

    treecreeper
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    I have a Screenplay 4805 set up in a blacked out room. It is currently projecting onto brownish flowery wallpaper :eek: at a distance of about 13 feet. I want to install a pulldown screen and I have two questions.

    1. The actual image size is about 225 * 126 cm; a few cm. more if I add the faintly visible dark border which the 4805 projects. This is very close to the viewable area on one of Slimline screens available from drhscreens.co.uk. (231 * 130 cm). Can anyone say anything for or against these screens. n.b. for 'domestic' reasons :nono: the casing has to be white.

    2. The picture size I have is maximum for the throw distance. To fit the image neatly onto the Slimline screen I will probably need to move the projector back a few inches....but there's a window in the way. A possible solution is to have the component cables entering sideways on instead of sticking out directly backwards. Is there such a thing as a right angled phono adaptor? Maplins have a phono plug with a wire lead at 90 degrees. I could solder something together based on this but it would hardly do justice to my Mark Grant cables. I need something high quality with a phono plug and socket set solidly at a right angle.
     
  2. alpha10

    alpha10
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    I can say that I have been very pleased with my DRH screen, and IMO at a reasonable price.

    When I painted my ceiling I just painted the case at the same time. Didn't bother priming or anything and the paint took really well.

    Cheers
     
  3. treecreeper

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    Thanks alpha10, that's all the moral support I need to go ahead...especially as I can't find any other manufacturer that does the 231cm. width (others are all 234, 244 etc). Showing soon....Star Wars without wallpaper flowers :clap:
     
  4. Crivens

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    Alpha10, I have the same screen (231x130 manual) and am having some problems with installing the wall brackets (one of them is not strong enough to support the weight for more than a few days use). My question is did you wall mount it, or ceiling mount it? If you ceiling mounted it, then do you just need to put one screw into each side, or do you need a secondary screw on each side to go into the eye socket bit? The wall mount, for example, has a place to screw into, but also a bit to stick into the eye socket.

    Oh, and treecreeper, the main housing is a light grey.

    Cheers
     
  5. treecreeper

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    Crivens, do you mean the thing falls off the wall after a few days? And when you say the bracket isn't strong enough do you mean there's a problem with the bracket, or a problem with your rawlplug or whatever you've used (i.e. fixing not deep enough)
     
  6. Papua

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    I have the drh 203 wide screen and it is quite a good screen. A friend has the same screen but with the high gain which is only any good if you can view straight on. I would recommend the drh screen.

    The eye holes on the screen are for screws that you put in the wall/ceiling first (one each side) and slide the screen onto these two screws. You then put two more screws through the other two holes to fix the screen to the wall/ceiling. You need to use four screws in total, with only two screws then I'm not surprised that the screen is falling down.

    I was concerned that the screen that turned up was grey as my friends one with high gain was white, but then his casing is a lot larger and a lot heavier. Since I put the screen up the grey is not intrusive and I'm not going to bother trying to paint it.

    I'm also running this with a 4805 (as is my friend with high gain version screen) and the picture quality is very good on both screens.
     
  7. Crivens

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    I did use 4 screws on the screen. Well sort of. The wall brackets have these fake screw things in them already that go in the eye holes. The problem with the brackets is the left bracket is above my window. Basically it is the only location apart from the ceiling. Anyhows I drilled into the walls, but above the window is a metal reinforced bit about a couple of inches or so into the wall. This caused a few problems, and what with the curtains getting in the way the hole became a little larger than required. This caused the rawplug to pull out of the wall when the projector screen was screwed into the bracket. I have used different techniques such as "Wet 'n Fix" (supposed to sort this sort of thing) and better rawplugs, but nothing is sorting it out. A builder recommended using Epoxy resin to fill the hole in, but pretty much no store knows what I'm talking about. I've tried Epoxy adhesive (Wickes thought it was the same thing), but it's like water. Although it really turns like glass after a while (supposed to be like carbon fibre or somesuch), which would be cool if I could fill the hole. Homebase told me to use Polyfiller (4 of the so called experts said this), even though I had reservations of it not being enough to support the weight. It doesn't.

    Anyway, I'm not sure I can fix to the ceiling as the right side of the screen will be right up against the wall, and I'm unsure about the ceiling at this point. I just need to sort out this *one* bracket. Hell, I even had it up fine for about a week before it started pulling the rawplug out of the hole.

    So any help would be good. Also, would a builder be the right person for fixing the damn thing, or should I be looking for something more specific on Yell?

    Cheers
     
  8. alpha10

    alpha10
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    Mine is fixed directly into the ceiling (drops down infront of my huge old CRT TV.

    None of my beams were in the right place so I have just used 4x medium-weight plasterboard fixings and it is very strong. Well my 2 1/2 year old has swung on it on a couple of occassions :eek:

    Cheers

    Mark.
     
  9. Papua

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    Hi Crivens, I didn't want to use the brackets direct to the wall as my screen goes over some curtains and is wider that the curtains. I didn't want the brackets showing so what I have done to put my screen up is to use two angle brackets that are bolted to the wall behind the curtains either side of the window. I have attached a 25mm deep piece of wood (also the length and width of the screen) to the underside of the brackets and then screwed the screen to the wood. I've was then looking at attaching either some material or other wood to finish it off and cover the screen casing, which I haven't done yet. Using this approach it wouldn't matter what colour the screen casing was and you could decorate however you wanted. (My wife want to put ornaments above it!). This approach may also be good for treekeeper to cover over his casing if he didn't like it. I just used it for hiding my brackets and moving the screen forward of my curtains.

    If you took this approach you could mount your 'extra' brackets anywhere and not worry about the hole left in your wall.

    If you want me to supply a photo of this I can take one and post here if you want.
     
  10. treecreeper

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    I thought I'd settled on the drh Slimline 231*130 on the grounds that no other manufacturer made that size, but going back to the site I've noticed the electric versions are the same size (should have guessed that :nono: ). I am tempted...but is there any real point having an electric screen or is it just 'luxury'? My last car had electric door mirrors. The car I now own has manual door mirrors. I haven't missed the electric ones at all. n.b. the electric screen (Slimline240) is £264 more than the manual.... make that £363 if you want remote control :eek:
     
  11. Papua

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    I thought of going for the electric version (and I've got electric mirrors on my car and use them). But it is a luxury and something I didn't think was worth the extra money, its not exactly difficult to pull the screen down and put it back when you've finished with it, it only takes a couple of seconds.

    The 4805 has got an output to drive the screen down on switch on, so if you'd like the automatic control and thought it worth the money then that would be the option that I would have liked to go for. I don't really see the need for the remote considering the 4805 can drive a screen directly.
     
  12. Crivens

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    With all this hassle with the wall brackets I wished I had got the electric version. Without all that yanking the manual screen (back up mainly) then I'm guessing it may have stayed on my wall ok. And the difference in price compared to the amount of tools I bought to fix things wouldn't have been too bad :)

    Saying that, thanks to builder originally saying it would be expensive to get them to do it rather than myself, I gave it a good go. Have now booked in an AV installer company who reckon it shouldn't cost more than about £85 to get the screen fixed (either to the wall or ceiling) *and* get my projector cables neatly away inside my walls. Just like a plumber who once told me I had learnt "an expensive lesson" in calling him out. Almost had a heart attack (thinking thousands) when he explained the heating problems I had been having was because of limescale build up in the water tank in the attic, and just required a quick couple of taps to clear it. That will be £35 please, and you can now do it yourself when it probably goes wrong in 2 years time or so! Very nice and honest of you mate, but £35? I'll get you back out in 2 years time then.

    And considering I had spent around £2000 for the projector and bits, £85 is peanuts.

    Cheers
     

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