Dedicated Cinema Room - Light Control and Wall/ Ceiling Treatment

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Nail Job will be easier for me but wont it affect the acoustics ? Just wondering i dont know much about this. There will be a gap then between the fabric and the wall and i think it might affect the sound. Please correct me if im wrong. If it doesnt bother anything im very fine by it and the glue job is painful i know that ;)

By MVELL do you mean Microvelvet ? Its a thin fabric which is very dark when viewed at certain angles and very shiny at other.

The fabric at the bottom is Microvelvet, in the first pic. Here it looks too shiny, but from the side ( 2nd pic ) it looks very dark.
View attachment 1529327View attachment 1529332
Why will it effect acoustics if it’s nailed?

it won’t so don’t worry about this.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Hi all,

After exhausting some dark greys and Flints Theatre Black in some tests, I am considering trying blackflock. But I remain undecided between the perfect dark grey that I have found for all walls or the former. Panels don't appeal for a few reasons, heavy dust build up in my room, getting them made (I think I would need someone to build them for me), and space, I am very sensitive and particular about my room, especially the layout and space and I assume using panels with MVL/ devore, I will loose a little room space. Not ruling panels out entirely, however.

My walls are quite a mess as it is, so blackflock would be an easy way of bypassing the hefty cost of a top painter and decorator (as high as £2k in London for my medium size room, as crazy and extortionate as that sounds), as well as making sense not having to worry about the paint job beneath being covered up or if I needed to remove the fabric. But on the latter point, does anyone here have experience with removing blackflock from a painted wall? Does it rip the paint/ patches of paint right off?

Kind thanks
 

sim12

Well-known Member
Hi all,

After exhausting some dark greys and Flints Theatre Black in some tests, I am considering trying blackflock. But I remain undecided between the perfect dark grey that I have found for all walls or the former. Panels don't appeal for a few reasons, heavy dust build up in my room, getting them made (I think I would need someone to build them for me), and space, I am very sensitive and particular about my room, especially the layout and space and I assume using panels with MVL/ devore, I will loose a little room space. Not ruling panels out entirely, however.

My walls are quite a mess as it is, so blackflock would be an easy way of bypassing the hefty cost of a top painter and decorator (as high as £2k in London for my medium size room, as crazy and extortionate as that sounds), as well as making sense not having to worry about the paint job beneath being covered up or if I needed to remove the fabric. But on the latter point, does anyone here have experience with removing blackflock from a painted wall? Does it rip the paint/ patches of paint right off?

Kind thanks
Anything with an adhesive backing that has been on a painted wall long term when removed will likely remove some paint, it would all but impossible to remove it without loosing patches, bare in mind that on a properly painted wall the dried paint is so thin a fraction of a millimetre it's not really designed to have anything adhered to it. On slight side note I see those adverts with sticky pads advertising that they're so strong you can hang picture frames and all types of things and the glue is guaranteed to never fail that may be so but the chances atr the paint will peel or break under the weight and take the picture frame with it.lol.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Anything with an adhesive backing that has been on a painted wall long term when removed will likely remove some paint, it would all but impossible to remove it without loosing patches, bare in mind that on a properly painted wall the dried paint is so thin a fraction of a millimetre it's not really designed to have anything adhered to it. On slight side note I see those adverts with sticky pads advertising that they're so strong you can hang picture frames and all types of things and the glue is guaranteed to never fail that may be so but the chances atr the paint will peel or break under the weight and take the picture frame with it.lol.

Thanks for your input, sim. I've actually used Command Strips before for trying to attach XTZ S2 speakers to my wall and pulling them off does remove paint down to the plasterboard. It ripped off in certain places only.
 

Broadsword

Well-known Member
I used notice board pins to attach my Devore to the walls, top bottom and sides.

F11C8878-F716-4D1D-85E0-4B0DE06E81D4.jpeg


These will do the job:

Amazon product

The ceiling will be a different matter though.
 

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
Hi guys, could someone link me to the tape I should use to match MVEL22 curtains for the border on my screen? The coving in my room is light coloured and reflecting loads of light. Going to MVEL22 to it this weeekend.

My MVEL22 curtains have taken the mick being made.. so I have cracked. I asked for the material back and I have bought a staple gun. 2 Curtains done, 3 left to do. Then I'll just buy a black sharpie and colour the staples black. Yes.. I was so annoyed I couldn't wait for amazon to deliver me black staples.
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Hi guys, could someone link me to the tape I should use to match MVEL22 curtains for the border on my screen? The coving in my room is light coloured and reflecting loads of light. Going to MVEL22 to it this weeekend.

My MVEL22 curtains have taken the mick being made.. so I have cracked. I asked for the material back and I have bought a staple gun. 2 Curtains done, 3 left to do. Then I'll just buy a black sharpie and colour the staples black. Yes.. I was so annoyed I couldn't wait for amazon to deliver me black staples.
No tape is going to be as dark, but PSMscreens border tape is the darkest tape I’ve used.
 

sim12

Well-known Member
I used PSM screen border tape on my first screen a few years back with lights on you can see it's not as dark as MVEL lights off you'll be non the wiser.
 

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
No tape is going to be as dark, but PSMscreens border tape is the darkest tape I’ve used.
Crap.. thanks mate. Is there any way I can easily attach it to my coving? About 4m wide?

I've upgraded from bluetack to a staple gun..
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Crap.. thanks mate. Is there any way I can easily attach it to my coving? About 4m wide?

I've upgraded from bluetack to a staple gun..
what's the shape of the coving? I assume you mean 4m in length?
 

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
what's the shape of the coving? I assume you mean 4m in length?
Haha yup 4M in length. I'll take a photo in a sec but its curved basically upwards. :(
 

AFM1

Active Member
Is devore or MVEL22 considered to be acoustically transparent?
 

sim12

Well-known Member
Is devore or MVEL22 considered to be acoustically transparent?
Whilst MVEL22 is not advertised as AT I myself put speakers behind it with no audible loss to me, @mb3195 has tested with the same findings with the exception of him testing it with the proper gear the results in audio loss being all but non existent.
 

zacjones71

Standard Member
Which would be the best fabric to upholster acoustic panels with -- devore or MVEL22? Neither of them stretch correct?

Is there a best option for non-reflective, stretchy black fabric to stretching over wood-framed acoustic panels (rigid fiberglass in wooden frames)?
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Which would be the best fabric to upholster acoustic panels with -- devore or MVEL22? Neither of them stretch correct?

Is there a best option for non-reflective, stretchy black fabric to stretching over wood-framed acoustic panels (rigid fiberglass in wooden frames)?
They both have a slight stretch, I’d recommend mvel though, this is what I’ve covered my bass traps and ceiling panels with, it’s much easier to work with than devore.
 

AFM1

Active Member
Funny, I came on here just now to ask a very similar but slightly different question....would wrapping acoustic panels with crushed velvet (which would probably be thicker / denser than devore / MVEL22) allow the panels to function as they should, as in would the crushed velvet still let through the high frequencies to be absorbed rather than deflect them, or would it impede the performance?

I think it probably would be fine and is probably a silly question, but better to ask than not...
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
If anyone wants to see how effective black velvet curtains are, check out this quick clip in my room:

 

igorxxxx

Standard Member
There should be a warning in these kind of threads for newbies like me, “beware, black velvet is addictive” :)

I only wanted to try a few meters of black material for the coffee table, and now I am waiting for my side curtains to be done.

I know, it’s a “highly sofisticated” sollution, but it was the best compromise I could do with the significant other, and I am quite surprised how much the picture quality improved especially on HDR material.I thought it will be quite time consuming and annoying to “hang” the curtains every movie night, but considering we only have movie nights during the weekends, the benefit really outweights the 10mins needed to install everything.

Can’t wait to try the side curtains in a week or two.

For now, this is the best I can do, and keep dreaming/hoping for a dedicated room (new house).
 

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fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Hi all,

I would appreciate your input and advice, please. I am almost ready to start painting the topcoats for my room. I'm not going with fabric, at least not at this point in time. I was previously going Flints Theatre Black ceiling and projection wall only/ dark grey rest of the walls. As I get closer to completion, I am thinking to just use the Flints everywhere. It was the best looking paint in my tests, velvety, flattest and the darkest. It is also far cheaper than most equivalents on the market. Really impressed by the quality from my tests with it. I am assuming it would be a marked improvement over the dark grey in terms of the image quality and overall experience; the Flints has a reflectance of around 2%, and the dark grey of choice is around 13 - 15%. Though not fabric, the thought of experiencing a film in a void, with the best contrast I can get from my X7900 are positives that I feel deserve me using the Flints on all of the walls.

But, my dilemma now is that I am unsure if I should use it for my skirting, door and door frame. I was previously going to use an eggshell in as black a black as I can get. It would benefit the room door, which is quite close to the image, in one's peripheral vision when viewing content.

So, do folks think I should use the Flints, or, stick with eggshell for the woodwork? My only concern if I use the Flints is a those areas picking up scratches easier with the Flints from traffic and when I install carpet and speaker stands etc. And b. I am not sure if it will look odd having it look so flat/ matt.

What are your thoughts, please? And what would you do?

Kind thanks,

fallinlight
 

3rdignis

Active Member
My dedicated cinema room is used for watching movies, the darker and even the room is the easier it is to "get into" the movie and the less I notice the decor.

The point at which I achieved enough contrast (ansi 2-300:1) was when I changed the last bits, a door and radiator from white to black.

I think I've reached the limits of my projector.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
My dedicated cinema room is used for watching movies, the darker and even the room is the easier it is to "get into" the movie and the less I notice the decor.

The point at which I achieved enough contrast (ansi 2-300:1) was when I changed the last bits, a door and radiator from white to black.

I think I've reached the limits of my projector.

Cheers bud. I should state, I don't mind making this a dedicated room now. Before I wanted to keep it a living room space that I could lounge in, too, as well as enjoy films.

Well done with your improvements.

Would you go eggshell or use the same Flints flat matt for all the woodwork? I am still uncertain about that.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Someone suggested that they would not like it if the finish and shade of black was different on the skirting, to the wall. I doubt I will get it matching. They also suggested - and this did cross my mind - that I could do a dark grey for skirting. But it would now need to be as dark or darker than the undercoat, not too much of a problem, though.
 

3rdignis

Active Member
My chalky, Matt black stage paint picked up marks quite quickly.

Saying that, if you painted the whole room Matt black you could add fabric slowly before it starts to mark ( your projector would allow for this) leaving only small areas to repaint.

I can't imagine an eggshell black door or skirting board compared to Matt black having any effect on contrast.
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Someone suggested that they would not like it if the finish and shade of black was different on the skirting, to the wall. I doubt I will get it matching. They also suggested - and this did cross my mind - that I could do a dark grey for skirting. But it would now need to be as dark or darker than the undercoat, not too much of a problem, though.
IMO the shine off the eggshell will light up like a lightbulb when you have it against the flints paint.
 

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