Dayton UM18 Build

Psy, I bought the 6000d as i intend to run 2 of these albeit 15”s. The amp is extremely loud! If you ever owned an Xbox 360 think that but even more so. Im routing mine to a cupboard next door as there is no way I could have it in the same room. I would have liked a crown but ultimately budget and the inuke has the high pass that will protect the driver where as the crown wont.
So you’re saying the crown amp doesn’t have a high pass filter?
 
Reading many posts on avs the crown amps do not have the necessary filter to stop the driver from over excursion, the inukes do. The general rule is if using a crown xls a mini dsp is needed as a protective measure, otherwise the driver can be damaged beyond repair (brief and vague description)
 
Slow progress on this as I've been working on the outside of the cinema and the garden recently but have now glued and screwed a side onto the sub.

20190520_200513.jpg


Will glue the other side tomorrow and then attach the end.

I got some Spax MDF screws from Wickes and have to say I'm really impressed with them!
 
Hi psy, just pointing out before final assembly but you seem to have missed the crossed section on the back of the baffle. If you are doing this intentionally please ignore, but the cross section will add rigidity to the baffle.
 
Aye! My chop saw is in the cinema as the garage is too full so it's a faff getting it out to cut so this weekend I'll sort out the final bracing pieces I need.

I should be able to finish assembly but the NX3000D is on back order from Amazon and looks like it won't arrive until next month :(
 
Aye! My chop saw is in the cinema as the garage is too full so it's a faff getting it out to cut so this weekend I'll sort out the final bracing pieces I need.

I should be able to finish assembly but the NX3000D is on back order from Amazon and looks like it won't arrive until next month :(
The reason I pointed it out was that i see you have glued some small pieces of mdf around the speaker hole, assuming for the screws to have more material to bite into?
As we were using the same plan I understood the four pieces of bracing at that part of the baffle are fixed directly to the back, therefore making the small pieces you have glued on redundant at least in 12,3,6 and 9 o’clock positions. Am I making sense?
 
Added some more bracing and then lined it:

20190524_164210.jpg


I then test fitted the front but it's a mm or so too long so need a trim but it's time to make pizza:

20190524_165814.jpg


@Dans1210 how much did you stuff yours? I've got tons of polyfill.
 
Ah cool, the last picture in post 19 shows some additional support I've put in place for the baffle by the port so hope that will be OK.

I'm trying to decide on amps at the moment. The 6000D has gone up in price, it used to be £318 on gear4music. I'm wondering whether I really need it or whether a 3000D will suffice, I may run two subs in the future but I can't see it happening any time soon given other life demands on my wallet. I know there's a lot said about fan noise and I may have read the 3000 only has 1 fan?

The other option was going for a Crown amp as I gather they're quieter and then getting a Mini DSP to go with, not as neat as a one box setup and probably more expensive.

I’ve an inuke6000dsp with fan mod in the for sale section if your interested.

Cheers

Edit: Just saw you bought an amp :)
 
Filled, sanded:

20190525_152746.jpg


Primed, painted:
20190525_164554.jpg


On Monday I'll stuff it and put the driver in.

Thanks for the heads-up Matt, I'm going to stick with the 3000 for the moment.
 
Looking good, that’s a monster :D
 
is the lining from the earlier post still what you have in there? hard to tell from the picture but you might benefit from something placed to attenuate the length (or width depending on how you place it) mode. It will be extremely easy to see this on an impedance trace if you have that capability (and easy to make a jig for that if you haven't).
 
is the lining from the earlier post still what you have in there? hard to tell from the picture but you might benefit from something placed to attenuate the length (or width depending on how you place it) mode. It will be extremely easy to see this on an impedance trace if you have that capability (and easy to make a jig for that if you haven't).

Ugh, didn't see the notification for this.

It's lined and then I've stuffed a whole load of polyfill in either end, maybe two good size pillows worth, or more, but not densely packed. I'm not restricting air to the port either.

How would I do an impedance trace?
 
My wife helped me lift it up onto the stage now I've got the carpet tiles down:

20190602_162205.jpg


It's wires and ready to go, hopefully, still no update on Amazon shipping the amp. Screen back in place:

20190602_162643.jpg
 
The NX3000D arrived yesterday and I've got it connected up and working this evening. I think I'm going to need a bit of help getting the best out of it.

I've got a Marantz AV7705 connecting to the NX via XLR. Sub cabinet should be ~17Hz. Here is the initial configuration based on this AVS thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-...tend-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-dcx2496.html

Configuration.png

Filter.png

Parametric.png


Now a couple of things to note:

1. I haven't run Audyssey on the Marantz yet as one of the speakers isn't working, think I need to check the wiring this weekend.

2. The input gain on the NX had to be 100% to get the input lights showing up.

What should be my next steps getting everything running properly and in what order? I have REW so I can take some proper measurements but suspect I need to get my levels and gains going correctly.

This AVS post has a process, I'm not sure if following it would be wise: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1628609-setting-inuke-amp-gains.html

I've also been following @mkohman thread (Mini Marty: Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax (Build Thread))
 
You would normally need to attenuate substantially in the inuke to avoid clipping in its front end (-18 to -20 which is something like 11 o'clock on the dial) if you play at reference. Do you?
 
Probably! I'll go again this afternoon and see, I only went up to about 35db on the Marantz with Spotify not at full volume.
 
The NX3000D arrived yesterday and I've got it connected up and working this evening. I think I'm going to need a bit of help getting the best out of it.

I've got a Marantz AV7705 connecting to the NX via XLR. Sub cabinet should be ~17Hz. Here is the initial configuration based on this AVS thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-...tend-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-dcx2496.html

View attachment 1177012
View attachment 1177011
View attachment 1177010

Now a couple of things to note:

1. I haven't run Audyssey on the Marantz yet as one of the speakers isn't working, think I need to check the wiring this weekend.

2. The input gain on the NX had to be 100% to get the input lights showing up.

What should be my next steps getting everything running properly and in what order? I have REW so I can take some proper measurements but suspect I need to get my levels and gains going correctly.

This AVS post has a process, I'm not sure if following it would be wise: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1628609-setting-inuke-amp-gains.html

I've also been following @mkohman thread (Mini Marty: Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax (Build Thread))

Looks good Rich.. Out of interest why is your phase set to 180? Have you tried 0?
 

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