Darbee Visual Presense Darblet Owners Thread

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kbfern

Distinguished Member
Any problem getting one from Allan as if Ricky does not have any stock any new stock coming in I assume will be at the new higher price, that is assuming he is putting his prices up as are the other darblet suppliers here and in the US.
 

edbrandrick

Novice Member
kbfern said:
Any problem getting one from Allan as if Ricky does not have any stock any new stock coming in I assume will be at the new higher price, that is assuming he is putting his prices up as are the other darblet suppliers here and in the US.
It does state on the web site that all orders placed before 16th September will be honoured at the pre-increase price
 

kbfern

Distinguished Member
That's fair enough I just did not want anyone to pay the higher price if they did not need to, I have not been to Rickys site so did not know Ricky was offering the price fix for orders placed prior to 16th Sept .:)
 

edbrandrick

Novice Member
kbfern said:
That's fair enough I just did not want anyone to pay the higher price if they did not need to, I have not been to Rickys site so did not know Ricky was offering the price fix for orders placed prior to 16th Sept .:)
Version 2 is available but I guess for the same price it's better to wait for Version 3 stock
 

museumsteve

Well-known Member
Ricky's sold out of v2 just hasn't updated site yet.

My understanding is v3 is only essential if you use a Lumagen? Is this about right?
 

kbfern

Distinguished Member
Lumagen or Dune HD in which case a v3 is needed.
 

kbfern

Distinguished Member
Allan should have v3 as he sold all his v2's that he got in his first batch (I got one of those) his second shipment were v3.I guess Ricky only had 1 shipment then as no one here has a v1 unless they imported directly.I think Jon Statt was the only one that did that.
 

Wildpredator

Novice Member
museumsteve said:
Ricky's sold out of v2 just hasn't updated site yet.

My understanding is v3 is only essential if you use a Lumagen? Is this about right?
kbfern said:
Lumagen or Dune HD in which case a v3 is needed.
Old fat style ps3 also requires v3 :)
 

Batdog

Well-known Member
Just to tempt you a little more: Even an old i1LT sensor that has drifted as far as colour temp is concerned still measures gamma accurately. Find one cheap in the classifieds (and don't bother trying to set colour temp with it) plus (free) HFCR software and have a play with sorting the gamma out using one of the custom gamma memories, if you have the time and patience...

Or just enjoy the Darbee. :D
Grrrr....I knew this would happen.........have been trying to ignore this post for a week or so now but curiosity is getting the better of me as usual!!

I assume that to calibrate gamma, the sensor, HFCR & my laptop is all I would need. In terms of the further effort required:

Is there a steep learning curve before I could perform the gamma calibration?

I assume there's no automation, I would be doing it all?

Would the pj need to come down from the ceiling, or can I do the calibration off the screen?

Cheers
 

Avi

Distinguished Member
I assume that to calibrate gamma, the sensor, HFCR & my laptop is all I would need.
You'll also need an accurate pattern generator. This could be a Blu-ray player if you know its output produces reference levels. Something like AVS HD 709 calibration patterns would also be required.

Depending on your calibration goal you may need to manually calculate some targets if the software doesn't have an option that meets your goal.

Is there a steep learning curve before I could perform the gamma calibration
Getting your head around the concepts, interaction and repeatability can be a bit of a challenge at the start. Once you understand the basics it's not too bad. Calibration can also be a bit like doing a Rubik's cube puzzle in that changing one face interacts with the others.

HCFR is more cumbersome to use than the popular commercial software which can be more of a challenge for those new to calibration but it's free and can do the job.

There's a guide in the calibration section on here "grayscale for dummies" based on using HCFR that may help - http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

The low light performance of the measuring device may also be a problem if the display has a low near black performance

I assume there's no automation, I would be doing it all?
Not with HCFR but some commercial packages offer automation.

Would the pj need to come down from the ceiling, or can I do the calibration off the screen?
Ideally take reading from the screen. If you plan to take reading from the PJ lens you will need a meter with a diffuser and you may need to factor in the effect the screen material has on image characteristics i.e. an offset.

Avi
 
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museumsteve

Well-known Member
Just ordered one from Allan @ Ideal seems he has plenty of stock so I'm looking forward to getting my teeth into it this weekend. :smashin:

My HD350 was calibrated by Gordon a few weeks ago and in my pitch black cave I'm hoping to see some pretty nice benefits :)
 

Jenz

Active Member
So do those from Kalibrate (Rickyj)
 

museumsteve

Well-known Member
As do those from Rickyj at Kalibrate.
Good stuff :)

I only mentioned Ideal cos mine arrived from there this morning and I know Kalibrate dont have stock until next week, as they were my first port of call when I decided to buy one ;)
 

edbrandrick

Novice Member
Would using a short hdmi cable from the darblet to the projector cause any problems ? That is a 30cm cable ! If I buy one the Darblet would be better close to my projector !
 

museumsteve

Well-known Member
Dont see that it would make any difference mate. Just bear in mind the Darbee is IR so you may want to have line of sight.
I'm going to have mine behind my amp as I'm hoping to have it set at around 45% and just leave it.

I got mine this morning but wont be able to play until tomorrow evening by the looks of it :(
 

kbarnes70

Well-known Member
Would using a short hdmi cable from the darblet to the projector cause any problems ? That is a 30cm cable ! If I buy one the Darblet would be better close to my projector !
There have been some reports lately that suggest that cables less than about 2m long can cause HDMI problems. Personally I have used short cables in the past without any adverse issues arising. Try it and see before you make the installation permanent.
 

museumsteve

Well-known Member
There have been some reports lately that suggest that cables less than about 2m long can cause HDMI problems. Personally I have used short cables in the past without any adverse issues arising. Try it and see before you make the installation permanent.
Are you talking about short cables with the Darbee or short HDMI cables in general?
 

kbarnes70

Well-known Member
Are you talking about short cables with the Darbee or short HDMI cables in general?
Sorry - should have made that clear. In general. It was discussed in the Darbee thread on AVS at some length but they were referring to cables in general. I'd never heard it suggested before but they pulled out some good supporting references to back it up.

EDIT: Here you go - apparently it's something that Lumagen reported on. Here's a couple of quotes from the AVS thread:

"Not a myth relative to HDMI cable length and Lumagen radiance products. Randy and others at Lumagen have stated their processors "need" HDMI cable lengths 6ft or longer. Bugs have been reported using cables less than 6ft with their Radiance products. In fact, I think Randy talked about this in this thread, but most certainly in the Radiance mini threads and other radiance threads."

"I had received this advice about HDMI cables from Jim Peterson of Lumagen a few years back while troubleshooting a video sync problem:

"Make sure the cable is at least 6 feet long. All HDMI chips are EQ'd and they appear to be EQ'd for longer cables. We have seen a number of cases where a longer cable (10 to 15 feet) worked much better than a 3 foot cable. Six feet seems to be fine."

Like I say, I've never had problems with 1m long cables.
 
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museumsteve

Well-known Member
Sorry - should have made that clear. In general. It was discussed in the Darbee thread on AVS at some length but they were referring to cables in general. I'd never heard it suggested before but they pulled out some good supporting references to back it up.

EDIT: Here you go - apparently it's something that Lumagen reported on. Here's a couple of quotes from the AVS thread:

"Not a myth relative to HDMI cable length and Lumagen radiance products. Randy and others at Lumagen have stated their processors "need" HDMI cable lengths 6ft or longer. Bugs have been reported using cables less than 6ft with their Radiance products. In fact, I think Randy talked about this in this thread, but most certainly in the Radiance mini threads and other radiance threads."

"I had received this advice about HDMI cables from Jim Peterson of Lumagen a few years back while troubleshooting a video sync problem:

Make sure the cable is at least 6 feet long. All HDMI chips are EQ'd and they appear to be EQ'd for longer cables. We have seen a number of cases where a longer cable (10 to 15 feet) worked much better than a 3 foot cable. Six feet seems to be fine."

Like I say, I've never had problems with 1m long cables.
lol..you learn something new every day ;)
 

stucarblne

Well-known Member
I had some issues with sound dropouts with the V3 Darblet and was beginning to think it could have been the fact that i was using two chord 1 metre HDMI's after the recent talk about cable lengh.

But have since discovered that it was the bad fitting power supply into the supplied shaver adapter, causing a loose connection. And it was always sitting at an angle and loose while inserted. But i have taped it firmly straight and it's tight fitting now and have had no issues since :thumbsup:
 

KelvinS1965

Distinguished Member
Marvell call pixel luminance manipulation natural depth expansion. With HD material this creates an affect similar to DVP at low level setting. This can be observed using an Oppo and setting sharpness to level 1 or 2. Any higher and more aggressive processing occurs as with DVP at higher levels.
I just got round to trying this last night (I had to swap some HDMI cables around as I was using HDMI2 on my Oppo). On a paused scene I could see quite a difference going from 0 to 1 on the Oppo's sharpness and have to say that I liked the effect (sat up close to my TV). It was a scene on the Mission Impossible 4 BluRay, with hair, plus some other detail on a metal watch really went from appearing a little soft to looking crisp. Going up to '2' was overkill for my taste and I also noticed that distance shots (such as an Adele concert) looked odd on the higher setting.

Has anyone with a Darblet compared the two options? Kind of wondering if what the Oppo does is enough for me, given I didn't like the next setting up?

Makes me wonder what this setting would have looked like on my old HD350. I might have to borrow it back before the room gets redecorated to try it out (+1 if I do get the Darblet). :D

Just debating placing an order before the price rise, even though I won't be able to use it much in the next month due to other commitments.
 

Eitzel

Active Member
I had some issues with sound dropouts with the V3 Darblet and was beginning to think it could have been the fact that i was using two chord 1 metre HDMI's after the recent talk about cable lengh.

But have since discovered that it was the bad fitting power supply into the supplied shaver adapter, causing a loose connection. And it was always sitting at an angle and loose while inserted. But i have taped it firmly straight and it's tight fitting now and have had no issues since :thumbsup:
I'm thinking of picking up one of these:-
T4108ST - STONTRONICS - AC-DC POWER SUPPLY, 5V 1A, 2.1MM | CPC
 

JonStatt

Well-known Member
So these units now come with a uk 3 pin power supply cable ? I have read it somewhere but cant remember where !
Actually a UK reseller MUST provide some sort of 3-pin UK adapter. It is actually a breach of UK regulations if they don't. However, there are 2 ways they could have gone, a simple UK to US pin converter, or provide a UK 5V power supply meaning you can throw the US one in the bin if you want. The US PSU is 100-240V so works fine in the UK with an adapter. I believe the UK resellers are all providing complete 5V UK power supplies making the US one redundant. I understood that Darbee were considering providing a more universal power supply with changeable power plugs for future distribution though.
 

JonStatt

Well-known Member
Has anyone with a Darblet compared the two options? Kind of wondering if what the Oppo does is enough for me, given I didn't like the next setting up?

Makes me wonder what this setting would have looked like on my old HD350. I might have to borrow it back before the room gets redecorated to try it out (+1 if I do get the Darblet). :D
I have. I don't think the two are quite comparable. The Darblet "appears" more selective in where it applies its changes on a particular scene. And of course between the 0 and 1 of the Oppo is about 40% adjustment on the Darblet! Nevertheless, if you like the effect of +1 on the Oppo, you are probably the right kind of person to enjoy the Darbee......no guarantees though! I don't like +2 on the Oppo either, but its not a selective algorithm.
 

kbfern

Distinguished Member
As you say Jon if the Oppo 1 setting= 40% 2 may be 80% at least with the darblet you have 1% increments so you can have far more control so you don't overcook the setting.

Most folks seem to settle somewhere between 45-65% with a few going lower and a few higher.
 

museumsteve

Well-known Member
I spent a good few hours with my Darbee tonight and tbh I don't feel it's something I need in my setup.
I sat and played with different movies, including some 2D stunners like Avatar and Battleship. The difference is noticeable, but I guess it's really down to whether you like the difference or not. Personally I'm so happy with my picture (ISF'd HD350) I don't think I can justify a Darbee in my chain. I'd be more happy if I put something in that wouldn't need tweaking but I'm sure I'd spend my movie time turning it on or off, or up and down..and I enjoy my movies too much for that.
It was worth a try and if I hadn't given it a go I'd be constantly pondering. So I'm putting mine up for sale in the classifieds anyway :)
 
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