Cyrus 8vs2 shorted - repair advice?


Standard Member
So I shorted my 8vs2 while setting up (frayed cables) and now it is blinking red when you try to take it out of standby. Doesn't seem to be going away. These things are supposed to have short-circuit protection but it doesn't seem to have worked this time.

I didn't hear any pops or bangs, and the electronic smoke doesn't seem to have gotten out of the case so I am hopeful that this should be a pretty simple repair. I know my way around a multimeter and I am pretty decent with electronics soldering so I want to repair this myself.

Does anyone have any advice on what to test or what to look for? I'm planning to do this in a few days when I have a free evening so I would appreciate it if anyone has any experience with the internals of these or has any idea what damage a short might have caused. Many thanks.

wine man

Active Member
Cyrus won't release any info or circuit diagrams to end users so you are on your own unfortunately. Best of luck sorting it out.


Well-known Member
I'm assuming you mean you shorted the speaker outputs, which a lot of amps can't handle.

You say "the electronic smoke doesn't seem to have gotten out of the case". Does that just mean you didn't see any smoke? First up, look for obvious signs of damage. Blackened components and scorch marks are are obvious signs, as are bulging capacitors as tazzo1 says. Blown capacitors will sometimes leak their contents onto the board too.

If you don't see any damage, check any fuses the amp might have - maybe you got lucky and the shorting just blew a fuse before any component damage was done.

But if there is any damage to passive components like reistors or capacitors, that's often just a symptom and the real failure might be one or more of the output/driver transistors in the power amp stage. Those are the big ones usually attached to big heatsinks, and others in the close vicinity (which might have smaller heatsinks).

So I'd test those with a multimeter. The simplest check is to look for shorts between any of the three pins, which is how they'll usually fail. It's good to check for shorts in any of the resistors and capacitors around the same part of the circuit too.

If you can identify bad components, hopefully it will just be a case of getting new ones and replacing them.

Saying all that, if there's any damage to any modern computer trickery parts (processor chips and all that), I wouldn't have a clue. My knowledge of amps is restricted to old ones that don't do any of that new-fangled stuff.
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