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Changing 8" sub driver to a Car Sub??

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by Gman85, Jan 18, 2005.

  1. Gman85

    Gman85
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    My Celestion S8 has an 8" sub which doesn't go low at all! The box is fairly small and has twin portd underneath, bigger than a BK but the actual effective volume is small as there is a panel of wood inside the box that separates the amp.

    I have come to two conclusions. One is to replace the sub driver for a deep Car sub (kicker) which are a good brand. THe other is to ruin the insides of the box and take away this panel as to increase the box volume.

    WIll removing this divider piece of wood to increase the volume of the box make the bass deeper and is it dangerous to take it out due to the amp??
     
  2. bob1

    bob1
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    I can't see that you will improve the sub by changing things, i would sell the sub and do some saving to get something better.
     
  3. KHCC

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    Mornin'

    Don't rip the partition out as the amp compartment probably isn't sealed and will cause all sorts of problems.

    If you do go ahead and change the sub, to a automotive sub, the first thing to do is cantact the manufacturer and speak to someone in technical as you need to know if the internal amp will run a 4 Ohm voice coil? Otherwise the amp will fry, also how powerful is the amp as the Kickers are not that efficient. What is the internal size of the enclosure? I would go for something like the Kicker Solobaric 8" as they were the ultimate in combination of sound pressure, quality and enclosure size in their day, I still have two at home purely because they were so good (not sure what to do with them, like all the other equipment I have!) The Solobaric 8" will go into a 0.35 CuFt enclosure up to 0.75 CuFt or you could try the XPL as they were more efficient and designed for SPL and although sounded good they weren't designed for SQ.

    The only thing with the Solobarics is they are power hungry so the sub amp needs to have some welly.

    Need any more help then come back to me.

    regards
     
  4. contactadam2002

    contactadam2002
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    You do not want to use a car sub as not only do they sound poor when they are not in a car but they do not compare to the depth of home cinema subs.
     
  5. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    What makes you say that? A good driver is just that, regardless of where you put it. :confused:
     
  6. Mylo

    Mylo
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    car subs work fine in my experience, used one when I was developing my project sub, perfect match impedance wise. Have alook at Mats sub in the DIY forum if you dont believe that they work.
     
  7. KHCC

    KHCC
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    What car subs have you heard? Kenwood, pioneer, Sony!!! the usual poop.

    Kicker subs drop, JL audio W7 subs like mine drop lower than a home cinema sub and it's a 10" with 2.5" excursion run off a 1200 watt RMS British hand made monoblock. Or I have a Square 15" sub (surface area of an 18" in a 4 cubic foot box with a slot port) for a laugh will make you sick as it will produce 150dB at 20Hz! Name one home cinema sub that can do match it.

    Home Cinema have qpecialist products, but so does Car Audio. I'm hopefully installing a system worth £25,000 into a car this year for a friend. Hand made speakers and amplifiers, £1000 subwoofer (that's the drive unit only) and optic fibre.

    I hope this clears things up a little.

    Regards
     
  8. KHCC

    KHCC
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    I also forgot that companies like Dynaudio, Scan-speak, Canton and Linn etc, the list goes on, all use the same drive units in cars that they do in domestic speakers and subs.
     
  9. Mandel

    Mandel
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    When I blew the 8" driver in my Eltax sub I replaced it with a £20ish Sony job. Sounds far cleaner than it did before :thumbsup: Maybe I just got lucky though...
     

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