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Car subwoofers

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by go5, May 2, 2003.

  1. go5

    go5
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    hi all,

    short and sweet

    I have two old car subs, can I use them in a home theatre environment if I build them an enclosure. Why not If I can't?

    Thanks for any info!
     
  2. Reiner

    Reiner
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    Should be possible though you may need to add some power amps to make them active as most AV amps/receivers would have a hard time coping with passive subs.
    Actually I intend to do the same one day, have two nice 30cm Visaton chassis at home which I used in my car, too.
     
  3. Babylon

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    Worked for me



    [​IMG]
     
  4. avanzato

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    I've just got a VIBE Alpha home sub which uses the same driver as their car boxes.

    and
    Babylon: What's your equipment stacked on?
     
  5. Babylon

    Babylon
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    There just some shelf brackets from Ikea and I got some glass cut locally,screwed the brackets to the wall, and hey presto.
     
  6. micb3rd

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    It realy depends on the subwoofer.

    To be honest most car subwoofer drivers do not make very good in home woofers, they often have high FS values and low xmax.

    They are often designed to run in small boxes and usually get tones of cabin gain which is great in a car but not good in a home.

    I have seen a few JL Audio subwoofers (JL W0/W3) can model ok for use in the home.
     
  7. Babylon

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    Do you know what,someone asked the same sort of question on another forum the other day, and I told him that I did a bit of reading up on it before I put money into the project, and everybody seemed to come back with the same answer and reason why it wouldn't work, the FS is to high, the Xmax is to low, or this is wrong or that is wrong, in other words they just seemed to be regurgitating the same line, and I got the impression that next to none of them had ever given it a try.

    It's all to easy to read the spec sheet and say "That shouldn't work, so I won't bother" but you see, it may work, so there is no harm what so ever in giving it a go.Don't get me wrong, sometimes the technobable can be spot on and it can be a bit of a risk, That Sony Sub in that box that I have sounds lovely in home,but that same box and Sub in the car sounds awful, but going by the spec sheet they should both not work, Box to big for the car, Sub not right for the home.

    The real problem with this hobby is that it can swallow as much money as you could ever throw at it, it's all to easy if you have the money to buy yourself into a kickass system, I don't by any stretch of the imagination have a kickass system, but it has swallowed some money over the years, but nothing I have bought puts a smile on my face as much as them Subs, not just because(To me anyway)they sound good and look good, but because I made them, and it's a shame more people don't try the DIY route instead, as throwing money at it is all to easy if you ask me.

    So I say, give it a go mate, cos technically, "A Bumble Bee can't fly."
     
  8. micb3rd

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    My comments are not from spec sheet analysis alone, I take the thiele and Small prapamaters off a drivers spec sheet run them into a few speaker/subwoofer building programs and look at the responce curves play with the enclose size or vent tune, determin the f3, f6, f10 of the enclosure then I look at the the excursion and group delay results and then make an informed choice.

    I have heard some truly awful car audio subwoofers used in home installations which produce no bass below 40 hz and a huge 25 db peak in the 100 hz region.

    As I said I have modeled some car subwoofer and they come out quite well, but there has been others once that are plain awful for in house use.

    I am not saying people should not try but there are woofers out there that will perform so much better in home.
     
  9. Babylon

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    Your right, there not spec sheet alone, there spec sheet typed into WinISD, which if you ask me is much the same thing, Somewhere in the world is a machine or program that say's my 3802 can put out 105 watt over 7 channels, but I dought very much that it dose, as I said, it can be a risk to buy and then build a box and for it to sound crap in the end, WinISD said the Sony would start to roll off at about 32Hz and be gone by about 24, but I didn't let the fact that it was a car sub stop me from having a go, which may have been enough in itself to stop a lot of people there and then, jees, if we all followed the norm we would all have Velodynes.

    I also think you would have a lot of trouble finding a Home Sub built to the same quality and standard's as a Car sub in this country for anything close to the £50 the Sony cost.
     
  10. wassap

    wassap
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    Out of interest what sort of freq responce is required from a home sub as opposed to a car sub?

    Basically if one were to design a "home" sub using a car driver what sort of characteristics does one need to cater for, im fairly adept at making enclosures for my car, so i wouldnt mind ago at making one for the home, at least then i can tailor the enclosure design for something that suits my room etc
     
  11. rOAdeh

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    I'm no expert on DIY by any means but for a start most music doesn't go below 25hz whereas HC is increasingly having to deal with 20hz or lower in some of the more recent blockbuster movies. Similarly, to give a good 'punch' to music i expect that many car subs provide this by providing a response curve that may be designed to have extra output around 30-40hz. In good HC, ideally you would want a flat response.

    I'm sure there are other factors such as problematic room nodes etc to deal with when you want a flat response but those are the main differences that i see..
     
  12. Diamond

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    At least you don't want a car sub/driver which is to give max SPL. That would sound like sh** at home.. DLS or other max-SQ drivers could work nice.
     
  13. micb3rd

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    Well this is a bumped thread from the past eh?

    There are some decent car audio driver that would ok in the home with the right encloures. Also car subwoofer in the past few years have been increasing is excursion cababilities.
     
  14. micb3rd

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    You get a fairly massive cabin gain when you put a subwoofer in the car, the transfer function is quite different to a room.

    If you are going sealed then you can go for a larger enclosure (try and drop the Qtc down low) depending on the driver half a cubic foot to 2 extra cubic feet will gave an far better extended frequnecy response.

    If you are going for the vented route then tuning low like 28-22hz will provide far greater low end.

    Tuning the vent a fair bit higher than this will sacrifice the low end often tend to boom a lot.
     
  15. Mroizouk

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    Yeah I agree, micb3rd. ^ There are some very serious car subs on the market these days. Just peruse bassjunkies.com or caraudiodirect.co.uk to get an idea
     

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