Can you give the image more Ooomph by changing the screen?

Tempest

Distinguished Member
As I've said many times now, I have an AE200 and watching it total blackout on a 7ft wide screen in a totally blacked out room.

Projection wall painted matt black and surronding walls painted a darkish matt blue.

My screen is white blackout cloth which was fabric on one side and a sligthly less brilliant white rubbery coating on the other side.

After a quick test (long time ago now) I found out you got a sharper image on the rubbery side so that's what I'm projecting on.

Have calibrated the projector and it's all about as bright as I can make it.
On NORMAL mode, just a tweak to brightness and contrast.

Using a scene of Gladiator, if I take any settings any higher I will start loosing detail, so I'm about as far as I can go.

The thing is................

I kinda feel I'd like a bit more PUNCH from the image.
It looks very clear and detailed, but it's not exactly jumping out of the screen at me.

Black are grey, but I don't really care about that to much.

I know you can't have any GAIN screen on a LCD really, else you get bright spots.

The light fusion screens sounded excellent if you could get the bloke to make you one.

Just wondered if it's my projector, or the screen which is stopping the image jump out of the screen at me.

Looks a bit flat I guess you could say.
 

theritz

Active Member
The answer, unsurprisingly, is yes......

My situation is quite similar, I moved from a blackout cloth screen to a Harkness Hall Matt Plus last year - the effect is not "night and day", but there is a definte "snap" to the image that wasn't there before. I'm running an AE100, in low lamp with a Hoya FLD filter, so it's running as low a light level as you'll find. Running in high lamp without the filter is too bright for my taste now, I guess that says it all.

By the sound of it you have the advantage of a dedicated space, so for the cost of the material (I'm assuming that you've a home made fixed screen on a frame) you'll be sorted. Screen material is available from Harkness Hall and from DRH (maybe oters too ?), I haven't checked prices but you should be able to do the switch for less than £100 or thereabouts.

The choice of material is a matter for yourself, I wouldn't be temted to go above unity gain, 1.3 might be an option, but I couldn't be bothered with the expense of trying 2 screens and samples don't really give enough to make an informed opinion for me. You would also have the option of trying a grey screen material (maybe with some gain?) designed for LCD, if you wnted to go that route. Do some browsing on their sites (or hop over to the screens forum, someone there might have tried different stuff other than the exotic multi-formula spray route, too much malarky for me.

Tried Icestorm (colour killer) and various silver/grey/pearlescent mixes about 18 months ago, between surface imperfections and hotspotting I couldn't get a satisfactory result. Silver was the most impressive in terms of "3D" quality to the image but with serious bloom and hotspotting, so I can understand the hyperbole that surrounds the "Light Fusion" claims, it just requires too much effort for my taste.

Sean.
 

Tempest

Distinguished Member
Thanks "theritz" for the excellent advice.

I Could change the material (would be a pain, but possible)

I've a feeling I'd really like to have some samples, and perhaps fix them side by side on a sheet of hardboard or something, as I'd always be wondering what the OTHER material would have been like.

Grey with gain!!! I never knew you could get that.
 

theritz

Active Member
Tempest,

I Could change the material (would be a pain, but possible)

If you have a regular blackout screen on a wooden frame (as per various instruction links around here and elsewhere) it takes no time or trouble - quick whizz with a stanley knife to remove the existing material (or not if you like) and about 15 - 20 mins to attach the new material. I have an electric staple/nail gun - can't recommend one enough - which makes it even quicker, did the original with a regular manual staple gun, takes a bit longer, much harder on the paws.

IIRC, the change over took us an hour or thereabouts - and my screen had to removed from it's masking set up and reassembled into it afterwards.


Sean.

Sean.
 

Tempest

Distinguished Member
I'll keep this short as this is more a screen discussion now.

I found an old projector screen (from boots) and got it indoors a few moments ago for a quick test. I was expecting a old standard white screen, perhaps with a bit of gain, but when I opened it up, I was supprised to se it was in fact a silver screen.

Quite a strong grey/silver in fact, a million miles away from white.

Attemped best i could to position it (in part) in front of my much bigger white screen and loaded up monsters inc.

So be honest It seemed quite good.

Didn't seem to be any major hot spotting issues (though not easy to tell really)
The colours seemed a bit brighter than my white screen.
Not jaw dropping, but a definate little notch up. plus as it's not white I'd guess (though I was silly not to test) the blacks should be blacker)

It had ripples in it, plus it has a weird grid on the silver which looks like it's made into the cloth, almost like screendoor on the cloth!!!

Can you actually buy silvered screen material? or is it a no no really?
 

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