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Can this be fixed?

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by ryan9118, Sep 8, 2005.

  1. ryan9118

    ryan9118
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    I'm lookin for a quick answer, so hopefully someone can help. :lease:


    My sub stopped workin the other day, drivin down the road. So I popped it out of its box and noticed something wrong.... On the bottom of the sub, there's two wires that connect from the bottom of the actual sub to the gold tabs (where the speaker wire ends clip on to). One of those wires is shredded off. I took it to a shop and they said I have to send it back to JL Audio, that it can't be sautered back on. The problem is I didn't buy it so I have no receipts, and it's a few years old. I'll attach a picture to show the wire I'm talking about. It's bad quality I know, but thats the best I could get.

    Someone help, please. Hopefully someone can respond in the next hour or so, because I'm thinking about just going and buying a new sub tonight.
     

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  2. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    Have you got a better picture? The area of interest is well out of focus.
     
  3. ryan9118

    ryan9118
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    Sorry my camera will just not focus up close. These two are the best I could come up with for now. If these still aren't good enough let me know. I'm thinking about leaving to get a new sub soon, so lets hope these are good enough! :rolleyes:
     

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  4. ryan9118

    ryan9118
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    Don't worry about it now, already bought a new sub.
     
  5. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    Fair enough, it was probably repairable but would be quite hard to describe.

    What did you buy? :)
     
  6. Nimby

    Nimby
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    When you need to get a sharp camera focus it helps to have lots of light.That means out of doors! So the camera lens can stop itself down automatically for greatest depth of focus. This assumes an automatic aperture camera lens of course. Many cameras lack close-up ability unless they have a "macro" setting.

    I would guess this was a case of a detached lead (wire) beween the speaker coil and the terminals on the basket. Possibly due to poor quality wire which self-hardened over the years through typical abuse.

    I have seen short lengths of thin flexible multistrand copper wire used to bridge the gap to make a simple and cheap repair. But the extra bit of wire must be very flexible or the repair itself will break through work hardening of the metal in the wire. Simply soldering it in place could raise stress points in both the new and the old lead. Try to avoid burning holes in your cone when using a soldering iron or the speaker won't work very well afterwards.

    Nimby
     
  7. Steve.EX

    Steve.EX
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    I would say have a go with a low surface temp soldering iron. They are temp controllable and given the operating temp of the coil (that the broken conductor is connected to) itself, i doubt very much indeed you will have any problems if you know how too solder nicely.
     
  8. micb3rd

    micb3rd
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    That is a tinsel lead.

    I have known people to solder new ones on, you need to watch the length though, too short and it will break, too long and it will slap against spider or cone making a really bad sound.

    Some people use desoldering braid as a replacement although some soft wires may not be the best replacement as I have heard tinsel leads are dampened and fairly low Q so incorrect wires may have issues high up in the bass range.

    In the end there is nothing to loose in repairing a driver like this sometimes it pays off other times it does not.
     
  9. Nimby

    Nimby
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    How could you tell? :devil:
     

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