Answered Cambridge Audio Minx Air 200 - what is this blown SMD

[jknevitt]

Hi Guys,

This is my first post on this forum but hopefully there is someone more wise than myself that can help.

I have a Cambridge Audio Minx Air 200 which was working perfectly until one day it stopped making any sound. Everything functionally works, it shows as an airplay device and appears to be streaming successfully.

As it is out of warrenty Cambridge audio could not help at all, so..... to cut a long story short, I have taken it apart and found a blown surface mounted device. I guess it is a resistor and is located on the amplifier board just near the speaker outputs.

It would be a shame to have to throw it in the bin for such a simple device so I want to try and replace it but when it blew it took all identification markings from it. I have uploaded a picture of what is left of it.

Does anyone have any help on how I could identify the device and what the chances are of replacing it?

Or maybe there is a way round the issue?

Any help to rescue this poor device would be very much appreciated

James

 

[Cebolla]

May be take it to a (hopefully) local Restart Project Party?
Upcoming Parties - The Restart Project

 

[jknevitt]

May be take it to a (hopefully) local Restart Project Party?
Upcoming Parties - The Restart Project

Thanks Cebolla for the link, I think I might do that

 

[stevelup]

The component designator is L607 so that makes it an inductor.

If CA are unwilling to repair the device, perhaps they would at least be willing to tell you the component value? Might be worth giving them another prod.

 

[dannnielll]

It looks to me that the entire network is fried. There are two possibilities, the first that it is part of the power supply ,in which case there will only be one,or part of the amplifier circuitry in which case there will be an identical arrangement elsewhere. If here are no lights etc ,then it is part of the power supply.

 

[Jamie]

The component designator is L607 so that makes it an inductor.

It looks to me that the entire network is fried.

The inductor is absolutely mullered. I'd be surprised if it hasn't done any other damage, both to surrounding components and maybe even the tracks on the PCB itself.

 

[jknevitt]

The inductor is absolutely mullered. I'd be surprised if it hasn't done any other damage, both to surrounding components and maybe even the tracks on the PCB itself.

Yeah, I think there has been damage to the tracks, I removed the left over device from the board and this is what remains.

Maybe this will be very difficult to fix..

I have contacted CA again to see what else we can do but thank you for the help so far guys and I will keep you updated, maybe it will help someone else with a similar problem in the future.

Has anyone heard of this kind of problem with other CA products? I hope it is a one off issue rather than a common one?

 

[jknevitt]

It looks to me that the entire network is fried. There are two possibilities, the first that it is part of the power supply ,in which case there will only be one,or part of the amplifier circuitry in which case there will be an identical arrangement elsewhere. If here are no lights etc ,then it is part of the power supply.

Hi Dannnielll, there is no other instance of this component elsewhere on the boards.

For reference the component that has blown is on the lower of two boards. and have my understanding of the layout so far is like this:
Blown inductor (Red)
Speaker Outputs (Green)
External Connectors and WiFi/Bluetooth and everything else (Yellow)
Power Supply (Blue)

There are also no lights near this part, so I guess this is part is the power supply to the speaker amplifiers?

 

[RBZ5416]

Has anyone heard of this kind of problem with other CA products?

I've heard enough stories of instances of CA washing their hands of out of warranty kit to never buy another of their products. I did briefly own a Stream Magic 6 & asked them a technical question. They answered six months after I'd sold it.

 

[Olle T]

Hi!
Were you able to resolve the issues?

I have a similar problem with a component that is blown and I am wondering if you could help me identify it since it is not possible to read the text?

Sorry for my bad English btw.

Regards
Olle

 

[stevelup]

The only way you'll be able to identify that part would by by looking at an undamaged one on another board.

It's almost visible on the photo posted by @jknevitt - perhaps he can help!

I can't quite read it - even zooming in photoshop.

 

[Olle T]

Hi Stevelup!

Thanks for the response! I’m new to the forum and wondering if there is a PM function to send personal messages?

/Olle

 

[stevelup]

There is, just click the name, then choose ‘Start a Conversation’.

 

[Olle T]

Hi Stevelup!

I realized that I do not have the privilege to pm yet since I’m a new member on the forum and was wondering if you would mind Pm @jknevitt for me in order to bring attention to this thread?

I really feel this I solvable and I think he is my best shot at identifying the broken component. Thank you for your advise!

/Olle

 

[stevelup]

To be honest, you're wasting your time. He joined on Feb 22 to ask his question and has never logged onto the forum again since Feb 24.

 

[tomburke]

Hi All, first time posting on this forum. I had this problem with CA minx air 200. CA did provide the service manual. Unfortunately, the component value was not called out on the schematic or elsewhere in the bill of materials.
The service manual did tell me it was on the Vin line to a DC converter IC from Texas Instruments. The application notes for this IC did not specify a requirement for filtering of Vin. In my opinion, the L607 is an inductor but may be a ferrite bead. Some text suggest that there is no requirement for such filtering.
With all the information to hand and no value for the component other than package size, I removed the damaged component and replaced with a short across the two pads.
Luckily, after the unit was reassembled, it worked. Airplay, Bluetooth, MP3 phono inputs. Internet radio did not work.
it has been working for approximately 20h and hopefully will continue. In case it was a filter, I checked in the vicinity of other items such as tv, radio to see if there was any interference. None was apparent.
This has been my experience. I am not an electronics engineer so this post is for information sharing only. Thanks

 

[cdog10x3]

Hi there, similar problem here. There is power, buttons and both wireless connections are working but there's no sound coming out. Can anyone tell me how to disassemble this unit. The rear screws were not enough to open it up. In case there are frontal screws as well, please advise how to get to those without damaging the mesh.

 

[tomburke]

Hello. There are screws on the front of the unit, behind the mesh. You need to remove the mesh (Grille) by prising gently around its edges using a thin strong blade (much like opening a paint tin). The fasteners behind this are mostly socket head (requiring allen key). The bass driver speaker has phillips screws (x4). The 2x tweeter speakers have 4x phillips screws each. Note: these are hidden behind a thin adhesive backed bezel that you will need to remove first (using the same implement used to prise speaker grille. The service manual should be of some use (attached). Good luck!

 

[cdog10x3]

Hello. There are screws on the front of the unit, behind the mesh. You need to remove the mesh (Grille) by prising gently around its edges using a thin strong blade (much like opening a paint tin). The fasteners behind this are mostly socket head (requiring allen key). The bass driver speaker has phillips screws (x4). The 2x tweeter speakers have 4x phillips screws each. Note: these are hidden behind a thin adhesive backed bezel that you will need to remove first (using the same implement used to prise speaker grille. The service manual should be of some use (attached). Good luck!

Many thanks, managed to open it up with your help, but couldn't find anything visible, burned or blown on the main PCB. Although now that I've listened carefully there is a soft consistent static sound all the time after it's powered on and regardless my selections.

 

[tomburke]

Not sure if I can be of much more help other than to give you the location of the component that was visibly damaged in my case. Location is identified in the attachments. Best of luck!

 

[cdog10x3]

Not sure if I can be of much more help other than to give you the location of the component that was visibly damaged in my case. Location is identified in the attachments. Best of luck!

Hi again, it turned out to be that exact L607 inductor you suggested, just wasn't that visible in my case, like 3/4 still there, only 25% blown away. Question, have you also checked if the C670 cap. next to it was in short ? Mine looks like it is, perhaps that's how it's supposed to be ?

Attached pic from the manual as well.

PS: Removed whole filter, both L and C then only shorted the inductors space - supplying the regulator with the 32V, tested and as you said it works. Definitely, sound is coming out now !
Many thanks to you, Sir !

 

[tomburke]

Hi again, it turned out to be that exact L607 inductor you suggested, just wasn't that visible in my case, like 3/4 still there, only 25% blown away. Question, have you also checked if the C670 cap. next to it was in short ? Mine looks like it is, perhaps that's how it's supposed to be ?

Attached pic from the manual as well.

PS: Removed whole filter, both L and C then only shorted the inductors space - supplying the regulator with the 32V, tested and as you said it works. Definitely, sound is coming out now !
Many thanks to you, Sir !

Wow. Well done! I didn’t notice anything wrong with the capacitor C670 so I let it be. Delighted it worked out for you. Happy listening

 

[Jimbobarooni]

hi everyone, I have a similar problem with CA Minx Air 200, bought 2nd hand 5yrs ago. The power is all fine but when switching the Aux connections you have to wait 5mins sometimes longer for it to connect, there is then a bass thump and it will play fine. Though sometimes just turns itself off and you have to wait again to connect. I don’t want to chuck it or sell for parts, and wondered if taking apart and checking over but have no experience of rewriting board components. Any advice? Thanks!