Cambridge Audio Azur 540a 'protection' and system upgrade

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi Stereo Systems & Separates' started by AppleSauce, Aug 3, 2012.

  1. AppleSauce

    AppleSauce
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    I have a problem with my Cambridge Audio Azur 540A.

    I've had it nearly 4 years now and for the past year or so it has this annoying issue where, when I switch it on, the speakers have a loud pop and then it cuts off and the protection light flashes. It also happens when I have my headphones plugged in. It appears to be random, and can happen multiple times in a row until eventually it will work as normal.

    Does anyone know what the problem is? Is it the amp its self? I am running 2 B&W 685 from it, no sub.

    On a side note, I feel like I want to spend some money. I'm thinking a new amp now, and later some speakers. I have a £400 to £600 budget on an amp, with a view to spend £800 on some speakers in the future. I am aiming for a cinema setup, so would I benefit from perhaps a pair of 683s, and have the 685s at the back of the room? I also have a BK Monolith (I know) which I am not using at the moment because I am in a small room. I am moving to a new house soon with a larger room 12m by 19m and I am not sure the 685s will cut it.

    Any advice is much appreciated!
     
  2. Badger0-0

    Badger0-0
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    There has been (imo) an alarming amount of posts that say CA amps cut out for next to no reason over the last few years.
    I personally wouldn't touch one with a bargepole, fwiw.

    Hence I'd put that £400-600 into a quality secondhand amp.
    Just me though :)
     
  3. steveledzep

    steveledzep
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    Me too ! Musical Fidelity and Roksan immediately spring to mind.
     
  4. AppleSauce

    AppleSauce
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    Thanks for the advice guys.

    I've been looking at the Sony STR DN1030. I read the What Hifi review and they speak highly of it. Do you think it will be man enough to drive a pair of 685s and a pair of 683s? 683s are recommended to receive 25W to 200W. The DN1030 puts out 120W for each output. Will this work okay?

    Also, has anyone heard the DN1030 with B&W speakers? Any info is appreciated!

    On a side note: Where is the best place to buy B&W speakers? I got my other 685s from Super Fi, but I had a little discount from a friend. Unfortunately he doesn't work for them now. £999 for the 683's is pretty steep I think!
     
  5. The Real Neil

    The Real Neil
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    I have a CA Azure 540a and it too has been giving out that loud pop when you turn it on. I had it repaired, it was fine for a day or two and has come back. Even if I get it fixed (properly) now, I don't think I'll be able to relax. I certainly won't buy one of theirs again.
    I'm after an amp and speakers (I have an Arcam Alpha 7 CD) total I'm prepared to spend is £600
    I've read that the Arcam Alpha 8 amp is pretty good, as is the NAD C320BEE. Although I'd rather have the option to run 2 sets of speakers (the NAD doesn't). Also the Mission Cyrus - do you have to have the power supply with it or not?
    Many thanks if anyone has any tips.

    Neil
     
  6. bishopsfinger

    bishopsfinger
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    I suggest you wait until you move as, imo, you will need a very powerful amp (500wpc plus) to cope well in a room approx 39 feet by 62 feet.
     
  7. Ed Selley

    Ed Selley
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    Is there any pattern to where the volume control is when this happens?
     
  8. The Real Neil

    The Real Neil
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    Not sure if you were asking me or the other person with the Camb Audio issue. For myself it doesn't matter at all where the volume knob is at. It can happen from zero to quite high, although I never really tested it by turning it on with the vol set high because the pop that comes through the speakers is worrying. So I made sure the volume was always at zero when turning off and on.
    95% of the times it does it is when you turn on. You press ON, wait 2 seconds for the relay to switch and it either clicks or you get the boom and a red light. The other occasions it does it is when you are listening to music.
     

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