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CAlling out to Tosh **WH36 owners....HELP!

Discussion in 'TVs' started by DTS0077, Jun 14, 2004.

  1. DTS0077

    DTS0077
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    OK....I own a Toshiba 57WH36. I have had this since last year Nov.
    Great set, love it. Awesome quality....

    Recently I carried out the mechnical & electrical focus tweaks (using Demons guide). I am pretty sure this was successful as the grids are spot on...the centre is very sharp.

    Now last few days I have noticed a blue-ish outline (hazey) on objects especially white objects. As you move further away from the set this is less visible. Now when I go into the service menu & look at the convergence grid it is pretty much spot on. This problem doesnt show on everything eg. Return of the King when the goodies go to Isangard shots of gandalf in some places have blueish outline but other shots dont. This sounds like a convergence issue, some places ok others not but when I go check the grid its fine????? Help! :lease:
     
  2. DTS0077

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    Somebody reply......Lizzard? Demon?

    Could this be a mechnical focus thang?

    I also have noticed that dark objects have a bluey outline to them, only on one side. Its like someone drew a thin outline around the left side only. I saw this on Sky news last night. Funny thing is not all dvds, tv channels show this! I played blade 2 - this looked great. Monsters Inc looked unreal - no blue-ish outlines anywhere. Same with nemo. Plug in matrix reolutions & you start seeing them on dark objects!

    I dont understand, some white objects and alot of dark objects show this....
    could this be a NTSC issue. The pixar stuff I tried was PAL but blade 2 is NTSC.

    Help!
     
  3. Lizzard

    Lizzard
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    It's the blue for certain that you got problem with.

    The blue is "very" hard to get spot on, you need to know what you are looking for when tweaking the focus for it.

    The only reason i can think of is that you need to tweak the blue convergence harder to the green and red CRT more accurate.

    I think the best way to tweak the converge blue focus is against the red CRT as you see the color shift easier than with the white grid agains the green CRT.

    When adjusting blue focus, both electric and mechanical you should look for the lowest light output, you should really look when you see the brightness going down to a minimum, that's where you have the best focus on blue.

    Complete opposite to the greeen and red tweak.

    If you look very close and focused, you can see how the pixels of the screen lightens up brighter and brighter the more you get better focus and then gets dimmer and dimmer., you do this method also where you think the pixels are the brightest in the vertical gridline.

    It takes time and training to get a well trained eye when tweaking focus, may take a couple of times before you know what to really look for.

    However, the blue focus isn't that important to get exact focus because it doesn't affect the picture so much, but instead you get the halo problems around white objects as you describe.

    Solution to this is very hard convergence tweak and tighten the blue focus even harder.
     
  4. DTS0077

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    Thanks 4 replying....

    Ok so you recommend I do an electrical focus on the blue crt , then the mechnical focus the blue crt then check & tweak convergence grid????

    The bit I am not too sure about is:

    "When adjusting blue focus, both electric and mechanical you should look for the lowest light output, you should really look when you see the brightness going down to a minimum, that's where you have the best focus on blue."

    So basically I should look for the dimmest setting possible on both? How should I do this? Exactly what patterns should I have onscreen? I know for the mechnical focus I need the grid what about the electrical focus?

    What about a red halo? Same thing?

    "Complete opposite to the greeen and red tweak."
    For these 2 do I go for the brightest setting ie where the lines are the brightest? Does that go for both electrical & mechnical?

    Should I use a dvd where the problem is apparent as opposed to the gridlines for the elctrical focus test?

    ALSO in Demons guide he states you should use the cross hatch pattern for the electrical focus tweak, to be honest I didnt use that. I stayed with the gridlines. Is this where I messed up?

    What colour temp do you use? I found that COLD is best for me, more filmlike colours.

    Also some news for you guys.....in my quest for finding the perfect progressive scan dvd player I may have found one. An unlikely one.
    The new philips DVP720SA (12bit 108Mhz video dac). Progressive is a step up from the cambridge audio 540D. Amazing. Plays divx aswell! Easy multi region hack - use remote! SACD. Plays every disc I hav put in including dvd+rw. Still testing it but need to sort out this blue halo issue.

    Player cost £124. Quite a surprise. Only came out recently.
     
  5. Lizzard

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    Well, when tweaking blue focus you have the blue grid up and the red and green CRTs shut off.

    Same goes for green and red.

    Put the "HIT" setting higher, i run HIT at maximum to see the raster lines on blue gun.

    It's impossible to tweak the blue otherwise if you don't see the raster.

    For that you adjust "HIT" in servicemenu.

    Look in the center of the grid, you should see when adjusting focus that the brightness of the grid goes up and down, go for where there is the lowest light output at the same time observing the raster lines in the vertical gridline.

    For RED and GREEN you can turn "HIT" up to the value of "42H" which i do when i tweak the focus, in that setting you can see the rasterlines clearly in the vertical gridline.

    Adjust where you can see the rasterlines most clearly for red and green.

    Go forth and back between the mechanical and electric focus while observing where it is best, or concentrate on electric focus first to get the best, and then go for the mechanical fully.

    After that do a full convergence and geometry.

    You can print the templates i listed if you saw? print that on polyster film and then adjust geometry to that.

    Because, tweaking the focus affects the convergence AND geometry.
     
  6. DTS0077

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    Ok,

    So I can use the convergence grid for both mechnical & electrical focus?

    I only have issues with the blue so I shouldnt need to adjust the green or red?

    Another question, how much did that polyster film print cost? Where can i get it from? Any printing place?

    Thanks once again
     
  7. DTS0077

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    Lizzard,

    Out of interest what are your service menu settings for:
    HIT, VPOS, HPOS, WID?

    Since we have the same set I wonder what your settings are.....

    Also what about your contrast, brightness, colour, sharpness?

    Mine are:
    contrast 25,
    brightness 40,
    colour 40,
    sharpness -12

    Color Temp is COLD.
     
  8. Mikeg247

    Mikeg247
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    As Lizzard said the blue is extremely hard to get spot on. Just keep at it and i'm sure you'll remove this problem.
    My setting's are
    Contrast 40
    Brightness 40
    Colour 40
    Tint 0
    Sharpness 0
    Colour Temp Normal

    Mike
     
  9. DTS0077

    DTS0077
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    Mike,

    Another name I recognise from the tweaking WH36 union :clap:

    What are your service menu settings for:
    HIT, VPOS, HPOS, WID?

    Also, I have been re-reading all the tweak guides, there is one thing that confuses me, what is the difference between scanlines & gridlines?
     
  10. Mikeg247

    Mikeg247
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    HIT 04A4H
    28H 00101000B

    HPOS 04A2H
    32H 00110010B

    WID 04ABH
    4CH 01001100B

    Cant VPOS in my service menu :confused:
    If you put the TV into active/natural/100hz the lines you can see up close are scanlines.
    Gridlines are the lines you bring up in the service menu to carry out convergance.
    Mike
     
  11. DTS0077

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    Whoops, u r correct there is no VPOS! I just remembered....

    Ok, so scanlines should be visible in any mode except PROGRESS.

    So let me get this straight for electrical focus, ensure tv is in appropriate mode, go into service mode, bring up cross hatch & look into each pot looking for the scanlines where they are most pronounced. this goes for red & green but opposite for blue.

    The reason why I am asking I just dont rememeber seeing any scanlines!
    If I follow up the above willI see them? What do they look like? Faint lines?
     
  12. Mikeg247

    Mikeg247
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    When I did mine I striped the set, loosened the wing nuts and tied string on them. Then I put the screen back on. I then put the set into anything other than progressive and called up the service menu grids. You can then tweak the mechanical and electrical focus.
    This was you can tweak to your hearts content and view the results before rebuilding the set.
    Mike
     
  13. Mikeg247

    Mikeg247
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    Sorry yeah the scanlines are faint lines running horizontally. Get up close and you'll see them. Much easier with the screen on too.
    Mike
     
  14. DTS0077

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    Now that sounds like what I will do......

    Just hope I can see the "scanlines"! :confused:

    I take it your set doesnt suffer from my blue halo...then there is hope! :thumbsup:

    Thanks mate for the tips! Did u do that print Lizzard was talking about above?
     
  15. Mikeg247

    Mikeg247
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    No I haven't. What that will do is give you a template to place over the screen to line the gridlines up with. If your happy with the appearance of the image your getting (things dont look distorted) I wouldn't bother. But thats just my opinion.
    I think Lizzard has too much time on his hands and just loves tweaking :p

    Mike
     
  16. DTS0077

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    Any other tips for me as far as tweaking for this set is concerned?

    I wonder how much that grid will cost to print?
     
  17. Lizzard

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    RCUT 0410H
    41H 01000001B

    GCUT 0411H
    40H 01000000B

    BCUT 0412H
    3FH 00111111B

    RDRV 0413H
    32H 00110010B

    BDRV 0414H
    20H 00100000B

    BRTC 0416H
    8DH 10001101B

    SCNT 0466H
    0FH 00001111B

    COLP 046BH
    0CH 00001100B

    COLS 046CH
    0CH 00001100B

    SBY 0475H
    04H 00000100B

    SRY 0476H
    07H 00000111B

    ITT 04A0H
    02H 00000010B

    HPOS 04A2H
    33H 00110010B

    HIT 04A4H
    2BH 00101011B

    VLIN 04A5H
    11H 00010001B

    VCEN 04AAH
    95H 10001001B

    WID 04ABH
    4CH 01001100B

    AYOF 06CCH
    00H 00000000B

    ABOF 06CDH
    00H 00000000B

    AROF 06CEH
    00H 00000000B

    OPT3 0405H
    00H 00000000B

    CONTRAST 41
    BRIGHTNESS 43
    COLOUR 36
    SHARPNESS +7
    SCAN MODE "PROGRESS"
    DNR 1
    BLACK STRETCH "OFF"
    COLOUR TEMPERATURE "WARM"
    AUTO FORMAT "ON"
    BLUE SCREEN "OFF"
     
  18. Lizzard

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    I payed around £35 for both templates printed on polyester film.

    Pretty cheap eh? :D

    I also used doubled sided scotch 3M tape to fasten the film onto the screen.

    Lay the screen on a flat table and then put the film on and adjust for correct position with a ruler and then fasten one bit at a time with the tape.
     
  19. Lizzard

    Lizzard
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    I am unemployed right now, have very much time to tweak day and night :D
     
  20. Lizzard

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    I am going to order this product below one day when i have some more money to spend, with it you can tweak the greyscale to perfection, 6500 Kelvin!

    I would love to have that thing at home right now.

    http://www.milori.com/products/cf6500/
     
  21. DTS0077

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    35 quid! Thats quite a bit!

    Looks like you have tweaked the word tweak to a new tweaking level! :clap:

    I notice you have black stretch off, any reason why?
     
  22. Mikeg247

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    Take up a hobby mate, mabye watching films :D
    Mike
     
  23. DTS0077

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    Hey thats what my missus says to me! You always doing something to the TV apart from watching a movie!

    I'm like dont be silly! dvds are here to test your tweaking ability ;) not be watched!

    To be honest I have so many dvds I really do need to sort this out & start watching! there is around 60 minimum from this year alone that I gotta watch!
     
  24. Lizzard

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    Hey Mike, i have been investigation this thing with tweaking focus to perfection and was thinking that a professional light-meter calibration tool would be excellent.

    What do you think?

    http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage.pl?http://www.elfa.se/elfa/produkter/se/257219.htm
     
  25. Lizzard

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    I don't like "black stretch", it makes the picture so damn dark that some fine details go away in the picture.

    I noticed i get higher resolution by disabling it.
     
  26. Lizzard

    Lizzard
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    Also a recommendation from me is to not touch the lenses by trying to cleaning them with a cloth.

    I bought a ultra-microfiber cloth that shouldn't scratch, it does scratch.

    Most of the lenses are made of plastics which makes them extremely vulnerable, my recommendation would to blow the dirt off with clean air....
     
  27. DTS0077

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    To be honest I never disabled that! I think some major re-tweaking is due!
    Any good test discs you can recommend?
     
  28. Lizzard

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    Digital Video Essentials, PAL version is good but hard to navigate but you get used to it.

    Actually i regret i bought this TV as it drives me nuts, there is always something to calibrate and i never get satisfied...

    Heck, i have even polished the mirror in the back to perfection, how hard that was then, there is some plastic film on it so it smears when you polish it, but i have got it perfect now, shines like a million $$$.

    Don't gettoo deep into this as i did, eventually you end up with worse picture than you started with and you get nuts about it and starts cleaning the lenses.
     
  29. Mikeg247

    Mikeg247
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    Lizzard I think you have become obsessed ;)
    I wouldn't know what to do with that light meter thing.

    I too have black stretch off as It appeared to create picture noise.
    Mike
     
  30. DTS0077

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    "Actually i regret i bought this TV as it drives me nuts, there is always something to calibrate and i never get satisfied..."

    This is where I am probably heading! Maybe I should have just a DLP!

    My previous Tosh, 55" 4:3 set was awesome. One hell of a picture, didnt require much tweaking at all. This new set is quite the opposite but the picture after some tweaking is worth it.

    Just getting there is tricky...

    Hell I have a problem seeing scanlines! :rolleyes:

    What does colour temp do? How do you know one is correct?
     

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