Bose Frankenstein Sound System and it's issues

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
Hello Folks,

My goal is to have a simple, family friendly system that provides great audio/visual experience. I want the speakers to be not so noticeable, but with great sound.

I'm sort of a newbie for the most part to sound systems. I have a bit of a Frankenstein system I've put together that consists mainly of what I've been given for free by my dad. He gave me an old Acoustimass Bose 5.1 system ( from early 2000s ), a Denon receiver, and pretty good size bass. The bose system includes 5 double cube speakers and a subwoofer /controller/bypass thing. The receiver is a Denon AVR-1713 receiver. Now because of the layout of my living room which is an open concept with dining/kitchen , i decided against setting up the rear Bose speakers up as it would be behind the couch, between the space in the living room/dining and my kids would cause havoc with it. Instead i got a pair of Polk RC80i in-ceiling speakers because they'd have been in the middle of the room. I was lucky enough to have my house prewired for them so i just put them in and they've been great. They're what i wanted in that they're hard to notice visibly but the sound comes out super clear. The bass/mids in them isn't earth shaking but i'm okay with that.

The Bose are another story. The center speaker is feeling like it's constantly underwhelming with regards to dialogue. This is not an issue i remember having when my dad had his system set up with the Bose. Similarly at one point he had other in -ceiling speakers for the rear as well. The system is very old. That could be it. I know most audiophiles hate Bose. I'm not sure my ears are good enough to tell the difference. But now the system sounds very underwhelming especially in regards to dialogue from the center channel. If i put the sound up high where i can hear the dialogue clearly everything else gets a bit too loud as well. It sounds almost as bad as the cheap soundbar i had previously.

I'm fairly certain my settings on the Denon are accurate. It uses a setup Mic to adjust each speaker to the center of the room. I set up on the front speakers config on the receiver as "large" speaker option with the Denon with the rear as "small". I had a bass set up to the system but with my children (5 and 2) and with pressure from the wife about the bass just taking up playroom for the kids, i have since retired it in the garage for the time. The bass also i had a hard time getting to sound right as well. I can deal with the lack of bass for now. However, the speaker system is driving me nuts.

Since i have a new OLED LG tv, and my receiver isn't compatible with 4k, therefore i output from my TV to the receiver via an optical cord. We also use AppleTV a lot.

Additionally, my home has a drywall cutout for the TV/ Media console. A very large cutout, probably 9ft wide by 6.5 ft tall. About 3 feet in depth. It sits about 2 ft off the ground. This protrudes out of the house to give more living space inside. This is where my system is now.

Possible solutions: I'm suspecting my main problem is the Bose speakers and the dissonance between them and the rear speakers or the Bose and my receiver.
I have been thinking of getting tower speakers for the front right/left and then a matching center speaker. I'd imagine, if the Bose is the problem this should fix it. Also it would provide me with more bass without having to add the subwoofer in the home. However, my concern is the tower speakers would need to go in the tv/media cutout and the speakers would not be on the floor. Would this mess with the sound from the towers? Especially the bass.

While i'd love to upgrade this basic 5 pt sound system to more of an atmos, that's just not going to happen for quite some time. Probably not until i upgrade my house situation.
 

windfall

Active Member
Interestingly I’ve just sold my Onkyo and Bose 5.1 for a Sonos system which so far is excellent.
I started my audiophile life with a Yamaha DSP 3090 then A1 coupled with a lovely set of B&W’s all round.
Then split up with mrs, moved and couldn’t fit it all in! So I also went down the Acoustimass route which I thought was really good.
Only issue is cables - I’ve now killed off 50% of them and have a much tidier system.
right now I have a Sonos beam running with a pair of One SL’s on the rear and the sub and it’s awesome. New cabinet arriving today so the Arc will come out to play when thats
I’ve just pulled the trigger on a oled G1 which comes this weekend and with the whole hang on wall should look neat and tidy.

The tonal range of different speakers is going to be a challenge I would have thought but the whole wireless has always been a problem to me, but now in practice it’s a mute issue. Perhaps that’s the way to adapt but appreciate its quite expensive.
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
Hello Folks,

My goal is to have a simple, family friendly system that provides great audio/visual experience. I want the speakers to be not so noticeable, but with great sound.

I'm sort of a newbie for the most part to sound systems. I have a bit of a Frankenstein system I've put together that consists mainly of what I've been given for free by my dad. He gave me an old Acoustimass Bose 5.1 system ( from early 2000s ), a Denon receiver, and pretty good size bass. The bose system includes 5 double cube speakers and a subwoofer /controller/bypass thing. The receiver is a Denon AVR-1713 receiver. Now because of the layout of my living room which is an open concept with dining/kitchen , i decided against setting up the rear Bose speakers up as it would be behind the couch, between the space in the living room/dining and my kids would cause havoc with it. Instead i got a pair of Polk RC80i in-ceiling speakers because they'd have been in the middle of the room. I was lucky enough to have my house prewired for them so i just put them in and they've been great. They're what i wanted in that they're hard to notice visibly but the sound comes out super clear. The bass/mids in them isn't earth shaking but i'm okay with that.

The Bose are another story. The center speaker is feeling like it's constantly underwhelming with regards to dialogue. This is not an issue i remember having when my dad had his system set up with the Bose. Similarly at one point he had other in -ceiling speakers for the rear as well. The system is very old. That could be it. I know most audiophiles hate Bose. I'm not sure my ears are good enough to tell the difference. But now the system sounds very underwhelming especially in regards to dialogue from the center channel. If i put the sound up high where i can hear the dialogue clearly everything else gets a bit too loud as well. It sounds almost as bad as the cheap soundbar i had previously.

I'm fairly certain my settings on the Denon are accurate. It uses a setup Mic to adjust each speaker to the center of the room. I set up on the front speakers config on the receiver as "large" speaker option with the Denon with the rear as "small". I had a bass set up to the system but with my children (5 and 2) and with pressure from the wife about the bass just taking up playroom for the kids, i have since retired it in the garage for the time. The bass also i had a hard time getting to sound right as well. I can deal with the lack of bass for now. However, the speaker system is driving me nuts.

Since i have a new OLED LG tv, and my receiver isn't compatible with 4k, therefore i output from my TV to the receiver via an optical cord. We also use AppleTV a lot.

Additionally, my home has a drywall cutout for the TV/ Media console. A very large cutout, probably 9ft wide by 6.5 ft tall. About 3 feet in depth. It sits about 2 ft off the ground. This protrudes out of the house to give more living space inside. This is where my system is now.

Possible solutions: I'm suspecting my main problem is the Bose speakers and the dissonance between them and the rear speakers or the Bose and my receiver.
I have been thinking of getting tower speakers for the front right/left and then a matching center speaker. I'd imagine, if the Bose is the problem this should fix it. Also it would provide me with more bass without having to add the subwoofer in the home. However, my concern is the tower speakers would need to go in the tv/media cutout and the speakers would not be on the floor. Would this mess with the sound from the towers? Especially the bass.

While i'd love to upgrade this basic 5 pt sound system to more of an atmos, that's just not going to happen for quite some time. Probably not until i upgrade my house situation.

I think the Bose manual warns that you shouldn´t connect them directly to receiver cause they are so different and should be always used with the subwoofer that comes with the package and the speakers are connected to that subwoofer. I think all speakers are then set as large as the manual says. It`s very different to other systems. I can imagine they will sound very anemic playing from ~200hz upwards without subwoofer. I would talk with wife again if you can get the sub there somehow.

I don´t like the idea with the tower speakers in tv/media cutout, of course without pictures can`t "see it", but it doesn´t sound ideal. There is small subwoofers available with nice room friendly finish of your like plus the driver can be downfiring which means it´s safe from kids and look more like small wooden furtniture. See below examples:



Ideally you would then buy at least bookshelf speakers and center channel. Or could some wall mounted bookshelf speaker size model work better, google example Dali Oberon On-Wall and Dali Oberon Vokal.
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
The tonal range of different speakers is going to be a challenge I would have thought but the whole wireless has always been a problem to me, but now in practice it’s a mute issue. Perhaps that’s the way to adapt but appreciate its quite expensive.
My brothers have Sonos system and it sounds pretty good. It's a nice "fuller" sound to me. Fortunately, i don't really have a problem with the wires for the speakers since most of the front is in the same cutout, it's not noticeable. Then the back speakers are in the ceiling and hidden well. Sonos does sound good to me but boy it's not cheap!


I think the Bose manual warns that you shouldn´t connect them directly to receiver cause they are so different and should be always used with the subwoofer that comes with the package and the speakers are connected to that subwoofer. I think all speakers are then set as large as the manual says. It`s very different to other systems. I can imagine they will sound very anemic playing from ~200hz upwards without subwoofer. I would talk with wife again if you can get the sub there somehow.

I don´t like the idea with the tower speakers in tv/media cutout, of course without pictures can`t "see it", but it doesn´t sound ideal. There is small subwoofers available with nice room friendly finish of your like plus the driver can be downfiring which means it´s safe from kids and look more like small wooden furtniture. See below examples:

The Bose speakers are connected to the bose subwoofer/sound processor thing that comes with it. So the wire connection goes AV receiver > bose subwoofer > bose speaker for the L/C/R channels. On the receiver the speakers up front are set to " Large " for the full signal. My surrounds are connected directly to the receiver though as they're not Bose. The sound problem primarily coming from the Bose isn't so much the mids or loud scenes which still is underwhelming but it is usually the quieter scenes with dialogue that is missing the clarity and projection you want. I have been thinking about it and my living room has the appearance of being small since most of it is around 13ft wide. But it has an open mouth as it opens to dining room directly behind it and the kitchen to the left of it which would mean room goes from around 13 ft wide for 10 ft or so to about 30 ft wide and 30 ft long. Perhaps the speakers are just too small for the dimensions of the room.

I've attached a photo of the cutout.
1621876364545.png
It is a very solid cutout. It completely protrudes from the side of the house. I've been thinking the towers would help fill up some of this empty space inside the cutout and out of reach of children and it may make up for some of my lack of bass right now. Getting the subwoofer out right now, with all the room the kids stuff takes up is a bit of an uphill battle given that we are both minimalists with tons of kids crap all over already. Doesn't help they loved climbing on it and jumping off the sub when it was out. When they are a bit older i will for sure be taking it out. I look forward to that day.

I appreciate all and any help/feedback/recommendations.
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
Any thoughts on the cutout? Is putting tower speakers up there a cardinal sin?

If you would buy tower speakers the tweeters would sit too high vs. seated ear height as the tweeters should be ideally close to your ears. I wonder what is the height from (outside) floor to the low part of that cutout where the av-unit and sub sits on? I would rather buy some low height speaker stands or if you could continue the cabinet with similar finish wooden furnitures each side then speakers on top of that assuming the height is ok. I`m terrible guessing height so you need to measure it. Normal speaker stands are 600mm tall so that is the height roughly to have speakers. Sadly that would mean no space for subwoofer. So speakers each side by the tv with stands, although i would have wanted to use the whole width available so placed the speakers with stands literally all the way to sides and pushed them forward some. I think there is some things so you can round the speakers over the stands or use blutack under so if kids go poking speakers they won´t fall easily. I would make sure though that kids won´t have any business touching there or playing near there. Still bit puzzled if you can´t get the sub out though. You could opt for downfiring sub so it`s basically one heavy (28kg) wooden cabinet, kid/pet safe. Real wood veneer finish. Put plant on top of it so kids won´t climb on it, your wife will make sure they won`t touch if she put`s some plant/decor stuff on top of it. Example the P12 model i mentioned, click on below link to see better pictures of walnut which is closest to your av-unit:
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
I wonder what is the height from (outside) floor to the low part of that cutout where the av-unit and sub sits on?

From the floor to the cutout is 22.5 inches. The speakers i was looking at are Jamo's s809 for the tower speakers. The tweeter there is around 39 inches in height meaning the tweeter would be around 5ft. With our couch we probably have ear level around 4 ft I'd think.

1623345199588.png


However, I think i could place a downfiring sub behind my couch ( prewired on the wall there too ) and like you said put a plant on top of it, that may work. My wife would go for that i think. I'd probably spend less for bookshelf speakers vs the tower speakers.

Would putting bookshelf speakers where the existing L/C/R Bose speakers now be too close together on the TV stand?

Thanks again for the feedback and help.
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
From the floor to the cutout is 22.5 inches. The speakers i was looking at are Jamo's s809 for the tower speakers. The tweeter there is around 39 inches in height meaning the tweeter would be around 5ft. With our couch we probably have ear level around 4 ft I'd think.

View attachment 1525902

However, I think i could place a downfiring sub behind my couch ( prewired on the wall there too ) and like you said put a plant on top of it, that may work. My wife would go for that i think. I'd probably spend less for bookshelf speakers vs the tower speakers.

Would putting bookshelf speakers where the existing L/C/R Bose speakers now be too close together on the TV stand?

Thanks again for the feedback and help.

I think you could do much better than those Jamos. I have read some professional reviews from them when they were in group test, not the best in class really... Also i would measure where your ears really are, sit down on couch and ask wife to measure from floor then you know. 22,5" is quite close to regular speaker stand height (23,6" = 600mm) so you don´t need tall stands.

Yep they would be too close with the cabinet. If you could get stands or some sturdy units of same height as your av-cabinet then you could spread the mains apart good amount, although i would push everything forward. I don´t like the idea of speakers directly in corners / against the walls even if you would use port bungs (those soft things you put behind the speaker ports).

Great to hear if the sub could go behind the couch (nearfield) or example rear corner so quite close to couch probably. Then wife put´s something nice on top and it blends in like a furniture! The DF driver orientation is quite ideal then. You have quite massive room i mean the total volume with openings, but at least consider the model i linked. I wouldn´t choose anything smaller there. The sealed BK offers one of the best bang for buck.

Of course there is taller options in DF if you looking more physical impact, but not sure would wife agree to it. Check below the legendary Monolith which can be used as couch sidetable. 80£ more than P12 in walnut veneer.

Monolith Dimensions: 420D X 604H x 540W
P12-300SB Dimensions: 400D x 460H x 400W
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
So i have successfully sold my wife on a DF subwoofer behind the couch. Should be able to easily hide any wires to it. I probably won't be getting one from that website as they're going to be a bit out of my price range. I've seen some acoustic audio ones around 150 for a 12 inch. I don't need anything drastic.

Looking at Klipsch R-41's or 51's for bookshelf for R/L: channels with a Klipsch R52 Center channel. Now looking into the speaker stands which will be the next thing to sell wifey on. Trying to keep my general cost for around $500 or under.
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
So i have successfully sold my wife on a DF subwoofer behind the couch. Should be able to easily hide any wires to it. I probably won't be getting one from that website as they're going to be a bit out of my price range. I've seen some acoustic audio ones around 150 for a 12 inch. I don't need anything drastic.

Looking at Klipsch R-41's or 51's for bookshelf for R/L: channels with a Klipsch R52 Center channel. Now looking into the speaker stands which will be the next thing to sell wifey on. Trying to keep my general cost for around $500 or under.

Oh sorry i somehow thought you were from UK. :facepalm: Seriously though don´t buy cheap boom box. Typical mistake. They sound horrible and the amp will barely last the warranty period. You do get better build and sound quality the more you pay for and of course better performance typically plus nicer finish/look. Usually the 500$ range is the bare minium when you start to get some real quality stuff with subwoofers. But there is some decent ones at 350-400$ mark like the Polk HTS 12 which is on sale now. But sadly i don´t know any decent quality sub which has down firing driver and doesn´t cost much..
Amazon product
The question is though will it need to be DF if the subwoofer goes behind the couch as the driver can point toward couch which is very typical scenario for many guys?!

I think you could do better than the Klispch R range also. They were measured some time ago and looked inside. Very cheaply made speakers with overly bright sound. Example the Polks Signature range should be lot more natural sounding, one of the favourites there in US for the budget stuff. Either S20 or S15 depending of size restrictions with the S30 center channel. They are fairly cheap and liked by most people. Seriously there is lot of reviews, youtube vids, reddit has zillion owners too etc. Do some research of them and tell me what you think!

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Amazon product
Amazon product
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
T
Oh sorry i somehow thought you were from UK. :facepalm: Seriously though don´t buy cheap boom box. Typical mistake. They sound horrible and the amp will barely last the warranty period. You do get better build and sound quality the more you pay for and of course better performance typically plus nicer finish/look. Usually the 500$ range is the bare minium when you start to get some real quality stuff with subwoofers. But there is some decent ones at 350-400$ mark like the Polk HTS 12 which is on sale now. But sadly i don´t know any decent quality sub which has down firing driver and doesn´t cost much..
Amazon product
The question is though will it need to be DF if the subwoofer goes behind the couch as the driver can point toward couch which is very typical scenario for many guys?!

I think you could do better than the Klispch R range also. They were measured some time ago and looked inside. Very cheaply made speakers with overly bright sound. Example the Polks Signature range should be lot more natural sounding, one of the favourites there in US for the budget stuff. Either S20 or S15 depending of size restrictions with the S30 center channel. They are fairly cheap and liked by most people. Seriously there is lot of reviews, youtube vids, reddit has zillion owners too etc. Do some research of them and tell me what you think!

Amazon productAmazon product
Amazon product
Amazon product
Thank you for the recommendations. I'm pretty pretty much new blood to speakers like this. I have always liked Polk speakers as they've always seemed to be decent quality IMO and they'd match my in-ceilings. The DF sub is ideal because it'd allow me to easily hide the 1 side of the sub that's exposed to children tampering and hidden from view. I suppose i may be able to sell my velodyne sub retired in my garage.

What do you think about this? Klipsch Reference R-8SW Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
T

Thank you for the recommendations. I'm pretty pretty much new blood to speakers like this. I have always liked Polk speakers as they've always seemed to be decent quality IMO and they'd match my in-ceilings. The DF sub is ideal because it'd allow me to easily hide the 1 side of the sub that's exposed to children tampering and hidden from view. I suppose i may be able to sell my velodyne sub retired in my garage.

What do you think about this? Klipsch Reference R-8SW Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield

Yeah check the Polk Signature range speakers. They look better and should also sound better than the Klipsches.

The R-8SW is heavily ovepriced as the 12" version can be got under 200$ at Amazon. Also it´s too small making it nearly useless for your open plan room.

I think it´s best to stick with front firing sub and place it inside the cutout, but you need to have similar height furniture on other side so you could use the subwoofer as stand for the speaker. If money weren´t issue you could buy two subs each side and use em stands. There just isn´t any decent quality DF products within your budget to have the sub behind the couch. I`m having trouble to find anything decent, all are FF. There is PR models so the active driver is down firing and the radiator is front firing so could be positioned so the front driver/mask wouldn´t be visible, but the wires will be visible back of sub then... If you have picture of the couch area and where the sub cable comes, post that here as hard to imagine without seeing.

What was the deal with the Velodyne sub, why you can´t use that one? Which exact model it is? Quality brand.
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
It's a Velodyne CT120 sub. It's a great sub. Very powerful. The thing can rock my house. But it's a bit too big to fit into the cutout without looking out of place and when i put it on the side of my couch it became a part my kids playground and now that space is occupied by a toy kitchen. The front side of the speaker also drew too much attention from the kids with the mesh and the port as did the backside. I do really like the idea of getting a DF sub and hiding it with a plant. Behind the couch is an ideal situation. I can keep the Velodyne and once we either move or kids get older can have two subs in the system.

For $156 that 12inch acoustics audio DF sub is extremely tempting. Even if it's just a temporary solution. It seems to have good feedback and reviews for a budget. Also considering making my own "box".

Those Polks do seem to have great reviews from everything I've looked up. Wifey likes the look of them and if I got a nice looking stand to put them on it may fill in a bit of that empty cutout space nicely and cohesively. They may be the first replacement I make to the system.
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
It's a Velodyne CT120 sub. It's a great sub. Very powerful. The thing can rock my house. But it's a bit too big to fit into the cutout without looking out of place and when i put it on the side of my couch it became a part my kids playground and now that space is occupied by a toy kitchen. The front side of the speaker also drew too much attention from the kids with the mesh and the port as did the backside. I do really like the idea of getting a DF sub and hiding it with a plant. Behind the couch is an ideal situation. I can keep the Velodyne and once we either move or kids get older can have two subs in the system.

For $156 that 12inch acoustics audio DF sub is extremely tempting. Even if it's just a temporary solution. It seems to have good feedback and reviews for a budget. Also considering making my own "box".

Those Polks do seem to have great reviews from everything I've looked up. Wifey likes the look of them and if I got a nice looking stand to put them on it may fill in a bit of that empty cutout space nicely and cohesively. They may be the first replacement I make to the system.

Yep those Polks do get great feedback. My money would be on S20 mains and S30 center channel.

What about the Velodyne behind the couch/front corner and disguise it? Build something around it to keep wife happy. Put the plant on top so kids won´t go jumping on it. It shouldn´t have bottom part and driver & port not blocked assuming you run it port open. Good example below by @DLxP with massive Arendal subwoofer which has port at back, but i assume there is port bung used so sealed mode. Some type of fabric in front of driver is ok.

1594055164075-png.1330089


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NewbGuy77

Standard Member
I pulled the trigger on the Polk signatures s20 and s30. They should be arriving in a week or so. I think i will try to build my own box to hide the Velodyne sub i have. Is there another alternative to the mesh screens i may be able to use instead? I feel a more enclosed box may help hide a bit more whats in there from the kids.
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
I pulled the trigger on the Polk signatures s20 and s30. They should be arriving in a week or so. I think i will try to build my own box to hide the Velodyne sub i have. Is there another alternative to the mesh screens i may be able to use instead? I feel a more enclosed box may help hide a bit more whats in there from the kids.
Hope you like them, if you used Amazon you have return period so quite risk free purchase. The feedback is really strong on those, well made speakers for the price and smooth sound not overly bright or anything like that.

I don´t know if there is any other things. If you are going to be running it port open then you can´t "hide" it, the port must be visible at least. And the subwoofer should ideally be laying on floor or it will rattle the cabinet you put it on. Also make sure the rear part has enough space / air ventilation for the amplifier which will run warm.

THX-Ultra2-Lifestyle_(2)_635042275127530000.jpg



If you can use port bung and run the Velodyne sealed then you can hide it like this, see posts #4 and #20 in the thread below:


Another example here, Velodyne it seems.

3a6ec0dc_vbattach204925.jpeg


3ee3e9d6_vbattach204926.jpeg
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
So i got the S20's today and set up for R/L. The S30 is to be here in about a week so i am just running the R/L speakers without a Center for the time being ( disabled the center channel ). This allowed me to move out the bose immediately. Instantly, i notice the sound is much "fuller" and seems to harmonize a bit more between the front speakers and the rears and fills up the space much better. I'm really looking forward to the Center speaker in there.


Things going according to plan except for a small oversight on my part. The AV receiver only has an RCA type out for the sub. I thought it also had an option for traditional speaker wires for that and the plan was to hook them up to the wires already routed in my wall to the receptacle literally right where the sub would go. However, that is all ran as only traditional speaker wire. Here are a few pics.


IMG_0101.jpg
IMG_0098.jpg


1624750119402.png





Can I use a connection like this to bridge the gap so to speak? Will i lose anything?

1624750536444.png
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
But if i don't want to run an RCA cable through my walls but use the existing speaker wire which is already routed exactly where i want the subwoofer, will i lose quality or information if i use a connector like this change the signal output from RCA to traditional speaker wire?

1624917127607.png
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
I haven´t seen that type of connect method earlier so perhaps @noiseboy72 as more expert in this area can comment to be sure is it possible / is there downsides to it etc.
 

noiseboy72

Distinguished Member
Is the speaker cable in the wall shielded? The picture isn't clear. If so, you may be able to get away with using the bare wire to phono adapters, but if it's just like conventional speaker or mains cable, there's a good chance it will get induced noise, so mains hum etc. Critical question is length. How long is the cable?

One thing to try is using the line level connection at the AVR (With the phono adapter you have shown) and connecting it to the speaker connection on the sub. You will need to set the sub level output on the AVR to its maximum level and you may need to crank the volume on the sub, but this might just work for you.

If there's hum and interference, you may need to consider another option. Easy solution is to use the high level connection and wire them to your main front speakers, as speaker level connections are much less susceptible to induced noise, but you may miss out on some real "Sub" moments with films, as the sub channel is not generally mixed into the Left / Right channels when the sub channel is deleted.

Another option would be to use some balancing transformers to send the signal as a balanced line. This reduces interference and is quite easy to do. One of these at each end is all you need: ART DTI Passive | DI Box | GAK Use the Phono connections for the Sub & AVR and link between using the XLR connections. You will need to fit some XLR connectors to your cabling, but this should be simple to do. You would just use the signal pins - 2&3 and ignore the earth. This will "balance" the signal and run it in a similar method to telephone lines - which can run for miles without interference at quite low levels. Ideally you want twisted pair cable, but for short distances, this is often a good solution.

Food for thought..
 

NewbGuy77

Standard Member
Is the speaker cable in the wall shielded? The picture isn't clear. If so, you may be able to get away with using the bare wire to phono adapters, but if it's just like conventional speaker or mains cable, there's a good chance it will get induced noise, so mains hum etc. Critical question is length. How long is the cable?

One thing to try is using the line level connection at the AVR (With the phono adapter you have shown) and connecting it to the speaker connection on the sub. You will need to set the sub level output on the AVR to its maximum level and you may need to crank the volume on the sub, but this might just work for you.

If there's hum and interference, you may need to consider another option. Easy solution is to use the high level connection and wire them to your main front speakers, as speaker level connections are much less susceptible to induced noise, but you may miss out on some real "Sub" moments with films, as the sub channel is not generally mixed into the Left / Right channels when the sub channel is deleted.

Another option would be to use some balancing transformers to send the signal as a balanced line. This reduces interference and is quite easy to do. One of these at each end is all you need: ART DTI Passive | DI Box | GAK Use the Phono connections for the Sub & AVR and link between using the XLR connections. You will need to fit some XLR connectors to your cabling, but this should be simple to do. You would just use the signal pins - 2&3 and ignore the earth. This will "balance" the signal and run it in a similar method to telephone lines - which can run for miles without interference at quite low levels. Ideally you want twisted pair cable, but for short distances, this is often a good solution.

Food for thought..
I'm fairly certain that the wire is shielded but I'm not at home now to verify. I remember a shiny aluminum looking wrap around the wires. These wires were pre-installed in my home when it was built.. My surround in ceiling speakers uses them and it has absolutely no hum or interference in them at all.

The cable has to be around 30 ft if i had to guess. Again it's all in the walls but i'm judging from the distance up the wall and up the ceiling and then down other wall. It's probably around 30-40 ft or less.
 

noiseboy72

Distinguished Member
Can you take another picture of the cable?

Speakers won't hum, or get interference as the impedance is too low. At those lengths, the cable will need to be shielded.
 

noiseboy72

Distinguished Member
Yes, that looks like shielded cable.

There should be a thin "drain" wire - an unjacketed wire running along with the foil shield. Connect the outside of the phono plug to this and the inner to any one of the other cables.
 

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