A time lag, or time delay fuse delays tripping of the fuse for a number of seconds to allow the high amps start up so the fuse will not trip or blow.Also what is the difference between a time delay and a time lag fuse?
Quick wiki reveals
"LBC fuses on the other hand are designed for situations where the maximum fault current is likely to be less than 10 times the rated fuse current. They typically have a glass body in which the fuse wire can clearly be seen, making it very easy to see if the fuse has blown. LBC fuses are designated "L"."
The fuse im replacing is about 18 years old. Both are glass fuses with virtually identical size.
Possibly the nomenclature has changed but the fuse is the same?
edit: the original fuse has coloured banding thick blue line, red line, black line, red line.
Replacement is clear. Haven't seen a reference to this colour banding is it no longer used?
Try the correct fuse. You've nothing to lose apart from you life, home and possessionswell hmm my own fault. I ran some much larger hifi speakers than its probably meant to run and poof..
I just tried the T1AL even though I shouldn't have and it smoked it in 2 seconds.
Amp fried or try again with the right fuse?
Given the age of your amp, I'd say your assumption is correct and it would probably cost you more than you'd want to pay just to find the fault.Just blew 2 of the correct fuses in a row.
Can I assume something was seriously damaged and would prob be an expensive repair?
This sounds very likely, but I've no idea of how much it would cost to rectify.This is a bi-amp su-ch9. I think the thing (LA4282) with the thermal paste that has gone bubbly is an amp outputting 10W to the tweeters. Only I hooked it up to non-biamp speakers and burnt it out driving them?
Anyone know a good hifi repair forum?