Question Best DIY sub options for new room

Discussion in 'DIY Speaker & Subwoofer Building' started by DougAP, Sep 13, 2017.

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  1. DougAP

    DougAP
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    Sorry in advance for the length of what follows... I got carried away.

    Having sold my entire system as part of a house move, I'm back to the drawing board. Quite literally: until the move's complete, all I can do is plan new AV adventures.

    Mercifully, I've managed to convince SWMBO that we don't need a dining room on top of a kitchen-diner in the new house. So ... the dining room will instead be a snug/small cinema ... and it'll need a sub/subs. I've just sold two USC15s and had resigned myself to anemic bass (or, rather, just less impressive bass). However, now that I'll have a semi-dedicated room again (i.e. not the living room I expected I'd have to use), on the detached side of the house, I'm starting to think all might not be lost...

    The room's (H/W/D) 225/361/305cm. I've drafted a very rough sketchup (measurements are slightly out). Point A is where the main sub has to go. Room Sim doesn't suggest that this will be a terrible spot (unless I'm mistaken). Point B is where a second, smaller, nearfield sub could go.

    In both cases the subs would have to be very discrete, as the Mrs doesn't want to see AV (and, frankly, to a degree, nor do I) - so I'm thinking DIY subs disguised as side tables.

    Questions on which I'd very much appreciate advice, based on a max budget of approx £1000 for the main sub and amp, and less (undecided quite how much) for a second smaller sub, if I decide to go for one:

    1. What driver sizes should I be looking at? My priorities are tight, controlled bass and tactile feel rather than sub-15Hz authority. I was thinking 18" at point A, and perhaps 12" at point B.

    2. Following above, what drivers should I consider?

    3. Is it sensible to have a sub at point B? My thinking with having a sub there is it would add tactile sensation, as well as perhaps address a dip around 50Hz at the MLP (roughly the middle of the sofa)

    4. I'm thinking iNuke NU3000DSP - is this sensible? My reason for this is I absolutely must be able to trigger the amp (via a triggered power socket), and I gather the 3000 doesn't thump when disconnected (unlike the 6000). If I need two, that's fine.

    I've had a fair old read of posts about DIY subs, but I'm a total noob on this front, so if any of the above is misguided do let me know/set me straight. The aim is to start cutting wood in about two month's time, so I've got ages to figure out the best approach.
     

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    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  2. markymiles

    markymiles
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    What are the size constraints if any for sub A. With a £1000 at your disposal you could get any number of 18" drivers from monster spl subs to PA type subs and all inbetween. I should be getting a pair of bms18n862's at the end of the week so I can give you my thoughts on those. I have had a few other 18" too.

    Not sure what you've read about the thump from inuke 6000's but I don't get that on either of mine. I take it you did on your usc subs? Obviously there are other amps out there that may have a trigger on them.

    Sub B may provide a little tactile effect but really it needs to be much nearer to mlp, assuming thats the middle seat. No chance of moving the sofa forward a touch and having a shallow 12"or two behind?
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  3. mattkhan

    mattkhan
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    IIRC the dsp version thumps, non dsp doesn't.

    I agree with Mark that a single sub at the end will concentrate tactile effect on that end seat, you may or may not like that. You could either do a low profile under seat build or you could go for a low profile build that can slot in between the wall and the sofa (and have 2 of them, one at each end).
     
  4. DougAP

    DougAP
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    I'll have a fair bit of room to work with. The absolute limits are H x W x D = 50 x 90 x 90. One of those 90s is the distance between the sofa and the screen wall, which I'd prefer for aesthetic reasons to keep to about 60. So essentially I wouldn't want it much larger than 50 x 60 x 90.

    I'd be very interested to hear. I just had a look at them on databass and they sound interesting (although, I'm still learning, so t/s parameters don't yet translate fully to me). What's the logic of going with those - cleaner mid bass?

    I noticed you've just sold your SI HT18 D4, and read through your build. Were you happy with those? The SI drivers seem decent value, although I'm not sure what their availability is like.

    I take it you think 18" is the best bet for that space rather than 15"?

    Yep, I had the thump with my USCs, so always turned it on and off manually - something I want to avoid with the next amp/subs.

    That makes sense then - mine was the DSP version. Perhaps I should go for the non-DSP version then. I'm not too fussed about DSP on the amp as I'll probably get the MiniDSP 2x4 for time aligning multiple subs, and will have RC on the AVR.

    No chance of moving the seat forward; it has to be against the back wall. It's a compromise I'm having to make to maximise the usable space in the room ... it also means no surround backs :( I'll already (probably) be losing 10cm to a stud wall for running in-wall LCR.

    Very useful advice re tactile effect - thanks. You're right that the MLP will be the middle of the sofa. Maybe I could do something under the seat, depending on how the sub at point A works out. Perhaps I'll hold fire on the sub at point B, and first wait to see what I get from the one at point A. Even without tactile effect I'd probably want a sub at point B eventually just to smooth out the response.
     
  5. markymiles

    markymiles
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    Re the SI HT drivers, I was happy with those. They are great drivers and fantastic value for money.

    Downsides they prefer a larger box, although you can make up for that with power and eq.

    As I now have PA type speakers all round I'm curious to try the BMS due to the increased top end and the lightweight cone which I think should make them better for music. They also can be run with a high crossover which I'm curious to try. I'm getting less concerned these days with ULF due to limited opportunities and have NF subs that wobble the couch when needed. Like you I read the databass review a long time ago and have been intrigued ever since.
     
  6. DougAP

    DougAP
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    Thanks v. much for the info. I think they're top of my list at the moment mainly due to their price + performance. There seems to be a lot of praise for them online. My instinct is that, if I can get decent performance for relatively cheap, I'll go with that seeing as it'll be my first build and something might go wrong (hopefully not).
     
  7. richardsim7

    richardsim7
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    Weird, I don't recall a thump when I had the 6000, maybe I just have a bad memory :)

    I have seen mods for a 12V trigger for the iNuke range, but never bothered to do it myself, would have been nice to have though
     
  8. DougAP

    DougAP
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    It definitely thumped for me when turned off at the mains. Had it not been for that I'd have bought a triggerable power socket.

    Yea, I read a few comments about possible mods. The only ones I found were internal and invalidated the warranty, not that that would bother me much. If the non-DSP version doesn't thump that seems the easiest option.
     
  9. DougAP

    DougAP
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    I think I've more or less go this down to, in order of preference:

    SI HT18 V2 - currently awaiting a price plus shipping from Sundown Audio, although I'm guessing landed, plus customs & VAT, will likely be around £300

    UXL18 - Mach 5 quoted me $840CAD inc shipping, which is about £620 delivered

    Fi SP418 - £589 delivered.

    Of those, I think I could discount the SP4 on the basis that the UXL18 seems better on paper (from my novice reading of the ts parameters) and only a trivial amount more, so worth spending the extra.

    The SI seems so much better value than the UXL though - I could have two for the same price. @markymiles I see you've had both - would you say the UXL18 is worth the extra?

    Are there any others I'm ignoring that I should consider?
     
  10. mattkhan

    mattkhan
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    do you have space for 2?
     
  11. DougAP

    DougAP
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    I reckon I could, just about, do it.

    I was thinking of going smaller for point B, but I might just be able to fit in another 18", assuming it was around about a 50cm cube (haven't modeled the sub in WinISD yet so not sure how feasible that is).
     
  12. mattkhan

    mattkhan
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    so maybe 100L? seems a bit small for a HT18 so may not be optimal, can use EQ though. I forget what size box @markymiles used for his, maybe it was about that size.
     
  13. DougAP

    DougAP
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    I think it was about 125l inc bracing. I don't think I could quite do that. Perhaps best to stick with plan A then for the time being: one 18" at point A, and perhaps a 12 or possibly 15 at B, depending on the response I get from one sub.

    Hmm, if I'm only going to have one, the UXL's a bit more tempting...
     
  14. markymiles

    markymiles
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    Sorry for some reason I didn't get notified when I was quoted on here.

    I had around 125l for the SI HT's and 85l for the UXL. The UXL was ideal in that size, the SI was a bit undersized really. Nothing that power and eq couldn't sort out.

    Depends on your room and constraints. If it were me and you are only getting one get the UXL. :devil:Although I had two, I also ran one on it's own for a while and that was still potent enough.

    I did run 4 SI's vs the two UXL's and even though the SI's had the edge in output I still preferred the UXL's.

    Later on when you can afford it get another UXL, job done. Should be fine in a 50cm cube at point B.
     
  15. DougAP

    DougAP
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    No worries. And thanks - that's just the kind of feedback I was looking for.

    Well, that tips the balance then. I was definitely leaning towards the UXL, but that swings it.

    @mattkhan I noticed you recently offered some UXLs for sale, along with a cab+amp. Would you consider selling one of the drivers on its own? No worries if not - figured I check first though.
     
  16. thomasjohnflynn

    thomasjohnflynn
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    Hi Doug, I actually purchased the uxl from mark and then a second from Matt. They are an excellent driver, the other day I realised that I had only been running one of them for a week as the inuke power cable had some loose. I will be honest, I hadn't noticed.
     
  17. DougAP

    DougAP
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    Sounds good - I'm definitely decided on getting one. Unless I can find one through the Forum, which seems unlikely really, I'll probably order mine from Canada in the next week or so :D
     
  18. mattkhan

    mattkhan
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    I was changing the cab so I figured I would offer the whole thing fully loaded to see if anyone wanted it. I'm not selling the drivers alone now as I'm using them for NF duty.
     
  19. DougAP

    DougAP
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    No worries! I think Canada's the best bet then. Cheers.
     

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