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Ben's new cinema room....

baldrick

Novice Member
benwillcox said:
Cheers Jon. I already have the soundbloc boards, I got 8x4 sheets that I ordered at the same time as some normal plasterboard that I had to get to redo the living room ceiling - you're right, it's mega heavy stuff, should be interesting getting it up there!

I will follow your advice about the fixings, thanks for that!

Cheers,
Ben.
Hire a 'sheet lifter' for the day: http://www.hss.com/g/69940/Panel_Lifting_Winch.html

Job's a goodun!
 

benwillcox

Member
Lawrenzini said:
looking good so far :thumbsup:
Thanks!

OK some progress this weekend.... First we drilled a hole through the wall to run the pipes and cables for the air-conditioning unit. Used an 80mm TCT core cutter on my SDS drill:




Had to buy some more insulation for the gameroom bit - there was already 100mm between each joist, but we added another 200mm to it:



Then we put some more boards up:



I seem to have made a miscalculation as we've used up all the soundbloc boards on just one layer :eek:
Better order some more then. Havn't yet boarded right up to the french doors, as they need to be replaced and they might need a lintel putting in yet. Also in the corner I need to extend the central heating drain cock to below the ceiling level.

Sorry these pics are all a bit dark, I've only got a single light bulb in there now until all the lights are wired in properly! The gameroom part is going to have 2 x 2.4m tracks and lights which means I don't have to cut holes in the ceiling (which will affect the soundproofing), but I can use some nice halogen spots that I can aim around the place. I ran each cable back to the equipment rack as a separate feed so that I can have each on a separate dimmer if I feel the need....

Also had a look on the audio-alloy website to get a rough idea of cost of the GreenGlue. Looks like it's going to be mega expensive so that's probably out. Does anyone know if there is any advantage to using anything else between the 2 layers of plasterboard i.e. normal silicon sealant etc, or is that a waste of time?
Cheers,
Ben
 

benwillcox

Member
Started putting some battens up so that I can mount one of the air-con units (coz I need to get the vaccum pump back to Global Cooling, I've only had it 4 months!)



Noggins still to go in yet of course....


I also need to get hold of a decent door to build into the dividing partition wall. Ideally I would have liked to get hold of a door and frame as a single unit just ready to slap in there but I can't seem to find anything suitable (that isn't £1000)...
Obviously want something as soundproof as possible, any ideas? Probably just get a solid-core firedoor and normal softwood frame unless there's anything better?

Ben.
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
If you make a door frame surround so that it can seal against the sides top and bottom (you will have a small step), then that will help. Use some sealing strip for the door to butt against, and don't have any door-lock holse for sound to leak through.

That's about the cheapest way i can think of doing it (as well as using a solid wood door as you've already suggested).

I have seen some doors and frames that look like shelving and so you don't know a door is there - like a secret entrance. I saw them over on avsforum in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7134277&&#post7134277

Gary
 

wandgrudd

Novice Member
benwillcox said:
I also need to get hold of a decent door to build into the dividing partition wall. Ideally I would have liked to get hold of a door and frame as a single unit just ready to slap in there but I can't seem to find anything suitable (that isn't £1000)...
Obviously want something as soundproof as possible, any ideas? Probably just get a solid-core firedoor and normal softwood frame unless there's anything better?

Ben.
You could use 2 fire doors one each side of the frame with an air gap in the middle should block out most noise.

For add noise protection you could get a Draught proofing kit for the doors to seal them agents the frame better.
 

benwillcox

Member
Gary Lightfoot said:
If you make a door frame surround so that it can seal against the sides top and bottom (you will have a small step), then that will help. Use some sealing strip for the door to butt against, and don't have any door-lock holse for sound to leak through.
Good thinking, I like it.

I have seen some doors and frames that look like shelving and so you don't know a door is there - like a secret entrance. I saw them over on avsforum in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7134277&&#post7134277
Woah, now you've done it - I'll be spending hours over at avsforum (again) drooling over all their massive cinema rooms!

Cheers,
Ben.
 

benwillcox

Member
wandgrudd said:
You could use 2 fire doors one each side of the frame with an air gap in the middle should block out most noise.

For add noise protection you could get a Draught proofing kit for the doors to seal them agents the frame better.
Yeah I had been considering 2 doors, trouble is it might be a bit of a clumbsy arrangement. I think I'll go with a normal firedoor, wide door stops, and draughtproofing all around. I also might actually thicken the door out by screwing a frame to it filled with insulation and a layer of plywood over it, if need be.


I finished fitting the first air-con unit today, was a bit traumatic but there you go!

Here it is:



Obviously in this weather it is running in heating mode, seems to do the honours!
This wall will be taped and jointed so I don't have to take the thing off again to put a skim coat on!

Ben
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
Are you going to be soundproofing that wall at all? If so, put some rockwool in there, and use two layers of plasterboard. Seal all edges with silicon or similar to try and stop any sound leaks through the wall. Ideally that partition should be around an inch away from the existing wall to help isolate the sound from travelling.

You'll still get bass going through, but that's always difficult to stop.

Gary
 

benwillcox

Member
Gary Lightfoot said:
Are you going to be soundproofing that wall at all? If so, put some rockwool in there, and use two layers of plasterboard. Seal all edges with silicon or similar to try and stop any sound leaks through the wall. Ideally that partition should be around an inch away from the existing wall to help isolate the sound from travelling.

You'll still get bass going through, but that's always difficult to stop.

Gary

I have put insulation behind that first sheet already, and will put some behind the rest, but it's an outside wall so I'm not too worried about sound transfer through it.

Ben.
 

inzaman

Moderator
benwillcox said:
I'll be spending hours over at avsforum (again) drooling over all their massive cinema rooms!
I know, if only we had the space they had.

benwillcox said:
but it's an outside wall so I'm not too worried about sound transfer through it.
I didnt put rockwool on my outside walls either, just on the party wall and the internal cellar wall. I have asked the neighbours if they can hear anything and they say not so it must be working well as i do like to have the hc on at a good volume. I mad my own door out of 9mm mdf and filled that with rockwoll as well so it too was soundproofed, or as good as.
Keep the pictures coming :)
 

benwillcox

Member
I'm definately planning on using double plasterboard, probably soundbloc on the internal dividing wall between the cinema and gameroom, and the wall filled with insulation.

Just got some more quotes for 18 sheets of 12.5mm soundbloc (or equivalent) from some local BMs, so that I can finish the ceiling. If anyone is interested, all prices plus VAT, per sheet:

Travis Perkins - £7.50
Jewson - £9.26
Builder Center - £7.50 (said they'd match TP's price)
Buildbase - £7.64

Soon adds up eh?!

Ben.
 

baldrick

Novice Member
It's a little late now, but for proper sound proofing you really need to isolate and for that you use resiliant bars which effectively mean the walls/ceiling are mounted on springs and absorb the sound waves.
 

mattym

Banned
resilient bars can be installed badly and not work efficiently though, which is a bummer
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
Yes - resiliant bars can do such a good job at times that they will remove all the bass from a room, and no amount of subs will give it back. Making the room with a known response such as a new wall with double plasterboard and then adding room treatments later is probably a better way to go, as you won't have to rip the walls down and remove the resiliant bar if they have a negative effect.

Gary
 

baldrick

Novice Member
Ideally you'd have a full acoustic design done in advance but this is maybe going a little OTT for a home cinema!?!? ;)
 

mattym

Banned
properly designed rooms will give you a better result, its amazing how many people spend £$$$ on gear but dont treat the room, waste of money getting good gear if it wounds bad cos of the room!
 

benwillcox

Member
mattym said:
properly designed rooms will give you a better result, its amazing how many people spend £$$$ on gear but dont treat the room, waste of money getting good gear if it wounds bad cos of the room!

Hey All,

Yeah I know there are better ways to get even more soundproofing, but you have to draw the line somewhere and plus I don't have an endless supply of cash :D

Mattym it would have been nice to get an accurate cost of the GreenGlue to see whether funds would allow, but I can't wait forever so I think tomorrow we will start putting up the second layer of plasterboard anyway..

Cheers,
Ben.
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
Make sure the second layer overlaps the 1st layers joins, - it will help prevent any leakage which may happen if the joins all line up.

Gary.
 

benwillcox

Member
Gary Lightfoot said:
Make sure the second layer overlaps the 1st layers joins, - it will help prevent any leakage which may happen if the joins all line up.
Thanks Gary, yes we're going to start at the opposite side of the room, so the joints will overlap both lenghways and widthways.
I'm now just going to make up some jointing compound and fill the small gaps between boards on the first layer. I guess I don't need to use scrim tape on this layer as any small cracks won't really matter ...?!

Ben.
 

inzaman

Moderator
mattym said:
properly designed rooms will give you a better result, its amazing how many people spend £$$$ on gear but dont treat the room, waste of money getting good gear if it wounds bad cos of the room!
Whilst that is probably a relatively fair comment, the cost of this must surely be exponentional. For me my room sounds great, as i am sure Bens will to him, which is the main issue.
Now i am sure i could have spent the same again on accoustic treatment, room isolation, springs here, absorbers there, all for probably a few % gain but i personally would not have appreciated it, but each to their own.

benwillcox said:
Soon adds up eh?!
Oh Yes :rolleyes:
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
benwillcox said:
I'm now just going to make up some jointing compound and fill the small gaps between boards on the first layer. I guess I don't need to use scrim tape on this layer as any small cracks won't really matter ...?!

Ben.
The better the seal the less chance of sound leakage, but it might be OK. I also used 'no more nails' between the two layers to give a stronger bond between them and make the two layers more like a single solid mass. B&Q do some cheap stuff that can come in boxes of 6 so that will help keep the cost down.

Gary
 

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