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Ben's new cinema room....

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by benwillcox, Jul 14, 2005.

  1. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    Started putting some battens up so that I can mount one of the air-con units (coz I need to get the vaccum pump back to Global Cooling, I've only had it 4 months!)

    [​IMG]

    Noggins still to go in yet of course....


    I also need to get hold of a decent door to build into the dividing partition wall. Ideally I would have liked to get hold of a door and frame as a single unit just ready to slap in there but I can't seem to find anything suitable (that isn't £1000)...
    Obviously want something as soundproof as possible, any ideas? Probably just get a solid-core firedoor and normal softwood frame unless there's anything better?

    Ben.
     
  2. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    If you make a door frame surround so that it can seal against the sides top and bottom (you will have a small step), then that will help. Use some sealing strip for the door to butt against, and don't have any door-lock holse for sound to leak through.

    That's about the cheapest way i can think of doing it (as well as using a solid wood door as you've already suggested).

    I have seen some doors and frames that look like shelving and so you don't know a door is there - like a secret entrance. I saw them over on avsforum in this thread:

    http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7134277&&#post7134277

    Gary
     
  3. wandgrudd

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    You could use 2 fire doors one each side of the frame with an air gap in the middle should block out most noise.

    For add noise protection you could get a Draught proofing kit for the doors to seal them agents the frame better.
     
  4. benwillcox

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    Good thinking, I like it.

    Woah, now you've done it - I'll be spending hours over at avsforum (again) drooling over all their massive cinema rooms!

    Cheers,
    Ben.
     
  5. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    Yeah I had been considering 2 doors, trouble is it might be a bit of a clumbsy arrangement. I think I'll go with a normal firedoor, wide door stops, and draughtproofing all around. I also might actually thicken the door out by screwing a frame to it filled with insulation and a layer of plywood over it, if need be.


    I finished fitting the first air-con unit today, was a bit traumatic but there you go!

    Here it is:

    [​IMG]

    Obviously in this weather it is running in heating mode, seems to do the honours!
    This wall will be taped and jointed so I don't have to take the thing off again to put a skim coat on!

    Ben
     
  6. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    Are you going to be soundproofing that wall at all? If so, put some rockwool in there, and use two layers of plasterboard. Seal all edges with silicon or similar to try and stop any sound leaks through the wall. Ideally that partition should be around an inch away from the existing wall to help isolate the sound from travelling.

    You'll still get bass going through, but that's always difficult to stop.

    Gary
     
  7. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    I have put insulation behind that first sheet already, and will put some behind the rest, but it's an outside wall so I'm not too worried about sound transfer through it.

    Ben.
     
  8. inzaman

    inzaman
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    I know, if only we had the space they had.

    I didnt put rockwool on my outside walls either, just on the party wall and the internal cellar wall. I have asked the neighbours if they can hear anything and they say not so it must be working well as i do like to have the hc on at a good volume. I mad my own door out of 9mm mdf and filled that with rockwoll as well so it too was soundproofed, or as good as.
    Keep the pictures coming :)
     
  9. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    I'm definately planning on using double plasterboard, probably soundbloc on the internal dividing wall between the cinema and gameroom, and the wall filled with insulation.

    Just got some more quotes for 18 sheets of 12.5mm soundbloc (or equivalent) from some local BMs, so that I can finish the ceiling. If anyone is interested, all prices plus VAT, per sheet:

    Travis Perkins - £7.50
    Jewson - £9.26
    Builder Center - £7.50 (said they'd match TP's price)
    Buildbase - £7.64

    Soon adds up eh?!

    Ben.
     
  10. baldrick

    baldrick
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    It's a little late now, but for proper sound proofing you really need to isolate and for that you use resiliant bars which effectively mean the walls/ceiling are mounted on springs and absorb the sound waves.
     
  11. mattym

    mattym
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    resilient bars can be installed badly and not work efficiently though, which is a bummer
     
  12. Peter Parker

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    Yes - resiliant bars can do such a good job at times that they will remove all the bass from a room, and no amount of subs will give it back. Making the room with a known response such as a new wall with double plasterboard and then adding room treatments later is probably a better way to go, as you won't have to rip the walls down and remove the resiliant bar if they have a negative effect.

    Gary
     
  13. baldrick

    baldrick
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    Ideally you'd have a full acoustic design done in advance but this is maybe going a little OTT for a home cinema!?!? ;)
     
  14. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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  15. mattym

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    properly designed rooms will give you a better result, its amazing how many people spend £$$$ on gear but dont treat the room, waste of money getting good gear if it wounds bad cos of the room!
     
  16. benwillcox

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    Hey All,

    Yeah I know there are better ways to get even more soundproofing, but you have to draw the line somewhere and plus I don't have an endless supply of cash :D

    Mattym it would have been nice to get an accurate cost of the GreenGlue to see whether funds would allow, but I can't wait forever so I think tomorrow we will start putting up the second layer of plasterboard anyway..

    Cheers,
    Ben.
     
  17. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    Make sure the second layer overlaps the 1st layers joins, - it will help prevent any leakage which may happen if the joins all line up.

    Gary.
     
  18. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    Thanks Gary, yes we're going to start at the opposite side of the room, so the joints will overlap both lenghways and widthways.
    I'm now just going to make up some jointing compound and fill the small gaps between boards on the first layer. I guess I don't need to use scrim tape on this layer as any small cracks won't really matter ...?!

    Ben.
     
  19. inzaman

    inzaman
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    Whilst that is probably a relatively fair comment, the cost of this must surely be exponentional. For me my room sounds great, as i am sure Bens will to him, which is the main issue.
    Now i am sure i could have spent the same again on accoustic treatment, room isolation, springs here, absorbers there, all for probably a few % gain but i personally would not have appreciated it, but each to their own.

    Oh Yes :rolleyes:
     
  20. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    The better the seal the less chance of sound leakage, but it might be OK. I also used 'no more nails' between the two layers to give a stronger bond between them and make the two layers more like a single solid mass. B&Q do some cheap stuff that can come in boxes of 6 so that will help keep the cost down.

    Gary
     
  21. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    OK, we've put up the second layer of Soundbloc on the cinema room part.
    I did a little test by playing some music in the bedroom above REALLY LOUD and listening in the cinema room. Hmm it would appear that the sound can be heard rather more than I'd hoped for :eek:
    Oh well, maybe another 2 layers of soundbloc ought to do it... Ha I think not, I'll have to live with it. Maybe GreenGlue or no nails would have made it better, but I'll never know....

    Anyway started building the dividing stud wall, first bit:
    [​IMG]

    Then one layer of soundbloc board:
    [​IMG]

    And from the rear it looks like this:
    [​IMG]

    Some insulation will go in the middle then another soundbloc board. If need be I'll leave a gap and build a second stud wall in front of it, to reduce sound leakage even more.
    This little cubby hole will have a bit of work surface or something across it, and will house the beer fridge, popcorn maker etc! Any other ideas are appreciated!
    Oh, realised that it will be dark there and I havn't run any cables for a light. I knew there would be something I forgot!!!
     
  22. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    You won't hear any real difference until the last piece is done - a one inch hole can let as much as 15dbs of sound through IIRC, so until all holes etc are sealed, you probably won't hear the majority of the benefit of your work.

    Gary.
     
  23. mattym

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    Ben im sorry mate i didnt see your post originally asking for costs, should have emailed or pmd me, i do try and read every post here but time simply doesnt allow it, again, sorry!

    Inzaman, acoustic treatment can be expensive, but some DIY treatments can be made up in a couple of hours and cost relatively little, so it is worth exploring the options(just dont tell my boss i said that!!)
     
  24. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    Thats reassuring Gary, thanks. I guess when the carpet and stuff is in it will help, as the sound just seems to reverberate and bounce around off the walls at the moment. Well, thats what I hope anyway!

    Ben
     
  25. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    Hey Matt, don't worry, the costs on the audio alloy site gave me a rough idea and unless you said oh yeah it's £1 a tube or something then I knew it was going to be a bit too expensive for me anyway!

    Cheers,
    Ben
     
  26. Peter Parker

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    Hard flat surfaces will reflect a lot of sound, you will get 'slap echo' and the like until some soft furnishings and carpet go in. If you fit carpet to the screen wall and to the lower half of the ramaining walls (below ear height), that will tame the reflections quite well. It would be better still to use propper corrective treatments though, and I think Matt has a software program that can do all the calculations for your room and tell you what products to fit and where.

    Gary
     
  27. benwillcox

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    I need to start thinking about my equipment rack. My initial vision was just to have an opening in the cupboard shown on my plans, with shelves inside, and a smoked glass door.

    But, I want to be able to actually get inside that cupboard for if I need to add any extra cabling etc (as cables can exit through the ceiling, though another cupboard upstairs and up into the loft, where my network gear and stuff is). Obviously this would be a rare ocurrance, and I don't want to make another opening in the cupboard to prevent sound leakage.

    I'm thinking about using some server rack rails to make the entire rack unit slide out of the wall complete with equipment, which would then allow me to climb inside the cupboard if/when necessary. This would also give me easy access to wiring at the back of the amps etc.
    I have got hold of 4 Dell server rack rails, look like 6U or thereabouts so pretty heavy duty.
    Anyone done anything like this before?
     
  28. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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  29. benwillcox

    benwillcox
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    Wow, now that's a rack!

    I think mine will be a little more modest, but that looks like the kind of idea, thanks for the link.

    Any idea where I can get some of the square-holed punched metal rails that normally go on the sides of 19" racks, so I can incorporate it into the frame of my cupboard? In fact I probably just need a bare 19" rack frame which would give me the correct width spacing too, but dunno the best or cheapest way to get one.?

    Ben.
     
  30. Peter Parker

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    I've no idea, sorry. I wonder what a google UK search might bring up though.

    If you've enough 'wiggle room', could you just put some casters under the rack you'll build and make sure it can run out of the cupboard OK without fowling on the carpet etc in the room. maybe build a runway for it so that it has a perfectly smooth surface to run out on.

    Gary
     

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