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behringer dsp setup help

Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
Hi guys I'm not really understanding the limiter settings and what not on the dsp, I'm wanting to set it so I cannot bottom my sub out, so also maybe a roll off after 20hz also? Can that be done with out actually lowering 20hz output ?
 

KelvinS1965

Distinguished Member
I was interested to hear this too for similar reasons. Playing with the iNuke software I can see that you could set a filter at 20Hz and for example a Butterworth filter at 48db/octave would mean that by 10Hz your sub output would be 48dB down which should be enough to protect the driver.

Another option is to use the dynamic EQ:

Using a BP (bandpass filter) set the frequency to 20Hz maybe set the threshold to -10 or -5 depending on how safe you want to be (the larger number being safer). Then set the gain control negative perhaps to -10db. Try this and the graphs will explain far better than words. However the idea is that once the signal goes above the threshold then the gain is reduced below the frequency you set which should help prevent your driver being overdriven at the low end. The peak limiter will clamp the output for all frequencies so could be used in parallel with the above.

Of course if you go too extreme or roll off too high up then you may lose the very frequencies you want to produce, so may need some experimentation. Having played with Win ISD it seems that you can work out how many watts it will take to hit the end stops and then set accordingly, but I defer to the experts on this one.
 

jason shep

Well-known Member
Good thread,I have just bought an nu6000 dsp & I too intend to set a highpass filter at 20hz,it will be good to learn from existing users experience :thumbsup:
 

hoppaz

Well-known Member
Hope he sees this thread, was hoping gecko Dan might help too, does anyone know how to explain the limiter settings?

The email is

CARE (space) @music-group.com

I have put a (space) in just to stop crawlers picking up the exact address. Capitals and all mind.

Paul
 

d3nver

Banned
I use the following settings to help cut or roll off 10hz as proven via bass test's and buttkickers.

All depends on your volume though, i have mine set at a high volume so lesser volues will need less agressive rolling off/cutting.
 

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Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
I use the following settings to help cut or roll off 10hz as proven via bass test's and buttkickers.

All depends on your volume though, i have mine set at a high volume so lesser volues will need less agressive rolling off/cutting.

Doesn't that start rolling off from much higher though looking at graph?
 

d3nver

Banned
Doesn't that start rolling off from much higher though looking at graph?

It would seem so but using multiple base test from youtube that cover 0-200hz shows the amp can cut/roll of sub 10hz only and still keep ie 10/20hz.
Now i did say i play with a very high volume and lower volumes can have less aggressive roll offs/cuts.

But i use buttkickers and not a subwoofer, i still have working 10hz and above as proven by Simcommander ( pc tactile for racing api, can set custom hz to different effects ) as if i set lets say 12hz i feel it but 8 hz is'nt there or if it is it's rolled off good enough for no bottoming out below 10hz but keepng virtually all hz above 10hz :).

May be different for subs, i do'nt know, i just say what i see.
 
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Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
Thanks for the info, I think its slightly different for subs as generaly the subs output is rolling off on its own and normaly needs boosting on the dsp at 20ish but for protection wanted a swift roll off lower than that, think I may have figured out a way will test when Mrs out
 

KelvinS1965

Distinguished Member
James: Did you look into the dynamic EQ option at all? This could allow you to run full output down to whatever frequency you are happy with at lower levels, then reduce the gain as the levels approach reference. Something like the image below might give a bit of protection for the driver without totally removing the lower end (it would just be reduced/compressed but at least the driver should be safe with the right settings).

This example shows that the threshold is set to -20dB, so once the signal goes above this point the output below 20Hz gets reduced by a maximum of 15dB (@10Hz). You could set the threshold lower to bring the effect in sooner for added protection (but it's still only a maximum of 15dB attentuation).

You can also use the filters to roll off below 20Hz either 6/12/24/48dB per octave so that by 10Hz (ie one octave below 20Hz) you will be that number of dBs down to help protect the driver.

However, it would be more scientific to use the charts in Win ISD to work out what wattage at which frequency will cause your driver to get to Xmax. Then you could just ensure that the amp won't output beyond this by setting the overall limiter.
 

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Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
Thanks Kelvin yes I have looked at those and I think I can make it work, just finding the time between work and when the Mrs out to test it. On the dsp program its a shame that there isn't a graph to show how all settings interact I.e if I set a 48db filter at 20hz and then abit of a boost +3 db at say 22hz would that keep it flatter to 20 and then roll off after 20 and not gradually before it like it would without + eqing
 

mattkhan

Distinguished Member
Thanks Kelvin yes I have looked at those and I think I can make it work, just finding the time between work and when the Mrs out to test it. On the dsp program its a shame that there isn't a graph to show how all settings interact I.e if I set a 48db filter at 20hz and then abit of a boost +3 db at say 22hz would that keep it flatter to 20 and then roll off after 20 and not gradually before it like it would without + eqing
you can use roomeqwizard for the PEQ part of this at least; open the EQ window, set the device to DCX2496 and then dial in some filters.
 

Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
Matt, what's roomeqwizard? Is it part of the behringer software?
 

Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
Thanks guys, so would I need a Mic to connect to pc to use it properly? Or am I better off using MCACC on the pioneer and just using rew/behringer dsp to protect low end?
 

mojogoes

Remembered (1961-2016)
Thanks guys, so would I need a Mic to connect to pc to use it properly? Or am I better off using MCACC on the pioneer and just using rew/behringer dsp to protect low end?

I believe so ..........i must admit i had the whole setup at one stage mic / mic pre amp and it drove me to destruction setting it all up and tring to get some form of readings etc.......i may just buy a standard nu3000 plus anti-mode.:suicide:
 

Jameskatie

Distinguished Member
I think I need a test tone cd, a pen, paper and my ears
 

KelvinS1965

Distinguished Member
The problem with an Antimode is that it can't boost. It will cut the peaks as it sees fit (and it does tighten up the sound of my Monolith) but it can't be set to EQ the low end of a sealed sub which typically needs boosting to get a flat response (apart from engaging the 20/30Hz boost perhaps).

I think that if you just had a standard amp you might find that the response tails off (though obviously it does depend on the placement and the room). Without some form of measurement it's hard to know what's going on.
 

mojogoes

Remembered (1961-2016)
I think I need a test tone cd, a pen, paper and my ears


As good as that maybe its never going to be dialed in to its full potential and then become a waist having it...........if you've got one of the better amps with xt32 like the onkyo 818 comes to mind your good to go unfortunately ive got a cheapo av amp:(
 

mojogoes

Remembered (1961-2016)
The problem with an Antimode is that it can't boost. It will cut the peaks as it sees fit (and it does tighten up the sound of my Monolith) but it can't be set to EQ the low end of a sealed sub which typically needs boosting to get a flat response (apart from engaging the 20/30Hz boost perhaps).

I think that if you just had a standard amp you might find that the response tails off (though obviously it does depend on the placement and the room). Without some form of measurement it's hard to know what's going on.


Very true
 

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