Hi, I thank Roland for all nice posts on Barco posts, they've kept me reading for too many nights now. But I'm a newbie and still nervous. I don't know if I have understood it all is all, so.... I have a BarcoData 701s with less then thousand hours on it, and I'm looking for the most appropriate way to setup the 701s from scratch. I'd really appreciate it if you wise ones have any comments to this setup procedure: the order it is listed in, or just how wrong the sections may be. 1. Clean start No source connected? Delete all memory blocks? Set up new memory block using an internal test pattern, like iPAL? 2. Mechanical setup (with the internal Pattern iPAL) mech. focus electronic focus aiming the tubes raster size/centering? (How do Igrt thr raster to light up, I had [email protected] and [email protected], but i still cannt comprehend waht's what, and what to look for?) 3. Geometry? (Should I look at the tube face or the screen while doing geometry settup?) Do I always start with "phase"?, and then? (Or is the guided procedure good enough?) I mean are there a diffirece, if their are wich on is preffereble to get best PQ. 4. Convergence? Is between 30-70 out of 100, considered acceptable? If I need to go less/more than between 30-70, how do I know if there is something that can be re-done to get it better during Mechanical settup, I mean is there a specific relation between the two? Is the guided convergence the best to use? If not then what would be a better procedure to use? 5. Contrast/Brightness I've read alot on this, some like it C<50 and B>50, others like it the other way around. But what is the most common settings on these, 50/50 or? I just need some good numbers to start with? 5. G2 (The final boubble to make me awestricken) Does it matter where the current settings for Contrast and Brightness are set? (maybe these should be set to midpoint, 50/50, to?) In the manual, it says I'm supposed to look on the screen while changing the G2 for the specific tube, and watch as the phosphor lights up behind the "Text", with the ABL ON, then turn ABL OFF and do the whole thing all over again. But I fail to understand when my G2 is perfect or at least close to perfect. Appriciate help on a better explanation on this, especially with the risk of toasting my tubes. I mean I don't even understand which way one starts to turn the screws, is it clockwise, or counterclockwise? I know from the quote: "Plastic screwdriver", by Roland, that I need to take extreme care here. 6. Inputing external source. The first time I input a new source signal, what should I need to redo and not need to redo in the Mech/install/geometry/convergence department? What would be the highest real world resolution to get out of my sub 1000 hours tubes. I currently use a yamakawa dx365, which spits out PALp via analog RGBHV over the DVI interface, and is connected with RGB+C sync using a Tee connector for V/H. This gives me lots of video noise and all sorts of motion artifacts and what not, even when using custom resolutions and timings. Is component out so much worse then RGBHV that I shouldn't use it (in relative terms to the 701s of course)? Also if anyone know how good, or not, the LIDO is compared to someof the newef budget progressive scan dvd players, I'm all ears? cheers and thanks Hi, Im F and I'm a Dyslectic.