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Barco data 801s owners

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by pegFACE, Nov 8, 2001.

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  1. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    Heyas chaps

    got my first CRT recently for a song, 3 clean tubes with a thousand hours on them, chuffed was I, alas, all was not smooth

    Basically, i was tightning the convergence tabs, and then i saw a spark in the projector, instantly, i paniced and turned her off

    upon turning her back on, I note that once the signal has been fed (from RGBVH BNC) the green LED on the board behind the red tube (the one with G2 next to it) goes off after about 5 seconds or so, and stays off. Occasionally the projector arc's... anyway

    after an hour or so i looked at the screen, and thought the red was a little strong, so i turned it down via the knob by the diagnosis LED's, and now, the LED stays on.

    Alas, i'm desperate for a diagnosis so i can fix it, and have my peice of mind back :)

    Any help would be great

    thanks

    Michael
     
  2. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    I don't know what you means by these convergence tabs.
    Are you talking about the electronic convergenve alignment via the hand control?.

    You don't say say how long after the projector was installed that this happend. It is very comon for a projector flash or arc over after they have been installed due to the physical moving around.

    The control you fiddled with is the G2. This should be only set in the Service meue under G" adjustment. In this menu you need to adjust the lower (table mount) of the two rows of controls untill the LED just goes off. You have to turn them really slowly. It is not unusual for a flash over to disturb these settings.

    Occasionally you will get a projector where the LED just will not go off. My advice would be to put up a grey scale from video essentials/ Avia (Starwars has a test grey in the THX options box)

    If you can't get your hands on one of theose . Set the Colour satuaration to 0 so you have a B&W picture and turn the G" that you adjusted untill you get a neutral grey.
     
  3. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    I don't know what you means by these convergence tabs.
    Are you talking about the electronic convergenve alignment via the hand control?.

    no, i mean the screws which allow you to twist the lens and converge

    You don't say say how long after the projector was installed that this happend. It is very comon for a projector flash or arc over after they have been installed due to the physical moving around.

    this happened during the time i was tightning up the lens, and it did it again a few times after, it has been stationary since i tightned the tabs up, so about a week or so, it really freaks me out

    The control you fiddled with is the G2. This should be only set in the Service meue under G" adjustment. In this menu you need to adjust the lower (table mount) of the two rows of controls untill the LED just goes off. You have to turn them really slowly. It is not unusual for a flash over to disturb these settings.

    okay

    A friend suggests that I need a new HV splitter

    is this true?

    thanks

    Michael
     
  4. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    hmmm

    The control you fiddled with is the G2. This should be only set in the Service meue under G" adjustment. In this menu you need to adjust the lower (table mount) of the two rows of controls untill the LED just goes off. You have to turn them really slowly. It is not unusual for a flash over to disturb these settings.

    Well, I put it into the g2 mode via the menu, and began turning the lower set of the two knobs to get them at a point where they'd switch off. I was only able to get the LED behind the red tube to go off , the others stayed on no matter what position the dial was at...

    Another thing, i never used to go into the G2 software mode to adjust the knobs, i just did it during movie, have I damaged my Barco in doing this? :eek:

    I have a million and one questions for you roland!, is there a contact telephone number I can get you at, for 10mins of your time, would help me a VERY great deal

    kind regards

    Michael
     
  5. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    Fear not its not broken.
    The LEDS as the tubes get older do sometimes refuse to go out.

    I'm fairly certain that the flash overs are due to the recent movement of the projector. So long as they are happenng further apart then the projector will settle down. And you won't need the bit your friend recomends (however they do go)

    What it happening is a tiny particle of dust is making the electon beam short circuit rather than go down to the phospher surface and make it glow. Each time the PJ flashes over it should vaporise the particle.

    The image will either blank and recover or shut the EHT down to protect its self. Somtimes the curcits are not quick enough and high voltages take out other components. this is what I suspect happened to THX1138.

    I've sent my number
     
  6. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    Further to out phone discussion, i was about to remove the cables at the top of the HV splitter for change around, (blue red) but i cant work out which ones which!!!!

    regards

    mike
     
  7. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    Just follow the leads.

    for others I have suggested that it may be the splitter that is causing the red tube to keep going on and off. so to switch the EHT leads. Only do it when it's off (47.5K volts)
     
  8. pegFACE

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    yeah, sorted mate, switched 'em over, and currently running now.....

    timer is two hours without an arc...

    hmmmm
     
  9. pegFACE

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    Update

    I changed the leads over, and it ran for about four hours solid, before it arc'd, and when it did it happened three times within half an hour, and then it didnt do it again for another hour, then I switched it off, it was, after all, 5am :)

    Anyhow, when it did arc, i wasnt to sure which tube was flashing, due to the film i was watching (mad max) but i'm 70% sure it was the red one...

    Suggestions?
     
  10. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    OK I'm not convinced this is a splitter yet but you never can tell.
    I suspect it will be the tube.

    Go into the servce menu and select "CRT run in cycle".

    This will produce a full on / full off screen every 20 or so seconds. *

    You need to run it for about 24 hours solid just flashing away to its self. If it really gets anoying you could cover the lenses.

    What this will do is to zap any loose bits that may be in the tube.

    I would full expect it to arc at some point.

    *If the projector says you need an internal pattern. Do the following.

    1 go into random access internal pattern
    2 select 15khz
    3 dont waorry about the shape just make sure when you look down the lenses thet the grid does not quite touch the tube edges. you adjust this with H and V size.
     
  11. pegFACE

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    okay, i'm on it Roland...

    Think i'll need a new tube?

    funny thing is, i've lost no picture quality and i'm SURE that the arc i saw was in the central area of the projector (i saw a flash)
     
  12. pegFACE

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    Alas, the flashing begins,

    its arc'd twiced already, and i've been flashing :blush: for over an hour
     
  13. pegFACE

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    right

    it arc'd 5 times over the two hours, then it went quiet for about an hour and then it arc'd twice over 30mins, which brings us to the now
     
  14. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    If it has done it's 24hrs and still flashing.

    Pull the Red Tube EHT lead (1/4 push down turn) tuck it well out of the way. and start all over again with just the blue and green.

    If you get no flashig your RED tube is dieing.
     
  15. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    Good idea

    flashing in progress, redtube disconnected
     
  16. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    YES

    THE B*TCH cracked, redtube is disconnected

    and the spark came from over near the focus block/back of blue tube/the blue tubes pcb with G2 light on it

    suggestions?
     
  17. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    Erm, the focus block (the bit with two rows of three knobs is making a medium pitched squeaking sound...

    maybe its the faulty bit?
     
  18. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    Okay

    Here is a full update with a pretty much fully accurate description of faults

    Symtoms

    Flashing, image disapearing for a milisecond and then reappearing, at the same time a crack can be heard and a spark can be seen around the back of the blue tube near the block with the G2 adjustment dials.

    Originally assumed it to be the HV splitter, I removed the red HV lead and swapped it with the blue one, yet the sparks kept on coming, and the red image kept going down.

    I then left the red HV lead totally unplugged and it still cracked, and i again saw the spark from the same area around the back of the blue tube/focus block. Also when running the CRT run in cycle, the focus block would emit a mid ranged hum for around 5 seconds, then dissapear

    All the arcing occured at some point throughout the movie, somtimes it was four hours before it would arc, other times it was 30 mins. once it had arc'd the image would return to playback.

    Apart from the symptoms above, the projector is works 100%, image is great.

    Just for clarifacation the arc/spark was just a high pitched crack sound like when you break a ruler, and the spark a bright little, well, spark.

    This is really the most accurate discription of symtoms i can give...

    Thanks

    Michael
     
  19. Phil Hinton

    Phil Hinton
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    Peg,

    This does sound very much like the problem i am currently having with my 800. Although i dont see any spark, there is a clicking sound and the tubes shut down.

    I have found that by removing the convergence board it stopped the problem, although this may not be what you are experienceing but might be worth a try?
     
  20. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    hi THX

    is your click a crack or a click

    and i think the convergence board is under the tubes, but my spark came from near the focus block/G2

    hmmm

    its really depessing want my baby fixed!
     
  21. Phil Hinton

    Phil Hinton
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    It's a click not a crack.

    I am sure we will both get to the bottom of our problems and have our babies running again. But we would definately be stumped without Roland being around, he's earned his commision so far, run out of how many pints i owe him for his help. The man is a god!
     
  22. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    lol i'm not allowed to by him a pint (too young :D) but he can have a glass of water on me, we, maybe an orange juice! :)

    nah, roland is invaluable, i await this mornings chapter with anticipation
     
  23. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    I recon . Red tube shutting off is a red herring (pun intended). It's usually but COLOR=red]Not[/COLOR] always the same one that's flashing

    I recon it is a bit sensitive (new man stuff, girls are impressed by this).
    It may be the Blue tube or the focus block that is flashing (arcing) and the Red tube just decides It's going off for a bit.

    Try a day now with the Blue EHT disconnected.
     
  24. RichardA

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    An idea for the flash - I seem to remember from one of my previous lives fishing in the guts of Electrohome and Sony CRT's (a loooonnnng time ago!) that there is usually a 'spark-gap' on the HT that is supposed to flash over before there is a catastrophic problem elsewhere.

    It could be a HT PSU problem (too high a voltage?) or the spark gap failing.

    It's only a guess as I've never tried to fix a Barco - and it could still be a result of the 'problem' rather than the cause - but may be worth a look.
     
  25. pegFACE

    pegFACE
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    Ahoy

    Right, just got of the blower to Curt Palme, (he's lucky roland, the call was too expencive for it to last more than 10mins, you should move to canada, then when i call you i wont make it last for more than 10mins :D )

    Anyway, he said disconnect the blue tube too, so i'll do so, but the focus block being out is a large possibility, so at the moment i'm going to go on that...

    alas, i'll d/c the blue one to rule it out, and if it still keeps on arcin', i'll have to look at getting the focus block sorted out :(

    I hope it aint expencive :eek:
     
  26. Roland @ B4

    Roland @ B4
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    I'm humbled if Curt has given advice take it.
    He has probably forgotten more than I will ever know about projectors.

    The fact we had the same idea should convince you that you are on the same track.
    Focus block is a sealed unit and not repairable so either you go used route or a new one.

    Tube would be worse though.
     
  27. pegFACE

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    okay

    Can you get me a quote for one please Roland

    thanks

    the part number is 762482 I think (the numbers on a little sticky inbetween the two rows of adjustors
     
  28. Old Projector

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    Hi pegFACE
    Email Me if Roland can't assist. I have G2 diagnostic modules number 762482, one I tested in my own 801S Data.
    Henry
     
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