Auto power on problem with Paradigm PS1000

Scuzz

Novice Member
Hello good people
So my dad has this paradigm ps 1000 sub in his lockup for ages and gave it to me a while ago and it has the same problem as most of you
Am I right in saying it just needs new resistors and fuse

ps: I know this is a old page just looking for help
I’ve got the same problem and am looking for the proper resistors. It seems that they may be 2k 3watt but then some people say that it’s better to for a higher wattage. Can anyone confirm what the best resistor would be?
 

videoed99

Novice Member
I see people are still having issues with this sub. I was given a dead one and spent time looking for the answers as well. I found the hand drawn picture of the power input cct, but still went further as there are two models of this unit, one for 120volt and one for 220 volt operation... I found the schematic for it. I will include a link to it as well as a cropped image of the power cct. Have not been able to fix it yet because of this Covid-19 stuff. cannot get the parts because suppliers are running very restricted hours.
Link to site if you want the full schematic.
 

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Scuzz

Novice Member
Hello all,
i followed the advice of a few people on this forum and replaced the resistors and the fuse. It worked! Just join the two resistors at the bottom instead of relying on the circuit board. That’s where there’s carbon tracing and damage from excessive heat. I left the wire a little longer at the bottom on both resistors and soldered them together. Also, I went from 2k 3w to 2k 5w because that’s all I could get my hands on. The resistors were larger but still fit. The fuse didn’t need replacing but I did it anyway with the same value and type. All good now. An easy fix. Thanks everyone for their advice.
 

Myden82

Novice Member
Hi there. My ps1000 v.3 smoke r84 and r85. Also 2 smaller resistor at the edge of the pcb where the power connectors goes too are blown. Can someone give me the color code or picture of it. Thanks. Also few more near the other rectifier. Anyone know where i can order a new board.
 

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Udude37

Novice Member
Ok I’m irritated now
It was working after a fuse but now it has internal arcing
(Crackling power supply)
Who’s smart and knows how I can cut the board off and wire the resistors in parallel or series
 

Udude37

Novice Member
Ok um
I fixed it and I may have fixed other ppls problems
So um
Like I said the transformer/ power supply was getting overloaded this is caused by the circuit board getting burned and the burned blackish parts become conducive and carry the wall voltage straight to the thing
U can see it better if u shine a light under it the burned bits look like really dodgy brown tracers
Anyway explaining out the way
I used a Stanley blade and a pair of tweezers to pick away at the burned bit until I nearly got through the board
Turned it back on and it works perfectly
One thing tho
DO NOT OPEN THE BOTTOM OF THE SUB
I did and the subs performance has dropped a bit so yea
Before giving up try some things
 

Myden82

Novice Member
Nice. Congrats. Ill try this. I also found some more burn small resistors other than the 2 big one near the fuse. Cant seem to find board infomation anywhere.
 

william13

Member
I see people are still having issues with this sub. I was given a dead one and spent time looking for the answers as well. I found the hand drawn picture of the power input cct, but still went further as there are two models of this unit, one for 120volt and one for 220 volt operation... I found the schematic for it. I will include a link to it as well as a cropped image of the power cct. Have not been able to fix it yet because of this Covid-19 stuff. cannot get the parts because suppliers are running very restricted hours.
Link to site if you want the full schematic.
Dear Videod99: I have searched high and low for schematic. Could I please have a copy?
 

william13

Member
The issue I am having is like others but maybe different. One day I turned it on and it blew a fuse. I replaced the fuse and it blew again. I replaced with a third fuse but this time fired her up with a Load Lamp figuring there was a short but there was not. The I put auto-on into "off position" and there was no problem.
I see no burnt fuses. I understand there are other issues just as leaky big capacitor etc. Any one else have this issue?
 

Scuzz

Novice Member
The issue I am having is like others but maybe different. One day I turned it on and it blew a fuse. I replaced the fuse and it blew again. I replaced with a third fuse but this time fired her up with a Load Lamp figuring there was a short but there was not. The I put auto-on into "off position" and there was no problem.
I see no burnt fuses. I understand there are other issues just as leaky big capacitor etc. Any one else have this issue?
Have you checked the two resistor near the fuse? If you put a flashlight behind them, you may notice carbon tracing. They are easily replaced. Check my (and other) advice on a previous post in this thread.
 

william13

Member
Ok, I will take it apart again this weekend. I will get back in few days. Interesting I do not see the amplifier circuit on the schematic v3. Is there more schematics out there?
 

Yannick99

Member
On my side the 2x 2k 3w was blown with the fuse that's all. Another problem i had is the driver itself. Coil and cone broken. I replace it by a old kappa perfect 10.1 i had. It's a woofer for small enclosure. I think it's a good match. Good bass.
 

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Yannick99

Member
Ok, I will take it apart again this weekend. I will get back in few days. Interesting I do not see the amplifier circuit on the schematic v3. Is there more schematics out there?

schematic:
 

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william13

Member
Here are some of my pictures I took before I knew what to look for. Does this help me with what version I have?
 

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Vader540is

Novice Member
Hi everyone, looks like I joined the club to. I have a PS1200a ( 110v)

After while my sub started making a flapping noise along with cracking noise. I took the bottom cover off and the surround was beginning to fail. I checked the resistance and it is 3-4 ohms. So I assume the voice coil is okay. I used a known good subwoofer driver and the crackling distortion noise was still there. I used the original paradigm driver ( with the failing surround) on another subwoofer Amp and it sounded fine, which leads me to believe the problem is with the plate amplifier.

So I took off the Amp and those two resistors that everyone is having issues with are fine ( R90 & R91) but i can tell where they are soldered...the board is starting to blacken.

I emailed Paradigm and this is what they said.
"R90 & R91 are 10R and 50R (Ohms) rated 1/4W"

I found these




Can anyone recommend something else better? Or are the two that I linked are ok? (I'm in USA)

I'm also going to replace to two large capacitors cuz why not. I couldn't see the values very well... I made out 5600uf 50V then there was a 85 with a small r
I will also replace the glass fuse.
I will also replace the foam surround, Any kits to recommend?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Yannick99

Member
I emailed Paradigm and this is what they said.
"R90 & R91 are 10R and 50R (Ohms) rated 1/4W"

180 ohm as per him.

2k- 3watt here (same as ps-1000)

Doesn't look like 1/4w to me. probably 2 watt. look the same size of ps-1000 resistor. That's said i do not have ps-1200 schematic. Also it's maybe not a problem on ps-1200 and maybe not the same purpose. r90-91 on ps1000 is for standby supply. Deosn't change sound at all when sub is powered on.

Do you have tested those resistors (hard to do if you dont know value for sure). But they are maybe good. If they are good, keep it. You can test the capacitors too. Mine was fine. If the fuse is not blown, keep it. your problem is probably somewhere else.
 
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Vader540is

Novice Member
180 ohm as per him.

2k- 3watt here (same as ps-1000)

Doesn't look like 1/4w to me. probably 2 watt. look the same size of ps-1000 resistor. That's said i do not have ps-1200 schematic. Also it's maybe not a problem on ps-1200 and maybe not the same purpose. r90-91 on ps1000 is for standby supply. Deosn't change sound at all when sub is powered on.

Do you have tested those resistors (hard to do if you dont know value for sure). But they are maybe good. If they are good, keep it. You can test the capacitors too. Mine was fine. If the fuse is not blown, keep it. your problem is probably somewhere else.
Ok ill look elsewhere. i did notice the capacitors ( not leaking) but they had a slight bulge on top.
 

william13

Member
Getting back on weekend as promised. Embarrassed to say. Turns out I do not have a PS1000 as I thought. I have a Paradigm Servo 15a. Not much written about it. Resistors appear intact. No trace burns. Popped out the Filter capacitors 15,000 50 v. They seem fine in terms of being able to rev up its resistance. (exceeded ability of my Fluke 177 that can only test up to 10,000 uf). Any way I should bud out of this forum but any last minute directions would be really appreciated. Major issue....blows out fuses.
 

Yannick99

Member
Major issue....blows out fuses.

Servo 15a, looks like a beast :)

R90 and R91 are R184 R185 in servo 15. Should be 3k 2 watts. Those resistor are same purpose as ps-1000. So check this.
 

william13

Member
Thanks Yannick99: I found the equivalent resistors but mine test fine at 2.9K and all the traces are intact. I seem to have a new problem and its vexing!
 

Yannick99

Member
Thanks Yannick99: I found the equivalent resistors but mine test fine at 2.9K and all the traces are intact. I seem to have a new problem and its vexing!

This can help you
 

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william13

Member
I appreciate:
so far I tested:
1. Large filter caps by shorting and reviving up to infinity
2. bridge rectifier
3. output transistors (in circuit) best I could
4. the larger resistors
5. did not test transforme6.r because the fuses take a few seconds to blow and I am not sure this is consistent with transformer short
6.tested the varistor

Out of ideas
 

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