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Argh! I popped my sub!

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by SBanga, Jun 9, 2005.

  1. SBanga

    SBanga
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    Just when I thought I could partly fund my Monolith purchase (it still might be something else!) with the sale of my Paradigm PS1000, it started making a rattling noise the other day. With it being out of warranty, I thought I might as well check it out myself. I opened it up to find the woofer ripped along its suspension. How and when this happened I don't know; it was most probably a gradual thing. Now, I emailed Paradigm about a replacement driver to see if I could save the sub, but they quoted me a price of about £120 including delivery to the UK..... exactly what my friend was willing to pay for my pristine example :suicide: It seems a shame to just throw the thing away so my question for you well informed folk is, is there anything I can do to salvage the sub? Is there any speaker which could fit the spec of the PS1000, but not so expensive (I know its basically impossible). Or is there anyone who I could contact to get the part cheaper? Its annoying as I am going to have to save for a bit longer for my next sub (man I hate being a student!)..... with no sub until then!! I guess I'm prepared for you guys to tell me to throw it away :(
     
  2. Reiner

    Reiner
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    Try some electronic shops to find a new (and cheaper) driver. If the diameter is not too odd you might find one that fits right in, though of course the performance (sound) might be somewhat different. Worth a try though, IMHO.
     
  3. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    As Reiner said, find a different driver from somewhere (BK and Wilmslow Audio would be a good place to start) and try putting that in. As it's a ready-made cabinet with amp panel you may have some luck selling it to a budding DIYer as well. :)
     
  4. Mylo

    Mylo
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    Agree with the above :)
    www.cpc.co.uk may be a source.
    It will also depend on how the sub is mounted in the cabinet, if it's like my old PDR8 then it's more difficult as the cloth grill is glued onto the cabinet to form part of the baffle.
    As John says though, you would have no problem selling the panel and cabinet to one of the DIY'ers. I've recycled a sub before and they make great projects.
     
  5. FeisalK

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    same thing happened to my 4yr-old PS1000 while watching SW EpisodeII (first scene). Fortunately we have a local service centre that replaced the driver for about £55. Maybe you could mail the UK distributors for support.

    Another guy said he replaced the driver with a generic aftermarket driver costing about half the price with no ill effects

    good luck!
     
  6. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    Can you give us any dimensions/ specs for the driver, then us DIY guys may be able to suggest replacements.

    Dave
     
  7. SBanga

    SBanga
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    Feisal K, £55 sounds a bargain. Do you have any contact details for that service centre or any details of the other driver?
    Regmarch, the driver is a 10" polypropylene design in a bandpass enclosure (Paradigm describes it as a dual-cavity cabinet). The measurements for the enclosure externally are 17" x 17" x 19". Unfortunately, I don't know the internal volume. There are three 3-inch vents on the rear panel but I don't know what they are tuned to. The amplifier is rated at 130w RMS. I know this is very vague but I lost the manual :suicide: Any thoughts?
    BTW, this is the new version which is the exact same design but improved in some areas...... http://www.paradigm.com/Website/SiteParadigmProduct/ParadigmModels/SubWoofers/PS_Series.html
     
  8. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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  9. FeisalK

    FeisalK
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    sorry I didn't mention I am in Singapore - it was the Paradigm distributor service centre tho
     
  10. SBanga

    SBanga
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    Dave, wouldn't the lower wattage output of the speaker result in a quieter sound or wouldn't it be noticeable? How close a match is it? Also, would spending a little more get better success? Cheers! :thumbsup:
     
  11. Nimby

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    The "Wattage" of a speaker is a measure of its ability to handle electrical power from an amplifier. Not how much power it puts out acoustically. The latter would be measured in dBs per Watt at a fixed distance. (usually one metre with speakers) e.g., 90db/watt @ 1 metre. This is referred to as its "sensitivity". Sensitivity is important if you have low amplifier power output but want high sound levels. For example with a weakling of a triode valve amplifier.
    Speaker sensitivity tends to rise with size. A tiny IB bookshelf speaker is usually very insensitive to electrical input. i.e., Low sensitivity. While a very large reflex cabinet or (even better) a horn loaded loudspeaker has high sensitivity. There are other factors involved of course. There always is. But crossover design, enclosure volume and type of speaker loading are the biggest contributors to sensitivity.

    Nimby
     
  12. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    I suggested that driver as a cheap solution to the problem, to get a working sub. Only by trying it could you really tell whether it was a suitable replacement. Certainly spending more may get better results, but spend much more and you way as well swallow your pride and get the right paradigm driver, which was designed for that box (or visa versa).


    HTH

    Dave
     
  13. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    I suspect that the £20 BK driver is a better unit than originally came with the sub. :)
     
  14. SBanga

    SBanga
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    But not necessarily a better match John? I think I'll just shove that BK driver in and see if my friend realises the difference! :smashin:
     
  15. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    Possibly not a better match but the improvements may outweigh the different speaker/cabinet parameters. Give BK, Wilmslow Audio and Paradigm a ring/email and see what they say. :)
     
  16. Steve.EX

    Steve.EX
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    Sunil Bunga

    Stuffing another driver into a cabinet may end with wildly differing performance. It is not nearly so simple as that. There are many relationship factors between driver and cabinet, in many or most serious designs the cabinet being designed around the electrical and mechanical parameters of the driver.
    I personally would not spend too much money on a generic driver in a "suck-it-and-see" situation then nothing too much lost if it doesn't work out.

    I am sure i would attempt to contact Paradigm for details or sources for an equivalent driver, if no help avails itself in that direction ask if there are Thiel Parameter details for that driver, this will give you a pretty good template with what to replace it with.

    Just MHO of course.

    Steven
     
  17. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    Couldn't agree more Steve, that's why I recommended he put a cheap (but good) driver in to see if he could rescue it. Certainly not worth paying big bucks on a potentially incompatible driver, if he's only at best going to sell it for £120.

    Dave
     
  18. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    But you could put it on eBay as a modified, updated and improved PS1000 and easily make £160 with it. :laugh:
     
  19. Nimby

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    I'm afraid I have to agree with the comments about not using another driver in a bandpass design. Having built bandpass subs myself I can confirm that every driver needs a different enclosure. The internal cavities and porting have to be remarkably precise for a bandpass to function porperly.

    Personally I'd just flog off the amp (and sub box?) for what you can get. Then move on to any well recommended sub.

    Nimby
     

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