Arendal Sound Subwoofers - Owners & Discussion

I'm using my ears to discern delay that I cannot find at all.
May I ask
Which devices are you using to get those delay numbers ?

With subs and those low freq in the room
we are dealing with decay time in the range of 300ms to 500msec
so a little delay if any
cannot harm at all I believe
 
I'm using my ears to discern delay that I cannot find at all.
May I ask
Which devices are you using to get those delay numbers ?

Denon x4000 running audyssey:)

Edit: Come to think about it, 5ms might just equal somewhere around 10m?
 
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Sound speed is 340mt/sec at sea level 1013mb, 20°C, 45% rh .

340 metrs / 1000 = 0,34 meters travelled by sound each millisecond.

5msec = 1,7 meters

Isn't it ?

With a decay time of lets say 300msec
The sound in the room bounch forth and back
Travelling 100meters or more
so that's why I don't see the problem in delay time if any
with dayton wireless transmitters.
 
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A subwoofer is often one of the most difficult items of kit to accommodate. Mainly due to two reasons, how it sounds in any location and how it fits in with the room, so visually/aesthetically.
At least you have a few options available to you so you can try them out and see what looks and sounds best for the room, and you and your family.

Don't forget to plan the cable run ;)


Cabling was the next next question but I've been putting it off due to not wanting to start any squabbling :)

That wireless connector is ideal but is there any signal loss/degradation?

I think the current plan is to nip to Maplin and pick up a cheap lengthy cable. Have a play about with room placement then maybe compare a few cables after everything has settled down.

Rick
 
Cabling was the next next question but I've been putting it off due to not wanting to start any squabbling :)

That wireless connector is ideal but is there any signal loss/degradation?

I think the current plan is to nip to Maplin and pick up a cheap lengthy cable. Have a play about with room placement then maybe compare a few cables after everything has settled down.

Rick
Understand your concern but Maplin is not cheap.
If i can suggest measuring the length required to reach the left and right corner and buy from designacable on EBay you won't go far wrong very good quality at reasonable price
 
Just had a quick look on Maplin site and this should be OK to find the placement of the sub?

ImageUploadedByAVForums1463384901.031205.jpg
 
Ok so just put the measurement in to REW and what a head ache!

What am I looking to achieve on the graph ?
 
It's looking good. Just make sure your listening position is spot on then drag the sub around the room. You want the graph to be as flat as possible and you will see it go up and down as you move. Take 75 db as your centre/target. If it goes higher we can talk about sub eq, if it's low it's a null and a bigger problem.
 
Ok so just put the measurement in to REW and what a head ache!

What am I looking to achieve on the graph ?
Looks pretty good, an easy peak at 30hz to trim. Very similar to mine, leave it there and just run Audyssey or an Antimode if you have one
 
Looks pretty good, an easy peak at 30hz to trim. Very similar to mine, leave it there and just run Audyssey or an Antimode if you have one

Look where the sub is just now though, dead centre of the room where his tv stand is. It needs to be left or right of that position or a side wall maybe ;)
 
Front left or right then.. Do you have an Audyssey equipped amp or an Antimode Rick?
 
It's looking good. Just make sure your listening position is spot on then drag the sub around the room. You want the graph to be as flat as possible and you will see it go up and down as you move. Take 75 db as your centre/target. If it goes higher we can talk about sub eq, if it's low it's a null and a bigger problem.


Thanks, seems setting the cross over filter to 110hz seems to help a lot
 
Latest pic with 110hz cross over and sub in the front right corner.
ImageUploadedByAVForums1463391895.141091.jpg


Query though....

I'm guessing the REW doesn't take in to account that the Arendal subs are side firing, or is it irrelevant ?

I've got the Audiolab 8200 processor which has no room correction and no Antimode just yet :-(
 
Sound speed is 340mt/sec at sea level 1013mb, 20°C, 45% rh .

340 metrs / 1000 = 0,34 meters travelled by sound each millisecond.

5msec = 1,7 meters

Isn't it ?

With a decay time of lets say 300msec
The sound in the room bounch forth and back
Travelling 100meters or more
so that's why I don't see the problem in delay time if any
with dayton wireless transmitters.
Good approximation is 1ft = 1ms (speed of sound 1100ft/sec compares quite well to 1000ms for rough calcs)
 
And I'm guessing I can't set the sub's SPL with an iPhone app :)
 
Latest pic with 110hz cross over and sub in the front right corner. View attachment 715772

Query though....

I'm guessing the REW doesn't take in to account that the Arendal subs are side firing, or is it irrelevant ?

I've got the Audiolab 8200 processor which has no room correction and no Antimode just yet :-(
Be a simple fix if you had some form of EQ. I'd probably try and get it as flat as possible if you haven't got EQ.
 
Latest pic with 110hz cross over and sub in the front right corner. View attachment 715772

Query though....

I'm guessing the REW doesn't take in to account that the Arendal subs are side firing, or is it irrelevant ?

I've got the Audiolab 8200 processor which has no room correction and no Antimode just yet :-(

You can change the orientation of the driver in REW so its facing the wall and then you can account for the space you will need to leave. Once you find the optimal position and the old wallet has recovered you can you look at an Anti-mode or some other room EQ. You will probably end up with some form of peak which will make it sound boomy until its EQ'd.
 
It's not so much the wallet as the wife, she just appreciate home AV.

I'll have a look at changing the orientation when I get back. Dropping the kids at Nursery so i get a few hrs to play :)

Also gunna head to Maplin to look for an SPL meter for the sub.
 
Don't forget you can also try the Sub with the driver facing into the room and see which you prefer. For a SPL I use the app SPL Meter for ios which I believe gives better results than the Radioshack Meters. I think Dodge did some testing with this and came to this conclusion. I think it costs a couple of quid to buy.
 
I haven't used the SPL Meter App. I've only ever used the RadioShack meters and I have the Digital one at the moment.
 
Don't forget you can also try the Sub with the driver facing into the room and see which you prefer. For a SPL I use the app SPL Meter for ios which I believe gives better results than the Radioshack Meters. I think Dodge did some testing with this and came to this conclusion. I think it costs a couple of quid to buy.

I have the SPLnFFT on my iPhone which was recommend by a forum member. I was under the impression they were OK for doing the speakers but not accurate for the subs?
 

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