That sucks. Another reason to keep my sub 3
'doesnt your sub 3 fall off a clif after 20hz? isnt that rubbish?'
Now I don't actually mean what I just asked you.. but you sound like a knob be-littling Quora's recent new purchase just because its the newer more updated version of yours and you want to try and attach or suggest its not a neccesary or valuable upgrade to your sub3. (FYI it is worth the cash for that phenomenal straight line to 10hz and dual driver design)
Quorra, you should ask mark for some advice on subwoofers.. clearly if ur changing the settings in audssey like the physical distance, u probably understand subs less than me and are out of ur depth.
An REW + UMIK + Proper placement of the subwoofer will get you 60% there. Ask one of the more knowledgable members like Mark do help you with REW and you'll get the other 40-45% of the potential of ur subwoofer. I cannot highlight the above more.. u need to put the subwoofer in the right place (and no its not next to the front speakers, its where u get the best response and u can only reliably know this with a UMIK and REW).
No way in hell should the subwoofer working as it should sound ANYTHING near what the towers, ported or unported, should be able to produce... the subwoofer should be in a different STRATOSPHERE and causing you to think ur room is going to tear down.. and it will get there trust me
in terms of running the sub hot.. u do that after u have done the above. the bass should sound tight, fast articulate. THEN you can run the sub hot and add +4, +6, +8.. +10db... whatever you feel sounds good to you and your system. Tight bass has a VERY addictive, tactile, visceral impact that the other ends of the sound spectrum dont have and you might find yourself slowly bumping it up to extreme levels and it not ruining but enhance the film instead.