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Anyone got a 2.35:1 screen?

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by Gary Lightfoot, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    I'm thinking of making an 8ft 2.35:1 screen as my loft roof prevents me from going any larger than 7ft wide if I use a 16:9 screen.

    I haven't checked out the viability of keeping the fixed height ideaology for 16:9 but I'm considering arranging things so that 16:9 sits inside the 2.35:1 filling the height (black bars at the sides), then zooming out to make the image bigger to fit the 2.35:1 ratio for those movies that are that ratio (provided the zoom can facilitate that).

    Vutec will make a screen in that ratio, but I haven't seen anyone else advertising this, but I will probably us their 1.3 gain bright white material if I go down the diy route.

    I would like some opinions from people who've got a 2.35:1 screen so I can get an idea of the pros and cons etc before deciding what to do. My current seating arrangements mean that I'll end up sitting at a ratio of 1.5 rather than my current 1.8. but I don't think screendoor is going to be an issue though.

    TIA

    Gary.
     
  2. Donnacha

    Donnacha
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    Gary, good idea - I've the same issue in my loft and also thought about doing something similar - but me and DIY don't get along!!
     
  3. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    LOL, fair enough :)

    Vutec will make 2.35:1 screens, so I might give Retro a call and see what kind of prices they do.

    Currently I have a 7ft wide by 47.25inch 16:9 screen. If I go to 8ft wide 2.35:1, a 16:9 movie will then only be 6ft wide and 40ins tall. Not a huge reduction in size from 7ft but I'll have to see if I can physically zoom the pj up and down to fit those two sizes without having to move the pj backwards and forwards.

    Another option is an anamorphic lens to remove light spill or opticall stretch it sideways. Will have to have a play this week and see what can be done.

    Gary.
     
  4. homeagain

    homeagain
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    Don't forget Carada make 2.35 screens, as well as 2.05 'compromise' screens. They'll build it to whatever width you want and charge you same as the next size up from their prebuilt range.
    Cheers, Rob.
     
  5. Gordon @ Convergent AV

    Gordon @ Convergent AV
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    'm sure if you ask most screen manufacturers will do you a 2.35:1 screen.

    Gordon
     
  6. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    Hi Rob,

    Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

    Gordon,

    I guess I shoudl just ask around. Do you have much experience with 2.35:1 screens and set-ups? Any feedback or advice appreciated.

    Gary.
     
  7. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    I've gone the DIY screen route again at the moment (wooden frame and blackout cloth), and I'm testing out an horizontal anamorphic lense that has a pass-through mode for 16:9 - you just twist two knobs and it optically stretches the image sideways to fill the screen. You have to use the projector, scaler or HTPC to increase the height of the 2.35:1 movie so the image fills the screen height by replacing the black bars with image.

    The lens is a Prismasonc H200, and it works quite well - it affects the focus a bit but that could be considered to give a more filmic look to the image, though that would be down to personal preference. It also has a small amount of 'pincussion at the top and bottom, but this is not too bad and hardly noticable once you're watching a movie, especialy if you can lose it in the black borders of your screen. Some chromatic aberration is visible at the left and right sides but not is not visible in the image itself during a movie - I'm sitting around 1.5 screen width away.

    Looks like a very viable method for fixed height variable width, and a lot easier than zooming in and out and using the lens shift. The anamorphic lens keeps the pixel height at it's minimum and stretches them sideways, so pixel visiblity is kept to a minimum and allow better use of the projectors resolution, so the anamorphic lens is the better option.

    I'll try to get some pics done.

    Gary.
     
  8. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    My digital point and shoot camera is crap for taking screen shots, so I need a digital SLR or something. I have an old film SLR (Canon A1) but can't be bothered with the developing lark. Anyone got any recommendations for a digital camera that works well in low light?

    Gary.
     
  9. inzaman

    inzaman
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    Gary, how did you get on with this? As i would be interested to hear (or read) your opinion.

    This is one of the options i looked at and was keen to go for but i just didnt have the width once i had factored in the door and speakers. I wanted to keep the 16:9 size at six foot width and then go wider for the 2.35, keeping the same height but as i say it was that bit too cramped.
     
  10. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    Hi,

    It worked out quite well, so I've decided to go with it. I got the H1000 lens in the end and that's an improvement in every respect over the H200 so I'm quite pleased with the results. The H200 was pretty good but the H1000 has anti-reflective and ant-chromatic caharacteristics, and both the pincushion and focus effects are reduced quite a bit. A longer throw lens would remove the pincushion totaly, but I'm going to add a black felt frame to the screen and lose the overspill in that. Maybe a curved screen later on will be the best idea though (but probably more hassle than it's worth).

    Sitting at THX distance for 2.35:1 movies (1.54 x screen width) is very immersive, and due to the lens there is no screendoor and a very pleasing image. It's currently running below 12ft lamberts on the blackout cloth, but is still very watchable. I'm going to get some Draper M1300 material as this is the closest to 1.3 gain (after Stewart Filmscreens Studiotec 130) according to projector centrals measuring of various screen materials.

    There are some pics on my website if you've not already seen them and I will be getting some new screen shots to show the lens in action. The H78 pj has a vertical stretch mode which loses the black bars from scope movies so all the 16:9 DMD panel is being used for image, and the lens stretches it sideways to fill the screen.

    I'm not sure what I will do for 16:9 movies as they will be brighter than scope movies, but I have a few options - one is to use the PC to scale the image to 16:9 while keeping the lens in stretch mode. This will not use the full resolution of the panel but allow easy switching without having to adjust the H1000 lens (not a good option for 16:9 high def material but OK for SD). Another method would be to place some ND filter material over the lens to reduce the lumens, or I can put the projector into high lamp mode for scope movies and low lamp for 16:9. I'll have to see how it all looks once I've got the new material in place though.

    I will try to get some pics up to show the lens in action though.

    Overall I think it's a better option than a 16:9 screen as although the area of each has been transposed (16:9 used more screen area than 2.35:1, but now it's the other way round) it's how it should be and so more cinema like. Definitely worth it if you can justify the cost of the lens IMHO. Of course this only works if you have a pj, scaler or HTPC that can vertically stretch scope movies to remove the black bars. Using the pjs zoom will work but you lose more resolution and brightness and the image does have a less smooth look to it (bigger pixels).

    Gary.
     

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