Any oil pump/heating engineers about?

PsyVision

Distinguished Member
I'm wondering if any oil pump/heating engineer is able to offer some advice?

It seems our Riello RDB kerosene burner (https://www.rielloburners.co.uk/images/content/downloads/RDB1-2_2902489-18.pdf) has developed a leak.

I've previously used the Gauge connection to bleed air out of the system (Fig 13 on page 15) so this was the first thing I checked last night, I tightened it up and it looked OK.

It appears more oil has leaked out today so this is not the problem, I'm wondering if it may be the suction/supply line that's the problem (either a loose connection or a gasket that's gone)...

What I want to know is if I remove the supply line, will oil leak out of the system at a rate of knots or will I have enough time to assess whether the gasket (if indeed there is one) is broken?
 

RBZ5416

Distinguished Member
There should be an isolation valve/tap somewhere between the outlet of your tank & the burner. If you can find this & shut it off then leakage should be minimal.

But first, I'd clean all around the pump, top & bottom then place a sheet of carboard underneath & see where the oil is hitting the cardboard. Then check upwards of that point bearing in mind that gravity could cause a leak from one place to appear in another.

I had a leak recently that I was convinced was coming from the pump but after a tip from a pro, tried the cleaning method. I traced mine back to the solenoid actuated valve that allow fuel to flow to the pump, which is actually on top of the pump. The leak was hidden by the solenoid itself. P.19, fig. 18, item 3. That's actually the solenoid but you can see the valve stem it sits on. It's held in place by a knurled nut. If you remove the nut you should be able to slide the solenoid off the valve. If it's wet then there's your leak. Post back if that is the source & I'll add some more info. DON'T TRY TO TIGHTEN THE VALVE!
 

PsyVision

Distinguished Member
There should be an isolation valve/tap somewhere between the outlet of your tank & the burner. If you can find this & shut it off then leakage should be minimal.

But first, I'd clean all around the pump, top & bottom then place a sheet of carboard underneath & see where the oil is hitting the cardboard. Then check upwards of that point bearing in mind that gravity could cause a leak from one place to appear in another.

I had a leak recently that I was convinced was coming from the pump but after a tip from a pro, tried the cleaning method. I traced mine back to the solenoid actuated valve that allow fuel to flow to the pump, which is actually on top of the pump. The leak was hidden by the solenoid itself. P.19, fig. 18, item 3. That's actually the solenoid but you can see the valve stem it sits on. It's held in place by a knurled nut. If you remove the nut you should be able to slide the solenoid off the valve. If it's wet then there's your leak. Post back if that is the source & I'll add some more info. DON'T TRY TO TIGHTEN THE VALVE!

Thank you!

So now I'm home I've had a better look. It looks as though it's coming from either the solenoid OR the Auxiliary pressure test point, it's quite hard to tell. I'll go take another look to see if I can confirm. I've never touched the Aux test point before so it wouldn't be something that I've not done up tight.

The supply line looks dry so that's not the cause.
 

RBZ5416

Distinguished Member
Any leak is likely to be quite slow. Try cleaning around the solenoid & then leave a clean piece of kitchen roll wrapped around it. If the kitchen roll gets wet with oil then bingo.
 

PsyVision

Distinguished Member
Any leak is likely to be quite slow. Try cleaning around the solenoid & then leave a clean piece of kitchen roll wrapped around it. If the kitchen roll gets wet with oil then bingo.

It is the solenoid by the looks of it. I've seen that you can get a spare pin part of it that has an o-ring on it?
 

RBZ5416

Distinguished Member
One of these? RIELLO SOLENOID VALVE / NEEDLE RDB STEM 3007582 3007871 - Heating Parts

Or is there a possibility something needs tightening?
Yes, that's the part although double check it's the correct one for your pump. I paid around £18 from a local heating spares place.

You can try nipping it a bit tighter but here's were the previous warning come in. The "nut" that locks it in place is very shallow. It also sits in a recess on the pump body so is damned difficult to access. The correct tool would be a box-spanner over the top, but most cheap box spanners are compressed in the shaft, preventing fitting over something so tall. Despite looking like a fairly substantial piece of brass, it is in fact a very thin-bodied cylinder. So if you were to give up on trying to get a spanner in there & try to tighten it with, oh I don't know - a pair of molegrips?, you'll kill it. :blush:

If you don't have said box-spanner you'll need a thin spanner with very flat edges. When I replaced mine I could see no damage at all to the O-ring but it isn't available as a part anyway.

Apparently the easy way to work on it is to disconnect the burner completely. The nut P. 8, fig. 1, item 4 but I was only told that after the event! Even with the control box cover & boiler side panel off it was hard work. So might be worth enquiring what an engineer would charge, especially if it's due a service anyway.
 
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PsyVision

Distinguished Member
Yes, that's the part although double check it's the correct one for your pump. I paid around £18 from a local heating spares place.

You can try nipping it a bit tighter but here's were the previous warning come in. The "nut" that locks it in place is very shallow. It also sits in a recess on the pump body so is damned difficult to access. The correct tool would be a box-spanner over the top, but most cheap box spanners are compressed in the shaft, preventing fitting over something so tall. Despite looking like a fairly substantial piece of brass, it is in fact a very thin-bodied cylinder. So if you were to give up on trying to get a spanner in there & try to tighten it with, oh I don't know - a pair of molegrips?, you'll kill it. :blush:

If you don't have said box-spanner you'll need a thin spanner with very flat edges. When I replaced mine I could see no damage at all to the O-ring but it isn't available as a part anyway.

Apparently the easy way to work on it is to disconnect the burner completely. The nut P. 8, fig. 1, item 4 but I was only told that after the event! Even with the control box cover & boiler side panel off it was hard work. So might be worth enquiring what an engineer would charge, especially if it's due a service anyway.

Thanks - I've found your post on another forum discussing this!

I think my pump is slightly different as it looks like this - see at 2:23 where there doesn't appear to be a nut on the top, instead the screwed on panel
 

PsyVision

Distinguished Member
Here's the badger
 

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RBZ5416

Distinguished Member
Thanks - I've found your post on another forum discussing this!
Then you now know as much as I do!

Have you looked under the solenoid & seen the screws or just going by that video? If so no harm in trying to tighten the screws (if you can get to them!). Otherwise next step is to check with Riello.

Edit
This image seems to suggest it's a similar valve but just covered by that plate. Definitely one for Riello I think.

riello-40-g7-exploded.jpg
 
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RBZ5416

Distinguished Member
Better pic here. So it looks like in this case the O-ring sits on the shaft & is then sealed by the plate. This is from an R40 burner.

riello.JPG
 

PsyVision

Distinguished Member
Thank you! I've got a guy who might come tomorrow, failing that I may take it apart a bit more and see what's what myself.
 

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