Another diy cylinder subwoofer!!!

[email protected]

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Hey guys im after someone with more brain cells than me to help me decide on what speaker and what lenth my sub should be. i got 8ft of large gas pipe from some friendly men on the road which me and my brother are planning to build two svs style subs.

PICT1765.jpg


i have seen a couple of speakers below so let me know if there any good for what i need. the plastic tube is now 4ft long and 1" thick and is very heavy!

JL Audio 12W3v3-2 12" 2ohm subwoofer - Mega Watt

Buy Fusion CP-SW120 Subwoofer

if someone lets me know the amount of litres i need i should be able to work it out.:smashin:

sub.jpg
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
With a tune of 20 hz and a 12 inch driver, you could use a 100mm port and would have dimensions like this

gaspipesonosub.png

This is just something I've done quickly, with your current length tube. The driver you choose may be slightly different to the one I chose as far as parameters so these figures may change slightly. Your cylinder comes out at approx 141 litres effective. If you want to experiment with some different tunes etc, then download sonosub.exe. Other than that, get some mdf and get building..!

What are you putting on the outside?
 
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[email protected]

Active Member
Do you know how to use WinISD? i can give you a hand modeling different subs for you?

You seem to have around 4 cubic to work with, those drivers might not be suitable, have a look at the JBL-GT5 for a cheap build, if you want to spend more, have a look at this driver:

RSS315HF-4 - Dayton High Fidelity Subwoofer 12 inch - Europe Audio

What amp will you use? It this mostly for Home Theater? :)

its going to be used for a home theater and i would like to keep it at around 4ft, dont mind spending around £150 on the speaker. :D open to recomendations on the amp. how about the behringer 2500?
 

[email protected]

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Do you know how to use WinISD? i can give you a hand modeling different subs for you?

You seem to have around 4 cubic to work with, those drivers might not be suitable, have a look at the JBL-GT5 for a cheap build, if you want to spend more, have a look at this driver:

RSS315HF-4 - Dayton High Fidelity Subwoofer 12 inch - Europe Audio

What amp will you use? It this mostly for Home Theater? :)

With a tune of 20 hz and a 12 inch driver, you could use a 100mm port and would have dimensions like this

image

This is just something I've done quickly, with your current length tube. The driver you choose may be slightly different to the one I chose as far as parameters so these figures may change slightly. Your cylinder comes out at approx 141 litres effective. If you want to experiment with some different tunes etc, then download sonosub.exe. Other than that, get some mdf and get building..!

What are you putting on the outside?

like i say im open to recomendations on the driver, more watts better? going to carpet either with black like an svs or maybe wife friendly cream!
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
It could look very nice if you do it right. You could always push the boat out a bit and get one of these drivers.
Q Series - #1 choice for Subwoofers •|• BladeICE.com •|•
You could fit a 1000 watt 12 in there. In fact if you just had the basket fitting inside the cylinder, rather than the whole driver, which is how I've done mine, you could fit a 15 in there. No more difficult to do really and not much more money.
A bit more than your budget admittedly, but it would rock. I've got 2 of these drivers myself and they're good. You could also potentially get a plate amp if you're not getting 2. I had a 500w plate amp powering my last cylinder with a 1000w 15 in there and it managed fine. The benefits of that over the behringer are that no fan equals silent running. You can get a used plate amp for about £125-150, I sold my last one on here for £145.
If you're thinking of building a partner to this one though at some point, a behringer would be a good bet and you can always do the fan mod to make it much quieter, although it does add some to the cost (about £25 if you use a drop in replacement).
 
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[email protected]

Active Member
It could look very nice if you do it right. You could always push the boat out a bit and get one of these drivers.
Q Series - #1 choice for Subwoofers •|• BladeICE.com •|•
You could fit a 1000 watt 12 in there. In fact if you just had the basket fitting inside the cylinder, rather than the whole driver, which is how I've done mine, you could fit a 15 in there. No more difficult to do really and not much more money.
A bit more than your budget admittedly, but it would rock. I've got 2 of these drivers myself and they're good. You could also potentially get a plate amp if you're not getting 2. I had a 500w plate amp powering my last cylinder with a 1000w 15 in there and it managed fine. The benefits of that over the behringer are that no fan equals silent running. You can get a used plate amp for about £125-150, I sold my last one on here for £145.
If you're thinking of building a partner to this one though at some point, a behringer would be a good bet and you can always do the fan mod to make it much quieter, although it does add some to the cost (about £25 if you use a drop in replacement).

i like the look of the dayton as it goes down to 20hz but its just jumped up £20 online!:thumbsdow i only plan on running one of these subs as my brothers having its evil twin :devil:
like the idea of a plate amp apart from it taking up space inside the cylinder.
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
What do you mean the dayton goes down to 20hz? Most drivers that you'll be considering will go to 20hz or lower, it's the enclosure that you're putting it in that will affect the tune that you get from it. I had a plate amp mounted in a separate box when I had mine to be honest, it wasn't in the cylinder. Maybe not a perfect solution, but it worked well at the time.
 

[email protected]

Active Member
What do you mean the dayton goes down to 20hz? Most drivers that you'll be considering will go to 20hz or lower, it's the enclosure that you're putting it in that will affect the tune that you get from it. I had a plate amp mounted in a separate box when I had mine to be honest, it wasn't in the cylinder. Maybe not a perfect solution, but it worked well at the time.

sorry my bad! would love a nicer speaker like the one you showed me but even the dayton at £190 may be pushing my budget. good idea about the plate amp. im using a plate amp at the mo to run a pair of bass shakers.
whats the better speaker, the DAYTON RSS315HO-4 or Dayton RSS315HF-4
 
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Ok, bit of guess work going on here, so i'm going to lay it on the line! ;)

Yellow = 4 cubic feet sealed JBL 1514 15" price 100

Blue = 3.5 cubic feet ported JBL GT5-12" price 50

Gery = 3.5 cubic feet ported Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" price 160+

Go with a Behringer EP2000/4000 for power, the ported subs need a High Pass Filter, a 4" port will not really work that well, port air speed 33 m/s +

I would go sealed in your case, you get good SPL, and great extension!

The Models were done with 400 watt.

When you factor in "pressure vessel gain" and "boundary gain" with two subs i would say you will see 110db-120db from 20Hz to 80Hz, basically very good!
 

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[email protected]

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Ok, bit of guess work going on here, so i'm going to lay it on the line! ;)

Yellow = 4 cubic feet sealed JBL 1514 15" price 100

Blue = 3.5 cubic feet ported JBL GT5-12" price 50

Gery = 3.5 cubic feet ported Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" price 160+

Go with a Behringer EP2000/4000 for power, the ported subs need a High Pass Filter, a 4" port will not really work that well, port air speed 33 m/s +

I would go sealed in your case, you get good SPL, and great extension!

The Models were done with 400 watt.

When you factor in "pressure vessel gain" and "boundary gain" with two subs i would say you will see 110db-120db from 20Hz to 80Hz, basically very good!

Hi homeboy, thanks for the advice. a 15" may be a bit tight and change the look of the sub as i was looking for a downward firing combo. the dayton sounds to sexy to pass so this is the route i believe me and my bro are going to take. do you think it being a 4" port is not going to cut the mustard? pete shows the sonotube calculator being 4ft? also would this give a svs13 ultra a run for its money? regards, chris.
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
I'll do some port calculations later, think 4 inch would probably be ok though if you're going for a 12. You can get 150mm for a 15 easy enough. I've just fitted an 18 inch driver in an 18 inch tube so it is possible for you to fit a 15 if you wanted. I don't know that it would best an ultra but I think with a decent 15 you'll be getting close though. Should be a decent sub whichever you choose
 

[email protected]

Active Member
I'll do some port calculations later, think 4 inch would probably be ok though if you're going for a 12. You can get 150mm for a 15 easy enough. I've just fitted an 18 inch driver in an 18 inch tube so it is possible for you to fit a 15 if you wanted. I don't know that it would best an ultra but I think with a decent 15 you'll be getting close though. Should be a decent sub whichever you choose

i would have to place the speaker at the top if i used a 15" as there would be no room for the feet unless i just sat it on the floor. think maybe a 12" is the way. so ill have to cut it down to 3.5ft or leave at 4ft?
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
You just have to build the bottom end cap a bit wider and use thin feet that fit around the perimeter of the driver. It would be possible to fit it at thebottom trust me, I've done it with mine! If you want a 12 though that'll still be cool. You'll be fine leaving it at 4 feet
 
Well even, with the 4" port and a HPF, port air speed is 33 meters per second, now the best designs go for under 15 m/s and most agree that under 24 m/s if fine, but 33 m/s? perhaps is you flared both ends, you would be ok. Also consider using, three, 3" flared ports, this way you could have multiple tunes, say 15Hz, 20Hz and 25Hz.

Consider the 15", look at the model and see that nice extension from 10-20Hz you gain over the ported design.

Your diagram, suggests that the internal diameter is 15.75", meaning the bigger sub will fit, use threaded 8mm bar for feet, or the attach to the bottom stand and your sorted!

I can throw up a model of a Fi 15" sub, as well if your budget can stretch, they are very popular around these parts and could handle 2-3 the power of the subs we have been looking at!

One last option, buy more pipe, and build 4 subs!!! more SPL, better extension, much smoother in room frequency response!!! ;)

John.
 

[email protected]

Active Member
Well even, with the 4" port and a HPF, port air speed is 33 meters per second, now the best designs go for under 15 m/s and most agree that under 24 m/s if fine, but 33 m/s? perhaps is you flared both ends, you would be ok. Also consider using, three, 3" flared ports, this way you could have multiple tunes, say 15Hz, 20Hz and 25Hz.

Consider the 15", look at the model and see that nice extension from 10-20Hz you gain over the ported design.

Your diagram, suggests that the internal diameter is 15.75", meaning the bigger sub will fit, use threaded 8mm bar for feet, or the attach to the bottom stand and your sorted!

I can throw up a model of a Fi 15" sub, as well if your budget can stretch, they are very popular around these parts and could handle 2-3 the power of the subs we have been looking at!

One last option, buy more pipe, and build 4 subs!!! more SPL, better extension, much smoother in room frequency response!!! ;)

John.

alright guys you've talked me into it 15" it is!!!:D what FI driver did you have in mind?
 
Haha, that was easy! :)

I belive it's the Fi 15" Q series, however, there is a new series due out soon? need someone to confirm that?

Would you mind the idea of perhaps building a 16" cube and gluing it onto the bottom of the tube, it would get you around 1.5 extra cubic feet, which would mean you could go ported!

Here is a model of the 15" Q ported in 3.5 cubic feet, and sealed in 4, and again ported in 5 cubic feet (thats the cube mounted to the bottom of the tube) powered with 650 watt (EP4000 Amp)
 

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Member 639844

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Haha, that was easy! :)

I belive it's the Fi 15" Q series, however, there is a new series due out soon? need someone to confirm that?

There is a new driver but no fixed date on when it will be released. Its also based around the same design as the Q series anyway, more of an update than a new driver really from the mumbling I hear. Best to just order a Q, you dont know how long you might be waiting for the proposed new driver.
 

[email protected]

Active Member
Haha, that was easy! :)

I belive it's the Fi 15" Q series, however, there is a new series due out soon? need someone to confirm that?

Would you mind the idea of perhaps building a 16" cube and gluing it onto the bottom of the tube, it would get you around 1.5 extra cubic feet, which would mean you could go ported!

Here is a model of the 15" Q ported in 3.5 cubic feet, and sealed in 4, and again ported in 5 cubic feet (thats the cube mounted to the bottom of the tube) powered with 650 watt (EP4000 Amp)

dont think i can manage 4.5ft and dont think the look of the tubes with cubes would be wife friendly but could probably make it a few inchs over 4ft. would a dayton RSS390HF-4 be better or the fi? as i could probably get one imported from the states.
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
Fi Q15. European distributor is blade ice.
I suggest you download sonosub and input your tube length etc to work things out. It's very easy to use. Any chance you can make the tube floor to ceiling like I have mine and then get another tube for your brother? If you could have the tube cut about 80 inches, with a total height of about 87 inches when you have the endcaps/legs etc on, then it gives you a lot more volume for the tube and gives that driver a bit more room to flex.. It might seem a bit crazy, but it takes no more floor space to have it higher and you can still make it look nice. You could then use a 150mm port and have a 20hz tune easily..
 
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[email protected]

Active Member
Fi Q15. European distributor is blade ice.
I suggest you download sonosub and input your tube length etc to work things out. It's very easy to use. Any chance you can make the tube floor to ceiling like I have mine and then get another tube for your brother? If you could have the tube cut about 80 inches, with a total height of about 87 inches when you have the endcaps/legs etc on, then it gives you a lot more volume for the tube and gives that driver a bit more room to flex.. It might seem a bit crazy, but it takes no more floor space to have it higher and you can still make it look nice. You could then use a 150mm port and have a 20hz tune easily..

as i mentioned before i still have to keep the wife happy and having a 7ft 3" sub in the corner may get me a: a slap or b: a new wife. i know what i'd rather have! :rotfl: thanks on the heads up on blade ice.
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
No worries mate, I understand. But consider it at least.. Tell her it'll look the part. Maybe show her the pics of mine.

Or maybe not...:)

The bigger you go, the lower you can tune. If you want to keep it small, then could you get away with cutting the tube to 56.5 inches? This would give you an effective volume of 127 litres, with a 150mm port you could have a tune of 20hz and everything is looking good. It's a bit bigger than 4 feet, but not that much more.
 

[email protected]

Active Member
No worries mate, I understand. But consider it at least.. Tell her it'll look the part. Maybe show her the pics of mine.

Or maybe not...:)

The bigger you go, the lower you can tune. If you want to keep it small, then could you get away with cutting the tube to 56.5 inches? This would give you an effective volume of 127 litres, with a 150mm port you could have a tune of 20hz and everything is looking good. It's a bit bigger than 4 feet, but not that much more.

ill maybe have around 51 inchs. fi speakers are quite expensive, what about the dayton RSS390HF-4. would that also cut the mustard?
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
I've not heard it, but from reading the specs, it's not as good. It would probably do a reasonable job, but wouldn't be able to perform like the Fi.

How big is your room and how loud will you be going with it? What are you planning on using if for, films or music or both? What tune are you aiming for?
 
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