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Another cheap DIY Projector ceiling mount

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by Peter Parker, Jun 21, 2003.

  1. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    Hi all,

    CPC/Farnell do some cheap metal speaker brackets, and as my plastic Argos one is a little wobbly when you touch the pj, I thought I'd try one of the metal ones. They're only £12.23 a pair, and a bargain considering what you get for the money, and how much 'proper' projector mounts cost these days.

    You can even use it to mount to a back wall if you like.

    I'm quite pleased with it, though I did modify mine a bit to put the pj closer to the ceiling, but now it's rock solid. Straight out of the box, it is approx 10 inches in height, but is adjustable to about 14.5".

    If you want it shorter, you'll have to cut the ceiling tube, then drill a 6.5mm hole through it, and use a needle file to make the hole square for the locking bolt to work correctly. Then cut down the adjusting rod to match. It's pretty easy if you can use a drill, hack saw and a needle file. That will bring it down to approx 4.5 ins. I drilled another pivot hole an inch below, so the bracket is now a little under 3.5ins.

    The only drawback is it is missing one plane of adjustment (like the Argos one). In this case, you can have up/down tilt of the pj, or left/right tilt. The left right is probably better so that you can get the image perfectly straight with the top and bottom of the screen. I used a couple of packing washers betwen the ceiling and bracket on one side to get it level.

    It's very similar to the bracket I made for my old Davis pj, where I used a modified satelite dish bracket. This is much better though.

    There are a couple of other brackets over at CPCs that may be equaly suitable, so it might be worth having a look.

    There are some pics here:

    http://uk.geocities.com/g.lightfoot@btinternet.com/ht1000.html

    The MK2 is below the Argos MK1, along with it attached to an Optoma H77. :)

    HTH

    Gary.
     
  2. Captain chaos

    Captain chaos
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    Gary! My saviour!

    That looks like just what I need to mount mine when I finally get around to buying a projector!
     
  3. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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  4. avanzato

    avanzato
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    I made my mount for a Z1 using the same brackets. Though I leveled mine with some threaded rod screwed into the PJ mounting holes. This rod passed through the holes in the MDF with nuts either side to adjust the length and lock it tight.

    The downside was I had to use it at max extension. Which is where the slight slack between the two tubes meant it moved every time I closed the front flap on the PJ. Shortening it obviously cured that problem for you.

    It was a very easy mount to make but has now been retired in favour of a LMP mount.
     
  5. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    I was thinking along the same lines with the threaded rod in the mdf - it allows adjustment while the pj is up and running..

    LMP mount?

    Got some pics?

    Gary.
     
  6. avanzato

    avanzato
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    LMP are the guys who do the HTPC cases and now do Projector mounts. Their website has pictures, you'll find LMP in the 'our sponsers' link at the top of the page or go direct here

    It beats the unicol in the style stakes :smashin:

    The mount doesn't have tilt adjustment though, so I had to use some packing shims to level it. The ceiling trim covers them up nicely.

    I'll get a picture of mine in situ but as usual I'll need to charge the batteries first.

    cheers
     
  7. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    Thanks for the info. :)

    That's a great price for a pukka mount too - mounts like the Unicol are around £180 IIRC.

    Like you, my mount doesn't have keystone, so shims had to be used. I did try the mount with keystone but no left/right tilt, but found that shimming ahd to be very accurate to get the top of the image level with the screen.

    Keystone is less noticable if you're fractionaly out, and is easily hidden by my screen.

    Look forward to the pics.

    Gary.
     
  8. MrCoopz

    MrCoopz
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    Hello Gary

    I am in the process of making a mount for my Panny PTAE-100

    At the moment it on a shelf upside down and everytime i come to change the wires around or someone jumps up and down the PJ moves and its a real pain to get it centred again.

    this CPC/Farnel Speaker Bracket. (Item Code ST0008166 £12.23) on your site, i would have to mount in on a wall

    like this
    http://www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/scans/ht/ht1000/newbracket1.jpg

    Firstly is this suitable for a Panny and would i still be able to tilt it and rotate it once its secured to the wall?

    Cheers
     
  9. MrCoopz

    MrCoopz
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    I had i think and do i think this would benefit anybody?

    [​IMG]

    That means the individual bolts would raise, lower and title depending which bolts u turn

    Do u think this would work if i made it cuz in my head it usually dosnt :)
     
  10. avanzato

    avanzato
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    Using that bracket and mounting the PJ that way you will have no left/right rotation. Which is essential to have as nothing is ever parallel or level.

    If you're wall mounting then several people on the forum have used TV wall mounts to make adjustable brackets.

    Your leveling mechanism will work though you can just screw the threaded rod into the PJ mounting holes and do away with the lower MDF plate completely.
     
  11. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    Hi Mrcoopz,

    Your problem was the same one I had with the cheap Argos one - plugging or unpluggin meant a slight amount of movement of the bracket, which meant realignment. Generaly that shouldn't be a problem because normaly once set, you shouldn't have to touch the pj again. The metal bracket doesn't move at all though.

    Your design will allow excellent adjustment in all planes except one - left/right swivel. Not a problem if the pj is perfectly aquare with the screen though.

    The swivel could be achieved by packing the bracket on the wall at either the left or right side, or elongating the holes in the mdf or bracket so that you can rotate the pj a little either side.

    You could of course use the swivel part of the second bracket by attaching it to the bottom of the first one - probably need welding to be done properly though, but that would make it adjustable in all planes then.

    Alternatively, an easier method would be to drill a single central hole through the top sheet of mdf and the metal bracket (between the 4 screws) . Then use a single bolt to allow for swivel, and tighten it with a locking nut.

    I've seen the mdf idea used purely 'as is' by the dealer who I bought my pjs from. He has a lower beam in the demo room, and one piece of mdf was attached to that, with the other by the studding and wingnuts like in your design. Ideal for infinite adjustment in all planes provided the pj is square to the creen, and a lot cheaper than a bracket too.

    Cheers.

    Gary.
     
  12. MrCoopz

    MrCoopz
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    Thanks for the replys guys

    I think im gonna give it a go, im gonna do as you did and pack it. Its looks like im gonna have to do alot of packing though.

    What did you use to pack it?

    If that dosnt work im gonna do as you said and drill a hole through the metal bracket and MDF to allow for the left/right movement.

    Gary on the CPC/Farnel Speaker Bracket, is it secure in the position your and my pictures shows?
    Because the component leads are pretty hard to get in and out so they need a bit of pushing and turning to get them in, so i dont wanna get the bracket and find it still moves about :)
     
  13. avanzato

    avanzato
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    I used 'plastic packers' from Screwfix
    You have to spend £45 to get free postage. That's a lot of little packing strips.
     
  14. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    Coopz,

    I used some washers I had lying around and placed them inbetween the ceiling and bracket, with the screws passing through them. You could drill some foreign coins to do the same thing if you have any laying around. :)

    As for secure, it depends on how hard you push! I hold the pj in front if I'm pushing to reduce any movement, and hold it at the back if I'm pulling - that's how the cabling fits to my pj anyway. I can't say if it'll be OK for your cabling or not though, as I don't know how tight things are.

    Gary.
     
  15. MrCoopz

    MrCoopz
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    Its ordered now i need to know a few things so i can get everything ready.

    What size and type bolts do i need to screw into the PTAE-100?

    what thickness MDF do i need for my 2 mounts?

    and which nuts and bolts (thinkness/types ect) are best to use to do the adjusting middle bit?

    am i right in thinking i need 3 wing nuts on each corner?

    1 on Top, 1 on the underside and 1 on the top of the bottom piece of wood?
    (i have confused myself so i dunno what u lot will make of that :))

    Thanks again ;)
     
  16. moss

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    top post m8 ordered some of those cpc bracks, but they cost about 18 in the end, after vat & delivery (still got one spare now I guess) will have a go at fitting it over the weekend now, or when my THIRD yes third replacement AE300 arrives grrrrrrrrrr!
     
  17. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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    I used 6mm mdf for my pj, so I'd think that would be OK for yours.

    I used m4 nuts and bolts IIRC.

    I think you could get away with just 2 wingnuts on each corner for one piece of mdf, and use ordinary nuts to fix the other piece of mdf in place. You only need to move one piece relative to the other don't you?

    Equaly confused Gary.
     
  18. MrCoopz

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    I have had another idea

    Instead of 2 peices of MDF i can use one.

    Attach it to the bracket and use wing nuts to move the PJ directly from the M4 bolts.

    I have to secure the M4 bolts into the PJ first though so they cant move. Then add MDF and then Wingnuts if u know what i mean.

    That should allow the same movements but using only 1 bit of MDF

    Any ideas?

    And sorry to be a pain :)
     
  19. MrCoopz

    MrCoopz
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    I have just re-read the thread and saw that you was gonna use this method Gary so i think u will know how to do it ;)
     
  20. avanzato

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    How I did mine: see picture.

    The rod screws into the PJ mounting hole, the lower nut locks it so it can't come loose. The wing nut adjusts the length and the nut under the MDF then locks the whole thing tight.

    To get the holes in the right place use a piece of paper over the AE100 and poke a pencil through where the mounting holes are and transfer that to your bit of MDF.

    [​IMG]

    HTH
     
  21. MrCoopz

    MrCoopz
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    thanks that pic helps alot

    I went and got some 4mm bolts today from B&Q and tested them in the panny and they seem to wiggle a little bit, does yours do this?
     
  22. avanzato

    avanzato
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    Mine's a Sanyo Z1 which IIRC uses M5 (oops M6) screws.
    They did wiggle a little bit but not much.

    I think threaded rod is better than bolts as it comes in 1m lengths and you cut it to the size you want. I cut mine to 5cm which was a bit shorter than I should have. There was only just enough for me to do the adjustment I needed.

    Also I suspended the PJ from the rods so none of the feet touched the MDF to hopefully avoid bending the chassis. I'm not sure that would make any difference on a AE100 as it has a 4 point mounting doesn't it?

    The MDF in the picture is 18mm which is over engineered I would use something thinner if doing it again.
     
  23. MrCoopz

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    I could get hold of any threaded rod so ill have to use 2" bolts.

    Yeah the panny has 4 mounting holes and ill be using 9mm MDF.

    The bracket should have been here today but UPS just rang me and said they had the wrong address :rolleyes:
     
  24. MrCoopz

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    Gary/avanzato i forgot all about attaching the bracket to the MDF.

    what how big and what type Bolts/Screws are you using and how are you attaching it too the MDF?

    (my bracket isnt here yet so i dont know what size the bracket holes are)

    Thanks

    PS everything else is ready. Lock nuts and bolts on the PJ and the MDF cut and drilled.
     
  25. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker
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  26. MrCoopz

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    ah that means i have to go back to B&Q too get em because they dont have them in town :(
     
  27. avanzato

    avanzato
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    I used M6 hex head bolts with a spring washer, screwed into pronged T nuts hammered into the bottom of the MDF. An M6 bolt is a close fit in the holes of the bracket so using M4 as Gary did might give you enough clearance to angle the projector. The spring washer stops anything vibrating loose as will nuts with a nylon insert.
     
  28. MrCoopz

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    Did u cut the surplus thread off the M6 bolts when u finished or did u leave it?

    I only have 9mm of MDF to go through so what lenth bolt would you recommend?

    Im thinking 20 or 30mm but dont know how big the spring washer and Pronged nuts takes up
     
  29. avanzato

    avanzato
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    The washer is about 1mm thick and the pronged T is 1mm proud of the surface. A 20 mm long bolt on mine meant there was nothing sticking out.

    On a pronged T the threaded part would be in the MDF so you could use a 12mm long bolt if one is available.

    Another way would be to use a 20mm long roofing bolt from underneath through the MDF, then the mounting plate on the bracket and secured with a nylon lock nut from above. you wouldn't need to trim any excess as it would be sticking up.

    I'm not sure if I'm explaining this well, I'd do pictures but I can't used the camera at the mo.

    Have you looked at the Screwfix site yet. It's where I got my bits from and has pictures of them. It will give you some idea of all the fixings that are available.

    And I should correct myself when I said Hex head bolt I meant Socket head.
     
  30. MrCoopz

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    yeah i understand mate

    i was actually talking about doin the bolt from below up through the MDF and Bracket but didnt explain myself properly :)
     

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