Amplifier for ProAc D30RS

I know your speakers, the ATC SCM40, are excellent floorstanders. I also know how long they take to break in fully. It was not 50 hours :)

Yes indeed, it's time to re-run my measurements, see what the FR looks like now. TBH I have only been using DL on the bass frequencies and just enjoying them so much I haven't been tempted to tweak.
 
I dunno. I think there are just too many variables to do it by ear with any degree of reliability.

It's hard enough with the right measurement equipment.

However there's nothing to lose by trying. :)

Another point is burn-in time. 50 hours is plenty for the speakers, but I think 90% of burn-in happens in your brain getting used to the new sound. If those 50 hours were done without you present then you haven't had enough burn-in time of your own. :)

This indeed 👍

The time it takes for your brain to deal with just hearing differences rather than hearing the music is of paramount importance.

For the first however long you’re just listening to speakers.

Once you become acclimatised to the new sound, then you can hear the music properly, and then you can make decisions about anything else.

Ps, ‘room treatment’ always ends up something of an eyesore.

But more importantly, unless it’s done with some skill, mathematically and with accurate measurements it’s likely to make any given situation worse.

It’s also simply unnecessary. Modern DSP is simply superb.

DIRAC, RoomPerfect and ARC Genesis will all make quick work of any room interactions.
 
I was looking at these speakers to go with my Rega Aethos but in the DS version. They go together well.
However I find often a major error of buyers is when they buy new speakers they plonk them directly where their old speakers were. This can lead to major problems particularly if the old toe in is kept. I find newer speakers tend to need less toe in than old ones (mainly due to improved tweeters and cabinet quality). Before starting the blame game ask some questions and experiment. I start off by taking the grills off (as I keep them off anyway) the grills absorb some sound if you rely on high dispersion (high frequencies passing through more cloth isn't a good idea) then place the speakers without toe in (if you had too much this will immediately sound better from my experience). Try different distances from walls, particularly back wall (you might be surprised if the cabinet is well made how close to the back wall you can place speakers). Once you have found the best placement for bass response then slowly start toeing in inch by inch, if you hear no benefit then they are good to go without any.
It might just be that you don't like the sound of those speakers, they are good speakers and worth the money if they suit your listening tastes.
Also when placing speakers use a track you know well that covers bass mids and treble and at least CD quality (i.e an actual CD). Don't use a track or CD that's suggested by someone else if you don't know it.
 
some years back i heard a beautiful proac d30r in a room with some modest arcam a38 amps . simply gorgous . some weeks later heard same speakers with some valve amps in a different room and it was totally dire . I do hope you find something good becuase they can sound fantastic . my suggestion would be a norma amp
 
The Proac D30RS are wonderful speakers. About 5 years ago I owned the Proac D30 R’s. This smaller floor-stander speaker has a big, warm, and very detailed signature. I had them set up in a medium size room and got all the low end I wanted. I play mainly Jazz music. My D30R’s were driven by a Leben cs600 tube integrated amp rated at about 30 watts. This amp had more than enough power and was a fantastic match. I met the previous Proac Distributor twice and he would use a Manley Stingray tube integrated amp to drive his Proac speakers.
 
You will spend more going at this hobby alone or asking questions on a forum. Try to find a dealer that you can trust and work with. Nothing against the big dealers but I think the small audio shops can be more helpful. Big dealers may have to much mixing of electronics. Hopefully, a smaller store will be looking for synergy of electronics through their experience. Your ears will know if it is right. Going back to PolarPacific, I hope your Proac D30rs speakers are working out for you. These speakers are room friendly and work well with lower power amps. Good designed 20-30 watt tube/transistor amps (integrated amps) work well with your speakers. Proac’s were designed to be easy to drive. If you have a local shop in your area that would lone you a piece to demo that would remove some guess work. Remember, a good system will not make poor source material sound good. I recently had the opportunity to listen to some Proac K6 Signature speakers ($30,000) per pair, and for me some of the best recreated sound I have heard. However, they could not make poorly sourced music sound good.
 
Thank you everyone for your input! I will study all the interesting options mentioned here (especially Lyngdorf TDAi 3400, Leben cs600, Manley Stingray).
 
I am now using active ATC SCM40A's but was a big ProAc floorstander fanboy for maybe 25 years. I went from Studio 125 (still remember the first time I heard that midrange on vocals!) to Studio 140 (great bass, no magic) to D30R to D30RS. I loved the D30R but the D30RS are, as others have said, something quite special; the wider frequency response of the later mid-bass allows the crossover frequency to be raised so the ribbon tweeter can relax a little. It sounds like a tweak but I found it a big improvement.

Don't give up on the D30RS whatever you do. Try a bit of positioning for example, though if the 140's worked then you shouldn't be far off; the D30RS bass is of course in a different league so may be doing something to your room but you should be able to work with this. As has been suggested, your current amps (I've had them) are less than the D30RS deserve to give their best.

My D30RS sounded fabulous on the back of a humble-ish Arcam A49 integrated (c.£4k RRP during its brief life); it's a stunningly impressive amp, arguably Arcam's best (and by some margin heaviest) ever, but as rare as hen's teeth now.

If you love Rotel and can afford it, the new Michi looks gorgeous and should have the oomph (technical term) to make the D30RS sing. The old (80's?) Michi would do the same - it's quite beast - but again very hard to come by.

Keep us posted,
Nigel
 
I am now using active ATC SCM40A's but was a big ProAc floorstander fanboy for maybe 25 years. I went from Studio 125 (still remember the first time I heard that midrange on vocals!) to Studio 140 (great bass, no magic) to D30R to D30RS. I loved the D30R but the D30RS are, as others have said, something quite special; the wider frequency response of the later mid-bass allows the crossover frequency to be raised so the ribbon tweeter can relax a little. It sounds like a tweak but I found it a big improvement.

Don't give up on the D30RS whatever you do. Try a bit of positioning for example, though if the 140's worked then you shouldn't be far off; the D30RS bass is of course in a different league so may be doing something to your room but you should be able to work with this. As has been suggested, your current amps (I've had them) are less than the D30RS deserve to give their best.

My D30RS sounded fabulous on the back of a humble-ish Arcam A49 integrated (c.£4k RRP during its brief life); it's a stunningly impressive amp, arguably Arcam's best (and by some margin heaviest) ever, but as rare as hen's teeth now.

If you love Rotel and can afford it, the new Michi looks gorgeous and should have the oomph (technical term) to make the D30RS sing. The old (80's?) Michi would do the same - it's quite beast - but again very hard to come by.

Keep us posted,
Nigel
Hi Nigel,

Thank you very much for your post.

I have bought D30RS after reading your journey with ProAc in 'Which ProAc after Studio 140?'. One year ago I was considering DT8 but after reading over and over the aforementioned post of yours (in my bookmarks), I have decided to give it a try. Now I am 'a very happy bunny' listening to new details, magic midrange and overall refined music flow ;) Interesting thing—I am now able to hear the difference between built-in Rotel TI chip when using Rotel RCD 991's as a transport vs PCM-63 Burr-Brown chip of 991 (especially on various First Press CDs). So once again, thank you for sharing your own experience. I'm very happy that I followed it too.

I am considering Michi X5 based on many recommendations, especially people upgrading from Rotel RC1572 + RB1582 to X5. I like Rotel, and believe the sound is very accurate and balance, but... Just recently I have read the post of D30RS owner upgrading to Audio Research 75SE Power Amp and the SP20 Pre-amp and thinking about doing a demo with a local dealer here in Lisbon who sells both ARC and ProAc. Just want to have a complete different sonic experience. I understand the price of ARC is in the different league but I'm just curious about the law of diminishing returns here...

My goals with the upgrade are:
1) More bass definition at lower volume without tone compensation. This has been mentioned by some who have switched from Rotel's RB series to the X5 (i.e. sound is more articulate and powerful at low volume).
2) More clarity in complex rock passages. The Rotel's RB series gives separation and detail, but there is still a mushy sound sometimes. Although with the D30RS it has diminished noticeably.
3) Squeeze the most out of the redbook CDs. I started listening to them and realised I don't get tired of listening to them at all (unlike high-res in DSD). Maybe Rotel RCD 991 will have to be upgraded as well with time...

I won't give up on the D30RS and will continue to experiment ;)

Ivan
 
So it's all my fault then... :)

Brilliant, sounds like you have a fine approach sorted there. I do believe you're right to try what you can, as I think the D30RS are in a different league from the 140.

The RCD991 is an excellent player. I'd have two suggestions if you want to try others, though I'd leave this until you've got the right amp/speaker combo because that's where the synergy is most apparent IMHO:
1) If you want to try another player, the best I've found at sensible money is one of the Arcam players with a dCS RingDAC inside: Alpha 9, CD92, CD23.
2) If you have the phycial room, keep the '991 as a transport and try other DACs.

All the best,
Nigel
 
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Thanks Nigel, appreciate hint on Arcam CD92, CD23! CD23 looks very promising (even outplaying Cary and Accuphase based on several reviews)...

As for Rotel's 991, I'm planning to keep it. Been really lucky to grab it just for EUR 200 and now reading about R-2R technology implemented in its Burr-Brown DAC, I'm appreciating it more and more (esp. after connecting it as via XLR to Rotel Pre-amp).
 

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