Alloys - Any tips ?

Discussion in 'Motoring' started by Steve N, Aug 13, 2006.

  1. Steve N

    Steve N
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    Anyone got any tips on how to keep your alloys looking good.
    It doesn't seem to matter what I use to clean them, I eventually end up with areas of ground in brake dust and grime that just can't be shifted.
    I'm changing my car in a few weeks time and just wondered if there is anything I can apply, while they are still new, that will keep them looking good. I thought that maybe there may be some sort of coating or something.
    I would also be interested on what other people find best for cleaning them.
     
  2. Beobloke

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    Halfrauds Alloy Wheel cleaner is very good, although if my experience is anything to go by, you do run the risk of finding a spray bottle of it that dribbles more of it down your hand than onto the wheel.
     
  3. Layne RIP

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    There are a fair few waxes now that are designed to be used on alloys.

    Personally i use alot of Meguires stuff... and on my wheels after washing them i tend to give them a quick wipe round with the speed detailer (not the best thing to use) but it does help to keep the brake dust at bay a little longer!!

    I am quite hot on keeping my car clean though so the wheels never really get that dirty!! ;)
     
  4. Hairy

    Hairy
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    Best thing is to just clean them regularly,at the very least once a week.:smashin:
     
  5. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    Get them thoroughly clean properly as part of cleaning your car normally.

    Polish your car a few times with Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

    Finally carefully put 2 layers of Autoglym Extra Gloss Polish on top. If you follow the directions carefully it'll remain nice and easy to keep your wheels clean, as long as you polish again when necessary. Londondecca is the forum member who knows loads about this. :)
     
  6. Londondecca

    Londondecca
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    The trick is to get the wheels spotless before applying any sealants. Wash the wheels and then spray the wheel cleaner, agitate the solution with a soft brush and rinse. It is far better to use a mild cleaner twice than a harsh cleaner once. Rinse, dry and apply something like the Autoglym SRP & EGP. You do not need to buff the SRP before applying EXP. Leave it to cure for about an hour, buff, your wheels will look great and be very easy to clean when the car is changed

    Clean the tyres at the same time and scrub with a upholstery brush, dry and then apply your favourite tyre dressing - leave it on for at least 15 minutes and then buff off
     
  7. rhino2k

    rhino2k
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    the absoloute best way to clean alloys properly, no matter what the cleaner, is to..............

    remove them from the car, you can do a far far superior job, and clean the inside of the rim properly which needs doing fairly regularly (say every 2-3 months) to keep them nice :)
     
  8. Steve N

    Steve N
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    Thanks everyone :thumbsup: (why have they removes the thanks button ?)
    Lots of good ideas there for me to try.
     
  9. Londondecca

    Londondecca
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    100% agree, this is also a good time to clean the wheel arches but dont use a dressing on the plastic
     
  10. rhino2k

    rhino2k
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    to be fair though when you have spent half a day cleaning the car taking the wheels off is no so appealing :D

    i found it better to keep a few hours aside on a seperate day to do them, before cleaning the car is better as you are more motivated to clean it and a quick blast with the hose brings them up good again :D
     
  11. Uridium

    Uridium
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    wonder wheels is the stuff you want. cleans mine in seconds.

    originally designed for use on bikes (chain lube is a nasty sticky mix of oil and glue:( )
     
  12. Joe90sDad

    Joe90sDad
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    But read the warning label on the back of Wonder Wheels - its not advised for certain finishes.
     
  13. Kebabhead

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    It's certain type of alloy wheels such as classic Jaquar wire spoke wheels that it's not recommended to use.

    Have no trouble with it on my alloys - good results all the time

    Even better if your a Costco member as you can get 5 litres for around £9 including VAT
     
  14. Steve.J.Davies

    Steve.J.Davies
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    Coincidence.
    Going to Costco later this week and just put new alloys on wife's car.

    Anyone shed any light on the 'certain types'. How do do/will I know what 'types' and if the new wheels are one of them.
     
  15. rhino2k

    rhino2k
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    if they are laquered alloys they will be fine mate, virtually all alloys are now laquered (and usually painted) finish :thumbsup:

    i believe you need to be careful on some bare alloys :)
     
  16. Bl@de

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    My car used to have a terrible problem of brake-dust build up in what seemed like no time at all between washes. The answer?: I bought some green-stuff replacement brake pads. Now not only does the car brake better, but the alloys stay shinier for longer:smashin: :clap:
     
  17. Steve.J.Davies

    Steve.J.Davies
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    Not trying to be thick here but...

    how do you tell the difference ? between laquered and non laquered etc.

    have attached pic in case anyone knows...
     
  18. rhino2k

    rhino2k
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    they would be fine with the wonder wheels mate :thumbsup:

    if you look at some older cars with aloys you can see when they are "bare" quite easily :)
     
  19. Steve.J.Davies

    Steve.J.Davies
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    This is an M reg car. the wheels are manufacturer replacements. though I believe there was a slight spec change in the intervening years - don't know when.

    that fall into 'older cars' ??

    sorry - but still no yardstick I can use to tell what is a suitable case for treatment and what isn't..
     
  20. rhino2k

    rhino2k
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    they should have a similar finish to your paintwork on the car mate :thumbsup:

    care alloy is generally quite rough and pitted looking, unless it is highly polished, but the it would be laquered anyway to preserve the finish :thumbsup:
     
  21. Steve.J.Davies

    Steve.J.Davies
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    paint work is dark green metallic so they don't -- just joking, though that is colour of paint... :)

    don't look anything like paintwork to me.

    I wonder of there is anyway to find out from part number.

    may have to go to dealers and ask - bet they have some whizzo super stuff to sell me !!

    Not my car, SWMBOs.
     
  22. SeanT

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    Get some Supagard alloy wheel cleaner and sealer off ebay for about a fiver - it works great.
     
  23. Kazman

    Kazman
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  24. Londondecca

    Londondecca
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    Here is Paul Dalton in action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkmZveqyU5E&NR

    The process is straightforward aside from the costly products used. Equivalent products are available in the UK ie clay, gel wheel cleaner etc. Of course the skill is in using the products in the right way but it is possible to get a Concours finish for a lot less money without the need for esoteric products.
     
  25. VXRman

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    I swear by Meguiars, won't use anything else!

    watch for acidic wheel cleaners, they will do damage over time.

    I take mine off once a month and give them a damn good scrubbing, but other than that Meguiars Hotwheels and then a wax when i clean the car (once a week weather permitting!)
     
  26. Big Adam

    Big Adam
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    Thought I'd dig up an old-but-relevent thread rather than post a new one. :rolleyes:

    I want to remove my alloys to give them a good scrub and polish but realised that I know next to nothing about my nuts! At what point do I give them a final tighten and how tight?

    I've read various 'guides' and some say tighten on the jack. Some say do the final tighten on the ground. I can only assume the idea of tightening on the ground is because the jack is possibly unstable and giving the nuts a final 'tweak' could rock the car?

    Considering that I don't own a torque wrench, are there any problems with me hand-tightening the wheelnuts? I feel such an idiot asking these things but in the past, after changing a flat for the spare I've always immediately popped to a garage to have the alloy tyre repired/renewed/replaced. :rolleyes:
     
  27. Marv

    Marv
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    I've always tightened mine when there on the jack and bye hand. Make sure you put some copper grease on the actuall nut to stop it rusting/siezing up before you tighten it back up.

    I never used a torque rench just tighten them up until there tight but not overly tight.
     
  28. Joe90sDad

    Joe90sDad
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    Normally tighten the nuts on the jack so that the wheel is at least sitting snug to the hub. Then finally tighten on the ground. That's how I do it.

    Torque wrenches are pretty cheap now and worth investing in, although most times I don't use one. The torque value should be in your owner or Haynes workshop manual.
     
  29. SeanT

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    Always tighten them on the ground and push down to tighten them. You don't need a torque wrench, just tighten them so that you know you'll be able to undo them again with the same implement - this is sufficient!
     
  30. Daddy k

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    "alloy wheels any tips"

    yes buy round ones ;)
     

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