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AE200 mounting holes (the 4mm ones) exact locations ?

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by Tempest, Nov 4, 2003.

  1. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Pretty much decided to avoid bulky shelves and to allow projector to run with maximum ventilation I'm going to ceiling mount my AE200.

    Being in Engineering (and seeing some mounts) I'm sure I can knock something together pretty easy & make custom height also.

    Anyhow, I understand the AE200 has got four 4mm threaded holes on the base (projector upside down when on ceiling mount)

    Does anyone have the exact locations of these holes ?

    Are they in dead alignment, how far apart are they.

    Distance between the holes at the front and rear (how far apart) and distance fron front to back (how far apart)

    The exact centers of the holes.......... so I can make a start tomorrow... :)
     
  2. Kramer

    Kramer
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    I'd suggest waiting until you've got one yourself - mistakes during fabrication can be costly & more importantly, frustrating.

    :smoke:
     
  3. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Yeah, I know but hey, I'm impatient...
    I may have waited 2 years to order a projector, but I want it working NOW.... :clap: :clap:

    Seriously, If I can get the general position then I can at least make a start a few mm either way would not matter.

    Will have a rummage around at work and see what metal I can find....... :smashin:

    Main pain is going to be having to set it up temporarily so I can then know where to fix it correctly.

    Distance from back of projector (where warm air exits) to the rear wall is my current grey area.
    Although I'm sure if the projector is mounted (almost) in mid air then there will be ample cooling all around the unit. Better than sitting on a shelf.
     
  4. theritz

    theritz
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    Tempest,

    You should allow a minimum of 18" behind the projector - more if the room you're using is usually warm (you'd be surprised how normal central heating combined with 5 or 6 people in for a movie will raise the ambient temperature - cue Messiah on the benefits of air-conditioning !). If you don't leave enough space beind the projector, you'll end up with heat damage to the optics of the projector.

    Your impatience to get everything organised is understandable, but if you have the mounting holes a few mm out, there's a fair chance that you'll warp the frame of the projector when you're mounting it - results in temp/permanent damage in the optics, colour uniformity problems (there's a post from way back on this topic - can't remeber who).

    If you've got the mount made, it'll take you 15 mins at most to make an exact template of the mounting hole positions and drill them in the mounting plate when the time comes - my home made mount took less than 30mins to make from scratch.

    Sean G.
     
  5. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Yeah, it's ok.

    If I make this thing it's gonna be exact.
    I've worked in a precision medical engineering toolroom for many years now and regularly work to a tolerace of .0001 of an inch (One Ten Thousanth) So I think I can manage a bolt hole ok :)

    Going to copy (ish) one of the simply metal brackets I've seen on the net. Nice and plain. I don't need any fancy adjustment as I can custom make from steel.
     
  6. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Started work on my ceiling mount today :)

    Got a steel plate done to attach it to the ceiling.
    Got an 30mm dia aluminium rod made to give the drop the projector needs (can shorten later)

    Can't make the mounting fixture yet as I don't know where the hold are...

    Still, have made a start :)

    Will post pics when I have finished.
    Zero cost is my main priority (helps working in an engineering company)
     
  7. Jonathan100

    Jonathan100
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    I would reccomend that you make the projector mount but not the holes until you get the PJ. None of the holes in the bottom are in any sort of square alignment though they may be equidistant from eachother. Your best bet it to get the pj, put it upside down, get a piece of tracing paper to trace where the holes are and then transfer this to the mount. This surely can't take long and will make sure you get them right. As for working to .00001 of an inch, I can't see this being possible with something that is going to expand due to heat and has room for movement in it anyway :zonked:

    The holes are aligned something like this
    Code:
             __
    _____|  |__
    |         .      |
    |                |
    | .              |
    |              . |
    |                |
    |      .         |
    |__________| 
    
     
  8. IAMGEOFF

    IAMGEOFF
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    I did a clever thing with my mount. I used thick perspex and lined the holes up by eye and drilled. The perpsex looks the dogs gonads mind you.
    Good lock with your job.
     
  9. Sandman

    Sandman
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    Tempest, I made a celiing mount from an argos speaker mount and a bit of mdf. It looks ok but I had to bridge between two celing beams to get it mounted dead centre of the screen.
    It sounds like you know what you are doing. Would you be interested in making one for me for cash? as I quite fancy having a metel one rather than my cheap looking one.
     
  10. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Sandman......... I'm not quite sure at the moment.
    Making a mount has to be done (ahem how shall I put this) during working hours, and with materials that I (ahem) find :)

    Will see how things go but really cannot promise anything.

    I did make a start but having tested the projectors beam angles etc etc and taking measurments it's obvious it's going to have to be a LOT lower than I would have liked to avoid the image being up really high on the ceiling.

    My new idea (spark or inspiration) is to make a aluminium boss, which takes a aluminium rod (this would be about 30mm in dia) and make a corresponding hole in the ceiling to take the 30mm rod.

    Then I could loosen a hand screw to raise/lower the projector between a working height (almost head hitting height) and to raise it up to a few inches from the ceiling when not in use.

    This would offer the best of both worlds. It would just mean supporting the projector whilst you move the support rod up and down.

    The excess rod would move into the loft space.

    Sounds a winner to me :)
     
  11. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Thanks Jonathan100 for that pic.

    Got the unit today and was supprised that the holes were all over the place like that !!!!

    Tracing paper is an excellent idea.
     
  12. Tempest

    Tempest
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    IAMGEOFF:

    Yeah I did think of that.

    Was a bit worried about heat distorting it.

    Have to got the perspex right up against the bottom of the unit, or have you used standoffs ?

    I like the idea of keeping the projector in mid air as much as possible. to allow maximum air from all around it.
     
  13. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Just wondering, where did this figure come from ?

    I can find nothing in the AE200 Manual about this and I can find nothing on the Internet about this.........

    I appreciate that the hot air get's blown from the rear
    (it's a pity it does not get blown from the side but hey that's a different story!)

    I would have thought that say on a shelf/desk where it in on a surface then that would have warmed the unit up a lot more than being suspended in the air where the heat can dissapate instantly.

    Checking mine last night, holding hand behind the unit, I could virtually feel nothing from the rear from 12" away.

    Now please don't take offence. I'm in no way questioning your statement. I'm just wondering where that figure comes from. As it appears not to say anything, and knowing small rooms in houses these days I can imagine a lot of people sticking them on a rear shelf with little back clearance.

    Luckily my room allows me to mount in a good distance away from the rear wall and still maintain a large screen size.

    Have I missed this info in the manual ?
     
  14. Sandman

    Sandman
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    If it is any help to you, I have my projector mounted about 50mm below the top of the screen and the keystone correction is set to zero.
     
  15. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Thank's for that Sandman.

    For my distance away from the wall/screen I found the image to be about 3.5 inches (under 100mm) from the bottom on the center of the lens.

    I will have to fine tune all of this, but I had to make some quick sketches so I knew how to mount the projector in the 1st place.

    Started my new Telesopic mount today, and after lunch had yet another even better idea....

    Wish I would stop having these ideas !!!!!!!!!!!!

    Basically a fold away projector (against the wall) keep dust away from it. Will show a sketch later on here and see what others think.
     
  16. Jonathan100

    Jonathan100
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    I have also recently purchased the ptae200 and I decided to mount it on a top shelf. Ceiling mounted would have been better with regards to ventilation and positioning but my parents said no way. We settled on a shelf simmilar to Calibo's which curves out in the centre. 18" on top of a foot of projector is a huge amount so I do not have this much ventilation behind it. The thing does get warm around where the lamp is, but the other areas of the projector do not seem to be even warm.

    Reading here the figure 18" is said to be the minimum distance behind the pj but I can not find a single official reference to this figure anywhere. The manual mentions nothing other than do not block the vents (duh), the ae100 service manual doesn't mention positioning, or heat damage. I am thinking of getting a fan to blow the exhausted heat from the pj sideways, though I am not really sure that this is necessary.
     
  17. theritz

    theritz
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    ............... The advice may be conservative, but I believe that it is wise to allow sufficient room behind the projector to enable heat to dissipate from the rear vent. Experience of members who have had heat damage to the optics of projectors suggests that such conservatism is prudent.

    You are probably unlikely to find "official references" for that kind of heat damage either - if the projectors operating temperature becomes excessive, it's supposed to shut down, but heat damage still occurs over periods of time without the "cut-out" coming into operation.

    The matter of positioning the projector is one for your choosing - advice is offered in good faith and based on experience - ymmv.


    Sean G.
     
  18. Kramer

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    Not saying the AE200 is "exactly" the same as the AE100 in this respect, but the 100's internal temperature "monitoring" was/is abysmal. Two sensors, one of which is just inside the air intake :eek:

    Stick it against the wall "if that be pleasing you", but I'd say 18" rear clearence is good advice.

    :smoke:
     
  19. Jonathan100

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    Thanks for clearing it up guys. I was not doubting your advice, its just that if there is a reference in the manual to it then should any damage occur and I do not have the full 18" then it could lead to warrenty problems. Its unlikely I know, but if they do not mention it then I should be ok.
     

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