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Action switches diagram : 2 power supplies broken

G

gaarfouu

Guest
Hello,

You can find my diagram hereafter.
I don't undertand because it seems to be very simple but i have yet broken 2 power supplies.

Thanks for your help. :smashin:
 

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AMCross

Prominent Member
Are you feeding the 12 vdc into ALL switches pins 1,2 and 3 and looking for an output on 8

you have three switches

inputs ---------- outputs
1 ------------ -- 6
2 ------------- 7
3 ------------- 8


Why not switch the gnd line input on Pin 1 and output on pin 6
 
G

gaarfouu

Guest
Are you feeding the 12 vdc into ALL switches pins 1,2 and 3 and looking for an output on 8

you have three switches

inputs ---------- outputs
1 ------------ -- 6
2 ------------- 7
3 ------------- 8


Why not switch the gnd line input on Pin 1 and output on pin 6
Yes I feed all the 3 inputs 1/2/3 with 12VDC, so i have 3 triggers available at outputs 6/7/8. I tested the switches without power supply with a multimeter and the contact is ok between 1-6, 2-7 and 3-8 but when i put the power supply i have not 12V but 3V or 4V and after 2 minutes the power supply is very hot and then broken (0V output).

I will try to enter the ground to inputs 1-2-3 and 12VDC to outputs 6-7-8 as you said but i am afraid to break an another power supply.

Thanks for your answer.
 

AMCross

Prominent Member
no problem

i seem to recall the design of the triggers are just for logic signals not power lines

So people have used relays to switch the 12vdc

they should be independant switches so why you are getting such low voltage seems strange

unless you have an internal fault and the relays are not working correctly
 
G

gaarfouu

Guest
Thanks for links !

I have read them before and it seems that the diagram looks like mine :

I made a +12VDC rail, from which I branched three feeds to the A, B and C switches, via a 9-pin sub-D socket.

The + feed from the A switch is routed to the relay's coil, B is run to the "ON" subwoofer trigger, and C is run to the subwoofer's "Film" bias trigger.

I then ran a common direct ground feed to the relay's coil and one ea to the subwoofer's triggers.

=> 12VDC connected to inputs 1/2/3. :confused:
I don't undertand why the power supplies have been broken. How to explain that they were very hot. The only explication will be a bad contact that links +12VDC to Ground ?
 

Bogi

Established Member
Hi,

If I recall correctly, you shouldn't feed any power at all to the action switches, I think they're just passive relays that can control a 12vdc power switch. So it's important that there's no current leakage from the 12vdc unit.

I used to have a setup where the action switches controlled my amps. Unfortunately, I don't recall how I did it but it was a bit complicated. It was really important not to get any current leakage as the switches really only switched on another unit.

Cheers
 
G

gaarfouu

Guest
Thank you very much AMCross and Bogi for your help :)
I just find why i broke power supplies : there were a short-circuit in my mini-jack connector between 12VDC and ground.
Fortunatelly i posted here before trying my last power supply !

Gaarfouu
 

lenny

Established Member
Hi,

I remember that these switches are simply dry contacts. It is suggested to use a relay in the circuit to avoid any power to pass through the AV32R. If you dig in the forum you will find some drawings (I think it was a Ghraam's post).

Lenny
 

canavan

Established Member
Using another set of external relays is recommended if one is switching some "real" load, but using an external set of relays to switch another circuit that's just used to switch the relays inside an amplifier, screen or whatever and draws a similar amount of current that your external relays would draw just doesn't make much sense. If you want to switch 230V or just a bunch of 12V fans, don't run that through the action switches, but if you can get along with a small (a few 100mA) 12V supply for the whole thing, running this through the action switches should not be a problem.

Running mains voltage through the action switches would also be stupid because you'd have that easily accessible on the pins of the DSUB plug when you pull it off the AV32R.
 

edward

Established Member
Hi,

If I recall correctly, you shouldn't feed any power at all to the action switches, I think they're just passive relays that can control a 12vdc power switch. So it's important that there's no current leakage from the 12vdc unit.
Cheers

I'm using current to switch my Bryston and its fine. Mind you, the load is very small.

I think your easier solution is to use an old ATX power supply - the action switch turns it on nicely giving you all the current you want at various voltages.

This is the same suggestion I made in the other thread on action switches.
 

laalves

Established Member
Ahah!

Very interested in the PF50. Steff, how do you find it in terms of voltage stabilisation? I have an AC that sags the voltage to a point that the AV32R gets muted when the compressor kicks in. Is it able to maintain a decent 230V when disturbed?

Luis
 

stef1777

Standard Member
The FP series are filter + switch not regulator (for that you need an double core UPS). My problem was to filter the neighbor drill and other old starter boiler, to have one on/off button for all the hifi stuff, and to switch off the amplifier before the rest of the equipement (no boom in the speaker).

Here, I'm between 220v and 230v with an average of 226v. No problem with the AV32.

.
 

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