I know what a DSLR is ( I have 3 of them).. I wanted to be sure what you you meantwell its kinda like everything in the foreground is sharp and the background is blurred out smoothly Digital single-lens reflex camera - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I did get what he was trying to say it is the shallow depth of field sometimes incorrectly called bokeh ( that refers to the quality of the OOF) but unlessSandfilms isn't too good at explaining what he wants. It seems he's after that out-of-focus effect we got when cameras had real controls. Ho-Ho.
In a nutshell: Keep the subject close to the camera - keep the background far away (to be out of focus, with the subject sharp), then make sure the foreground is always the major part of the picture...this stops the consumer camcorder thinking the background is more interesting. Finally, don't do this in very bright light, as the lens' iris will be shut-down (which increases DoF)....ideally the background should be darker as this helps fool the autofocus. Avoid backgrounds with any striking contrast, this really invites trouble, as I know to my own cost.
. . . . If the camera has manual focus, use it. (but inexpensives ones do not).
I use an adapter for my 35mm lenses (on my NEX5) and this works reasonably well. The effect I really wanted was when two people are talking and the dialogue moves from one to the other...at which point you switch focus. Sadly camera lenses contain grease that prevents a rapid focus change....so I guess, if I get to film my "Masterpiece" it will be done using two separate Takes, one on the near subject and then again on the other. Because the "other person" is out of focus any sync-slippage won't show..... I hope. It will help to switch lighting emphasis much favoured in B&W films.
FWIW, Sandfilms -
I have these three lenses, with the equivalent 35mm focal lengths:
f/2.8 sony zoom 27-82
f/1.8 nikkor 75mm
f/3.5 hoya 300mm
of these the greatest background defocus is the 300mm, even at f/5.6
This focal-range is not as good as you get on a camcorder with super zoom, but the ability to switch lenses is the greater benefit. . . . A 300mm f/3.5 is a whacking big piece of glass, (60mm dia) - which makes consumer camcorders look almost like toys...er, IMHO. The 300mm is mounted on the tripod, with the camera mounted on the back of the lens for balance. (you shift the mount to achieve this). It is a home-made clamp, turned on a lathe. Hope that helps.
In my exerience, that means jerky badly exposed video !im after achieving the dslr look
Not quiteIn my exerience, that means jerky badly exposed video !
well its kinda like everything in the foreground is sharp and the background is blurred out smoothly ....
Sadly some more pocket friendly camcorders are decent but dont have manual focusYou've not said which camcorder you've got. If you have a decent one with manual focus and iris controls you can get near to what you want.
What do you have? for a Camcorder to show decent " bokeh" it would need to have a fast lens, larger sensor and ability to adjust aperture and decent optical ZoomMy camcorder has an SLR equivalent focal length lens of 35mm (at fully wide) and I can manually open the iris to f1.6
M DSLR by coincidence has an similar focal length prime lens that can open to f1.8
I can achieve similar 'soft-blurred background / sharp close-up' video footage with each.
Nice camcorder .. which is it?However, the camcorder is far superior in every area, so I hardly ever use it for video.
How many consumer camcorders have aperture control?Open the aperture as far as it'll go and zoom in. It's not always easy with equipment that wants to do everything automatically.
Camcorder is Panasonic HDC-SD900 and SLR is Nikon D90.Nice camcorder .. which is it?