Acer M550 Owners Thread

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by afzal, Feb 17, 2018.

  1. afzal

    afzal
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    As there doesn't seem to be an owners thread so far, I thought I'd start one.
    My setup:
    AV: Sony STR-DN1080
    Speakers: 5.1.2 - Dali Zensor 3 left and right, Dali Vokal Centre, Dali E-12F sub, Wharfedale Diamond 220 as satellites.
    Sources: a Swiss UHD internet tv box (Sunrise UHD TV) with Netflix, and a HTPC, i5 4570, 8GB ram, with a GT 1030 graphic card and a Samsung 840 Evo system drive.

    I have a dedicated room, 4m x 7.5m, with a 130" Black Widow screen. The projector is ceiling mounted.

    The Acer is replacing my Optoma HD300x which had a bad bulb explosion.
    Settings:
    Super Resolution: 2
    Brightness: 50
    Contrast: 30
    Sharpness: 7
    Brilliant Color: Off
    DynamicBlack: Off (see below)
    AccuMotion: 1 when necessary (if you don't like the video look, leave it at 0, but if you're getting judder move to 1)
    SDR Mode: Standard (according to the 2 reviews on french sites, this gives the most accurate out-of-the-box colour)
    SDR Gamma: 2.2.B.E.2
    HDR Mode: HDR 4
    HDR Gamma: Recommended is 1.8 or 2.0 but I generally stay with 2.2.B.E.2
    HDMI range: Limited for SDR, Full for HDR
    Bulb mode: normal (non-Eco)

    Note: It's been remarked elsewhere that the projector doesn't correctly detect HDR from all sources, but that you can get it by forcing your source to 4:4:4. That's only going to work, though, on 4k 24/25/30 material, as 4k 50/60 are beyond the bandwidth capabilities of HDMI 2.0b.

    The machine only has one memory position, which is absurd given that you're likely to need different settings for SDR and HDR, and possible more for juddering material where you need to activate AccuMotion. The machine is certified ISFcc, with 2 ISF memory modes, but they are only accessible via a code that's given to calibration professionals. Given the low cost of this machine, I doubt many people are going to hire a professional calibrator.

    In the french review, this machine was considered better than the 2 more expensive Acers on which it is based - the H7850 and V7850, and also better than the Optoma UHD550x, UHD60 and UHD65. I've never seen those machines in the flesh so cannot comment.

    One of the reasons I bought this machine is that everywhere I read it said it had both negative and positive lens-shift of 15%. This is false. From my estimates it has a total of 15% leeway, but it works out at best at about +/-7.5%, maybe even +10% and -5%. The position flexibility was a factor in my purchasing it and I had a hard time installing. In the end, I've got a very slight trapezoidal effect (not enough to affect focus at the top or bottom of the screen) and as there is no keystone correction I've just got to live with that.

    The brightness of this machine is amazing, as it the sharpness of the image. I cannot detect any chromatic aberration, focus is constant across the screen, even with slight trapezoidal effect, color is rich and deep. According to the reviews, like the other TI based 0.67 machines, will it can hit Rec.709, it can't do much in P3.

    I've pixel peeped at different UHD test pictures, including the infamous quick brown fox, and compared what I see to the same images on the 4k Samsung UE43KS7580 which I use as my monitor for photo and video editing, and have a hard time seeing any difference. On 4k video material I'm very happy.

    Upscaling seems to be automatic, and there is nothing in the menu to control it.

    I sent my first machine back as there was a whining noise from the XPR unit. I was able to replace it in 24 hours and the new machine is extremely quiet, even without going into Eco bulb mode.

    As reported in various forums, the Acer is difficult to master, but once you master it the results are fantastic.

    The first problem is handshake issues. I went through 3 different certified premium cables before finding one that can consistently handshake with the projector, and doesn't have drop-outs or artifacts. I also had to reorganize my setup to allow me to go with a 5m cable instead of a 7.5m one.

    There are quite a few quirks. First, getting into HDR mode is sometimes difficult. I can consistently manage it from my HTPC which nos has a GT 1030 card, by selecting windows controlled SDR mode, rather than Nvidia 4:2:2 10 bit, and viewing HDR content with MPC-BE using madvr and Lav filters. Other sources are more problematic as you really need to switch from an 8 bit RGB/4:4:4 mode to HDR for the projector to recognize HDR content. This issue has been reported by many people. One could hope for a firmware upgrade to fix it, but Acer aren't noted for doing such upgrades.

    Once you do manage to get into HDR mode, however, the results are tremendous. This really is where the machine shines. Matched to an Oppo or even an Xbox One S, UHD HDR content is outstanding. My HT is a dedicated bat cave, with 0.9 gain 130" screen, so this is a really good environment for this projector.

    Now, let's touch a weak spot of the projector - Dynamic Black. All the XPR DLPs suffer in black floor. Generally, they try to improve blacks by various modulations. On the M550 it's called Dynamic Black. While it certainly improves blacks immensely, I've noticed that it produces artifacts at the white end that are just not acceptable. Violet-blue solarized centre spots in the middle of an area that should be white that sparkle! This disappears immediately if you deactivate Dynamic Black.
    Here's an image with Dynamic Black activated:
    [​IMG]
    The blue blobs in the top of the image move and change form all the time, even on a frozen image.

    And the same without:
    [​IMG]
    You can clearly see the detail of branches in the shadows that are not present in the first image, and the absence of those horrid blue blobs.

    The problem is with blues, and the following colour swaths show:
    With DB:
    [​IMG]

    Without DB:
    [​IMG]
    The solarization ramps in the 2nd image aren't actually noticeable to the naked eye as much as they seem to be here.

    So, I've ended up disabling DB, but then I have to use normal bulb mode or my blacks are too grey. Compromises, compromises!

    In short, this is a great projector at a low price for a dedicated room. I wouldn't want to use it in a room with ambient light, however. I've not tested other Coretronic XPR machines like the Optoma UHD65/60/500x but the French reviewers who have rate this machine as better.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2018
  2. steveprior

    steveprior
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    Looks like we have similar setups, but there don't seem to be many of these about!

    My setup:
    Projector: Acer M550
    Amp: Sony STR-DN1080
    Speakers: 5.1.2 - Dali Ikon 7 left and right, Dali Ikon Vokal 2 Centre, BK Monolith+ & Rel Storm subs, Canton CD10ii surrounds, Polk RC60i in-ceiling.
    Sources: Nvidia TV Shield, Roku Streaming Stick+, HTPC: i7 4770K, 8GB, GTX680; VRPC: i7 7700K, 16GB, GTX1080, HTC Vive. Freesat, Freeview, Project Carbon Debut turntable.

    Ceiling-mounted in a 7.5x4m lounge facing a 2m motorised screen in a room-height window behind curtains. Seating midway (to a third for big films + better Atmos) to the screen.

    I've had this projector for just over 3 months and I use it all of the time, clocking up 665 hours so far, and when it is set up it looks amazing with all content, with Amazon/Netflix stuff working really well (with judicious use of the AcuEngine Color and Motion settings, and occasionally changing the Color Gamma) and 4k mkv's dragging you right in. Try Blade Runner 2049 with Atmos at 2160p+HDR and you'll see what I mean.

    The same can be said of the Sony STR-DN1080. Based on the owner's thread, the main gripes seem to be about the slowness of the menus. Once up-and-running with all settings optimal, just like the Acer, this is an experience better than any before.

    It is now only the recent flickering lamp (in Silent/Eco mode) and the noise (when not in Silent/Eco mode) that are bugging me:

    I've contacted Acer to see what they can do.

    I am still struggling to get HDR to look less dark, but my battle up until now has been getting any useful signal up from the amp to the projector. I'm now awaiting a 15m hybrid fibre HDMI cable from TheMediaFactory then hopefully all of the signals will drop in to place (the Nvidia TV Shield is a way better source than the Roku, which is very limited by the wi-fi signal, but the Shield is MUCH fussier when it comes to recognising the capabilities of the projector through the long Lindy I am now replacing. The Shield also passes through Atmos better than the Roku.

    In my opinion, all the hassle is worth it, and I'm surprised more haven't been sold based on the French review alone.
     
  3. afzal

    afzal
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    I've found that keeping full rather than limited range helps in setting up the projector. In HDR you need to switch between the different HDR settings based on the content. HDR 2 gives great results on bright material. HDR 4 is a bit drastic in many cases. Then you've also got the gamma choice. I don't think there's any ideal settings, but there may be a few case scenarios.
    I avoid using ECO mode and Dynamic Black. I am rethinking of DB could be useful in very dark movies, as the artifacts it creates is at the edge of white clipping.

    I've not seen anyone talk about RGB gain/bias, except one person on a french forum who pushes gain to 98 for all 3 in HDR, while using HDR 4 and gamma 2.4
     
  4. steveprior

    steveprior
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    It's interesting that both my Roku and my Shield push the projector in to HDR 4 when it decides it wants to trigger (HDMI issues again) so I loop through the HDR modes, loop through the AcuColor modes, and play with the Gamma until it looks right for me. I never seem to consider brightness and contrast for some reason.. maybe I'll give them a go. And dynamic black, once the new cable turns up and I've got rid of the artefacts I know are caused by the connections.
     
  5. steveprior

    steveprior
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    Which reminds me. If I am sending an HDR signal but the projector isn't spotting it, can I just use the remote to manually switch in to HDR, or does some other magic need to happen? I've just tried it with Blue Planet II and it "seems" fine..
     
  6. afzal

    afzal
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    The Acer has a notorious blind spot in automatically going into HDR mode. You need to feed it either an RGB or YCrCb 4:4:4 8 bit signal first. Then, send an HDR signal and it should trip automagically to HDR.
    If the info button shows HDR, then you've succeeded.
     
  7. steveprior

    steveprior
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    But if HDR isn't triggered, and I am feeding it an HDR signal, can I just turn on HDR on the remote?
     
  8. afzal

    afzal
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    I've never tried. Do it, but then check what it say when you hit the info button. If it says "HDMI 2/HDR" then I believe it means that it's detected HDR metadata on HDMI 2. If not, then you're just applying HDR curves to something the projector considers to be SDR.
    I have to admit to not really understanding the different HDR modes- off, 1, 2, 3, 4. They seem to be luminosity curves. As you increase, whites get clipped more and more.
    But, you also have a gamma curve, so what's going on here?
    My suspicion is that the HDR modes define what level of nits is considered white as opposed to being a curve, strictly speaking.
    The reason I think this is that HDR should not just make everything brighter. It should give greater differentiation in the whites, and, hopefully, in the blacks. I find that the lower levels of HDR give better results in that sense, while the higher levels make for more punch, but I almost feel that it's not really HDR, just brighter SDR.
    This is a great article on HDR, which I use to make some of my assumptions here.
     
  9. afzal

    afzal
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    Well, after a few weeks with the projector I thought I'd do an update.

    It is a PITA to configure correctly, and half the time you end up doing counterintuitive things to get the best results. For instance, forceing full rather than limited range, then playing with brightness, contrast and gain and bias to achieve the best results with no solarization, rich highlights with no clipping, and uncrushed blacks.

    Sometimes you've just got to adjust based on source content, but bringing together the experiences of other users, here's a set of configurations that work well for most material.
    (Note: Once you've got access to the ISF settings, you've got gain/bias, plus an HSL model for each primary. One French user has used that to punch contrast at the top and the results are quite good. He uses values of 98/100 for RGB gain, and 40/100 for RGB biais. We're waiting for someone with calibration gear to give refined values for these).
    Most people have found that forcing full range rather than limited gives better leeway in keying in settings. Obviously you end up setting brightness and contrast for reference black/white anyway, but the gamma curves seem to work better this way.

    SDR:
    • Brightness 45
    • Contrast 52
    • Colour Temp CT2
    • Gamma 2.2
    • Dynamic Black Off
    • Eco mode Off
    • Sharpness 7
    • Super resolution 2
    • Range Full

    HDR:
    • Brightness 52
    • Contrast 30
    • Colour Temp CT2
    • Gamma 2.0
    • HDR 2
    • Dynamic Black Off
    • Eco mode Off
    • Sharpness 7
    • Super Resolution 2
    • Range Full

    In HDR the choice of Gamma and HDR interact. The HDR values are said to be gamma curves, but you also have gamma settings. Maybe in HDR the HDR settings are strictly luminosity, and the gamma settings chroma. I don't know.
    Higher values of HDR tend to act like a tight S-curve in gamma, crushing blacks and clipping whites. It gives dramatic images with highly saturated colours, but I find it over the top for most material. A setting of two preserves detail in highlights and shadows, in particular when coupled with a gamma curve of 1.8 or 2.0. Again, some people go for bang, picking HDR 4 and Gamma 2.4. On some content that may be fine but I'm happy staying with HDR 2 and Gamma 2.0 most of the time, switching to a gamma of 2.2 if I feel that the image is too grey.

    With these settings I'm getting SDR and HDR images that take your breath away. Blacks are a bit of an issue, but not most of the time. If you're only/mainly watching 2.35 material you might want to consider velvet masking. I really wish I had a system for that.
     
  10. afzal

    afzal
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    fter weeks of trying to calibrate this project I've come to the conclusion that the ISF memories are defective.

    We already know that the HDMI port is very capricious. I went through 6 cables before finding one that works most of the time. Even so, I often have noise, artifacts, and solarization issues.

    A lot of the time when the projector detects an HDR signal it gives a corrupted image, which looks as if everything is being squeezed into a few lines in the middle of the screen, and that the screen is split in two left/right. The only way forward is to either close the HDR source and restart it, or try selecting the VGA input, then going back to the HDMI one to force the projector to try to reconnect with the signal.

    The real problem, however, it the ISF memories. As my probe is too old, I've only tried the most basic of eyeball calibration using SDR and HDR black and white clipping videos, and a few colour swathes, with a goal of eliminating noise et solarization, and getting correct greys and whites.

    The effort has been frustrating for a few reasons:

    1. Some of the time the projector will say its using my ISF settigns, but the image on the screen shows that it obviously isn't - with clipping at both ends, solarization ,etc. You have to go into another mode, like silent or bright, and then back to the ISF mode to get it to respect the settigns.

    2. Except, sometimes doing that causes values in the ISF setting to reset randomly. Brightness and contrast settings for one ISF get values from the other, or revert to older values I used. Red gain and bias keep resetting to their default value of 50, while blue and green gain and bias stay at their assigned values.

    3. There are 4 HDR gamma curves, but in HDR the SDR curves are also applied. So HDR 4 with 2.2 is different to HDR 4 with 1.8.It doesn't make a lot of sense to me and it makes the calibration even more complex.

    So, I'm not going to spend more time calibrating. Here are the settings I finally (try to) use. It's in French, but I'm sure you can figure out what's what.
    [​IMG]
    Note:
    Dynamic Black is broken, and creates purple solarization in whites. As a result, I never use Eco mode, but leave it in standard. In this mode DB do anything in any case.
    I've found it easier to calibrate by using full dynamic range in both SDR and HDR.
     
  11. jumguf

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    Potential M550 buyer here, still a bit on the fence ... :)

    You guys still happy with your M550? Best indicator seems to be this review from a rather serious french reviewing site; TEST ACER M550 : DLP 4K 1999€ - Projection et Homecinéma
    Other than that, it's like this projector is really a sleeper, because there's next to nothing to be found in terms of reviews/testimonials out there.

    How is it with the rainbow effect on this thing? It has another kind of color wheel than what I read about in most cases ... RGBCMY?
    I saw both the Optoma UHD60 (RGBCY) and UHD40 (RGBRGB) recently, and saw clear rainbows on both, although pretty tolerable on the UHD40. However I was less impressed with the sharpness of the UHD40 compared to the UHD60, which is what I really would like more of, comparing with my Epson TW6700, and the black levels/contrast on these Optomas was really ok for me after bit of tweaking (although I know its not ultra high contrast at all), because I have a Black Widow screen and that helps a lot.

    Except the missing 3D (which I will probably learn to live without after a while), this model fits the bill for me on several points:
    1: Sharper image with 2716 x 1528 native resolution and 2 x shift, as opposed to 1920 x 1080 with 4 x shift
    2: Small casing, especially compared with the Optoma UHD60, 65 and 550X, which are way too bulky for my liking
    3: Very low noise (or so I'm told ...?)
    4: Frame interpolation

    Aaaaaand, how about 24p playback? Or just judder in general?
    And am I missing something vital here in general? :)
     
  12. afzal

    afzal
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    There's another French site that also reviewed the projector. I've spoken to both Gregory and Hervé a number of times about this projector, which I purchased in early February based on their reviews.
    As I've written here, I'm pretty pleased with it, although it is a PITA to calibrate and Dynamic Black seems broken. Further experience shows that there seems to be a problem with memory retention which makes for difficult calibration. It seems to reset memory settings in certain cases. I've arranged to send mine back after Easter, at the very least to get it checked, and hopefully to get a firmware upgrade.
    To answer your questions, I'm not susceptible to rainbow effects, but I do know how to find it, and I can't with this projector - your mileage may vary. The colour wheel is RGBCY, but doesn't suffer with respect to other wheel types as far as I can see.
    I think the Acer is superior to the Optoma UHD60 (even the UHD65). It is certainly superior to the UHD40 which uses the vastly inferior 0.47" chip.
    Noise is very low (lower than my previous Optoma HD300x), but I returned my first purchase as it was making a whistling noise (defective chip).
    I've not really had to use the frame interpolation for 24p material, except on a few rare occasions. When I do use it, the lowest setting is sufficient.
    In terms of blacks, it's better than my HD300x, but as with all DLPs it takes some work to get something acceptable. Personally, I'm fine with it.
     
  13. steveprior

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    I was happy until I got bad flickering on Silent mode. I exclusively used Silent mode until this started to happen, but switching to any of the other modes made the projector much louder. Certainly not quiet.
    I sent it back to Acer’s repair shop but it came back exactly the same: flickering on Silent/Eco, noisy on anything else..
    I’m not sure what to do now.

    I think the flickering is bulb arcing, and I have used nearly 800 hours on Silent, but I wasn’t expecting that noise off of Silent..
     
  14. afzal

    afzal
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    Silent mode uses native resolution with no upscaling to UHD. In this mode I can't hear my projector at all. In other modes there is noise, but easily acceptable. As I mentioned, I had a defective first unit which they replaced, at is was making unacceptable noise in all modes using the scaling.
    So, either you are extremely sensitive to noise, or you have a defective unit.
     
  15. steveprior

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    It was your post that encouraged me to send the projector back, but it is still making the same sound. My better half describes the projector as “fairly loud” so I’m not sure it’s me.
     
  16. afzal

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    Very odd. Did you get any information from them when they sent it back to you as to what was repaired? Maybe what I could do is record a short video of the projector playing something, with the camera close to the projector so you could get some feeling for what I hear. To make it as best a test as possible, we should both record the same sequence from the same source with similar conditions.
    Is your projector ceiling mounted? Mine is, and I can place my camera just below it.
    Do you have a Blu-ray/UHD Blu-ray player?
    If those conditions are met, then if you have blu-rays of the 1st 6 episodes of Star Wars, or the Harry Potter series, we could select a scene from one of them for both of us to record.
     
  17. steveprior

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    What a great idea! I don’t have a camera but will an iPhone suffice? My projector is ceiling-mounted. I have rips of blu-rays which I play through an Nvidia TV Shield via a Sony amp. I’ll see which of the Star Wars films I have when I get back home in an hour or so.
    Thank you!
     
  18. steveprior

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    Ok I do have Attack of the Clones. I've also uploaded three videos to DropBox. One is a short clip of the flickering bulb on Silent mode. The second is a video with the sound of the projector when switched from Silent to Standard mode. The iPhone mic is 10cm from the front left fan exit. The third is a video of a decibel app (dB Meter) display when switching from Silent to Standard mode.
    Any views?
    PublicShare
     
  19. afzal

    afzal
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    Haven't had a change to get to them yet (holidays and all that.). I'll review the clips you've posted, and will check on Attack of the Clones for a suitable, quiet scene, later. In the meantime, if you find a good quiet scene and film it, let me know.
     
  20. afzal

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    Had a quick look at your 3 clips.
    1. Decibel app - I'm not sure how accurate these apps can be, but 51 is way too high, given that the reviewers got about 31, and we are talking about a log scale!
    2. Difficult to judge anything from the other two clips. I think it's only possible to judge noise by having a reference background sound, such as the dialogue of a low clip played using the projector's internal speakers (there's too many extra variables if you use your AVR/external speakers).
     
  21. steveprior

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    Ah good point. I’ll choose a quiet clip with some dialogue and record at a specific projector internal speaker volume level [emoji106]
     
  22. jumguf

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    Thanx, Steve and Afzal ! :)

    Not sure if I'm much more confident, as you always have to see this stuff with your own eyes anyway to get an idea if it'll work for you. So when I get the time, I guess I'll just dive in, order the animal, throw some movies at it and see how it works out. The rainbow issue is my biggest concern right now, as it seems all other quirks can be managed more or less ...
    And if I see rainbows all over or whatever, I guess I can just send it back :)

    (Reviews can also be a bit sketchy ... I read the French review of the Optoma UHD40, which claimed the unit was so noisy you'd have to make an isolation box for it. I then saw it in action in a shop, had it right next to me and to me it seemed next to completely inaudible ... I was a bit underwhelmed with the sharpness though, which is why I at least set my mind on not going for any unit with the 0.47 chip, but the 0.66, which at least has a higher physical pixel count, as I'm pretty sure that makes the biggest difference comparing with any XPR shifting)
     
  23. afzal

    afzal
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    Perfect.
    I looked at your meter video again. It's reading in dBA, not dB. That's a weighted scale to take into account human ear sensitivity. If you can, change to the absolute dB scale, because that's what are used in specifications and reviews.
    For instance, Gregory in his review measured 29dB in silent mode, 31.5 dB in eco mode ,and 37 dB in normal mode. So, eco mode is about twice as noisy (absolute) as silent, while normal is nearly 4 times more noisy than eco. A 3dB difference is about a doubling of noise intensity. However, human perception means that you need an increase of about 10 dB to perceive it as a doubling. So normal mode isn't even perceived as twice as noisy as silent mode. Silent mode is also about the level of ambient noise in a library!
     
  24. afzal

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    I don't think the 0.66 chip has more pixels than the 0.47, they're just bigger.
    However, machines with the 0.47 have been lambasted by reviewers.
     
  25. steveprior

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    Ok I've found Gregory's review so I can also measure at 50cm, but from what I can read, dB(A) is the contour filter most commonly used for measuring sound. I can also use dB(C) and dB(Z) but dB(A) seems to be the most common from the choices I have.
     
  26. jumguf

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    Oh, but it does, most definitely ... I think actually its the other way round. The micromirrors, that make the pixels are most likely the same size on both chips, but the amount differs.
    All XPR shifting aside, the 0.66" has 2716 x 1528 micromirrors, so a bit less than double resolution compared with the 0.47", that has standard 1920 x 1080 mirrors (or in fact 2048 x 1200, but only 1920 x 1080 of those are active, hence the "light border" of inactive pixels/mirrors around the edge of the image, that people have been screaming about, and rightly so. I saw it, and it looks really poor .... )
    I saw you have a Black Widow screen too? That'll help out a bit too with the black levels, I imagine? :-D
     
  27. afzal

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    Gregory and Herve both list raw dB readings without contour filters, so it would be useful if you could use a meter app with a raw mode. I can use the Sound Meter app at 50cm with dbA to give you a reference from my setup, however.
     
  28. afzal

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    I stand corrected. You are absolutely right, the 0.47" is a full HD version, so mirror size is the same (I've not done the math, but I presume it's the case).
    The black widow helps with black levels, indeed. I've only got one friend without one as a comparison point, so it's very subjective to judge, but I'm generally happy with the black levels I can achieve. I never use ECO mode or Dynamic Black, btw.
     
  29. jumguf

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    Ok, you don't use ECO?? But how about the noise then?
    And the Dynamic Black seems to make some artifacts, you mentioned? Dynamic Black was actually one of the consoling points of my viewing of the Optoma UHD40, as it actually seemed to improve both black levels and overall image immensely ....
     
  30. afzal

    afzal
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    Noise level has never been an issue for me. I understand that people use Eco mode to prolong bulb life, but for me I don't see a reason. My philosophy is why deliberately main your projector? If I spend thousands on a projector I want to get the most from it. If it means changing bulbs more often, then so be it.

    Also, in standard bulb mode the Dynamic Black doesn't appear to do anything. I get the feeling it works in Eco mode by temporarily bumping to standard mode in dark scenes. Once correctly calibrated ( :) ) you don't need DB, I think.
    To answer your question, yes, DB seems to create terrible violet blooming in white areas and maybe even issues of banding and solarization. By staying in standard bulb mode I have a better chance of reducing those issues through calibration.

    As a final note, I've arranged to have my projector sent back to Acer once I return from my Easter break. I sent a list of my issues to them (HDR not triggering, solarization, violet blooms, noise and speckle, ISF memory being lost, modes not being applied when they are supposed to be, HDR modes not working, saved memories periodically being reset to defaults...). I know that the H7850 and V7850 had a firmware upgrade for similar issues (to C10), so I'm hoping they've got a firware upgrade for the M550.
     

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