Bought a Crucial m4 64GB off the classifieds
Thank you Tony, that looks like an option. I'll have a look. So are the audio settings in XBMC independent from the settings in the Windows Control Panel. In other words, if I change audio settings inside XBMC, would the settings in Windows Control Panel remain unchanged?If you want to use xbmc it's possible to output both to hdmi and optical. Modified builds to achieve this are here: [Project] Return of the Dual Audio Output support (Helix/Gotham/Frodo)
Apologies for raising this thread from the dead but I'm hoping that someone might be able to give me a steer on something.
A friend gave me their old Revo RL80 which wasn't behaving. I suspected it just needed a spruce up and probably a new CMOS battery. I stripped it down, gave it a good air dusting, refreshed the thermal paste on the CPU cooler and perishing thermal pad on the underside of the motherboard. I then slapped an SSD in it, an extra 4Gb of RAM to bump it to 8 and installed Win10. However I'm running into a bit of a quirk...
The machine boots once the CMOS jumper is reset; a flicker of the power light, a (very noisy) single beep and it boots happily into Windows. Powering down, it then boots happily again. However, interrupt the power by pulling the plug and it won't boot next time unless the CMOS jumper is reset. Even then sometimes it's intermittent and takes another 'clearing' (occasionally it powers on, fan spins, no beep. Sometimes there's no power light but the fan spins and then it turns itself off, doesn't even POST to the splash screen).
It smacks of dying CMOS battery so I bought a replacement - the 3-pin, 3-wire with a CR2032 in a yellow shroud. No change. I wondered if it might be duff too so I sourced another - same issue.
I can't believe it's likely that the 2 replacements were both dead so I wanted to ask here and find out if there's anything else I can try. Stupidly I didn't take pics of the jumper on the board and I can't find a decent high-res pic. Clearing the CMOS means the BIOS resets and I can get it to boot into Windows again.
It really seems battery-related to me but I thought I'd ask here before buying a third battery. What I'd really like is some sort of battery caddy with the right connector on it so I can put in my own, known good CR2032...
Is there anything I'm missing or could have inadvertantly screwed up? It's gotten to the point where it's like it's taunting me and I can't be beaten by a lump of plastic and metal...
It's pretty much silent now I've refreshed the thermal paste; I want to use it for MusicBee audio playback. If I can get it to play ball I'm going to buy a large external SSD, dump all my FLACs on it and use my tablet to control it all from the sofa. I've been running MusicBee for years from the PC and whilst it's quiet, it's not silent.I wouldn't have a clue but out of curiosity what do you plan to use the Revo for?
Ah, I don't have one and even if I did, the battery is a) shink-sealed and b) the contacts on the plug are tiny - I don't even know how I'd get a multimeter in there...?