Acer Aspire Revo Owners Thread *Part 4*

wiz

Distinguished Member
Bought a Crucial m4 64GB off the classifieds
 

Qactuar

Distinguished Member
Bought a Crucial m4 64GB off the classifieds
I'm specifically referring to a mSATA drive though, rather than regular SSD - I've pulled the WiFi card and wanted to check drives are no issue!

Unless Crucial do mSATA SSDs as well...?!
 

wiz

Distinguished Member
Nuts, should have read it properly!
 

soliberus

Novice Member
Hi. I have a Revo RL70 running Windows 7 and XBMC. It's currently connected to my TV with HDMI and the TV in turn is connected to my AV Receiver (optical connection). So I can watch content with the audio coming through the TV speakers and occasionally I can switch on the AV Receiver (like when watching a film).

However, I've replaced my TV and now the sound via the optical output (between TV and AV Receiver) isn't very good and I'm thinking of connecting my Revo directly to the AV Receiver using an optical connection. However, it seems when it comes to audio on the Revo it's an either or situation. You can either set the audio output to HDMI (which means it will go to the TV) or Digital Out (which will send it via the optical output to the AV Receiver. Is this correct?

That would be a bummer, because ideally I want the sound to go to the telly, but I want the option of turning on the AV Receiver if I'm in the mood for some beefier sound.

Has anyone connected their Revo to an AV Receiver with an optical cable?
 

soliberus

Novice Member

Funkmeister

Standard Member
Apologies for raising this thread from the dead but I'm hoping that someone might be able to give me a steer on something.

A friend gave me their old Revo RL80 which wasn't behaving. I suspected it just needed a spruce up and probably a new CMOS battery. I stripped it down, gave it a good air dusting, refreshed the thermal paste on the CPU cooler and perishing thermal pad on the underside of the motherboard. I then slapped an SSD in it, an extra 4Gb of RAM to bump it to 8 and installed Win10. However I'm running into a bit of a quirk...

The machine boots once the CMOS jumper is reset; a flicker of the power light, a (very noisy) single beep and it boots happily into Windows. Powering down, it then boots happily again. However, interrupt the power by pulling the plug and it won't boot next time unless the CMOS jumper is reset. Even then sometimes it's intermittent and takes another 'clearing' (occasionally it powers on, fan spins, no beep. Sometimes there's no power light but the fan spins and then it turns itself off, doesn't even POST to the splash screen).

It smacks of dying CMOS battery so I bought a replacement - the 3-pin, 3-wire with a CR2032 in a yellow shroud. No change. I wondered if it might be duff too so I sourced another - same issue.

I can't believe it's likely that the 2 replacements were both dead so I wanted to ask here and find out if there's anything else I can try. Stupidly I didn't take pics of the jumper on the board and I can't find a decent high-res pic. Clearing the CMOS means the BIOS resets and I can get it to boot into Windows again.

It really seems battery-related to me but I thought I'd ask here before buying a third battery. What I'd really like is some sort of battery caddy with the right connector on it so I can put in my own, known good CR2032...

Is there anything I'm missing or could have inadvertantly screwed up? It's gotten to the point where it's like it's taunting me and I can't be beaten by a lump of plastic and metal...
 

Nom

Active Member
Apologies for raising this thread from the dead but I'm hoping that someone might be able to give me a steer on something.

A friend gave me their old Revo RL80 which wasn't behaving. I suspected it just needed a spruce up and probably a new CMOS battery. I stripped it down, gave it a good air dusting, refreshed the thermal paste on the CPU cooler and perishing thermal pad on the underside of the motherboard. I then slapped an SSD in it, an extra 4Gb of RAM to bump it to 8 and installed Win10. However I'm running into a bit of a quirk...

The machine boots once the CMOS jumper is reset; a flicker of the power light, a (very noisy) single beep and it boots happily into Windows. Powering down, it then boots happily again. However, interrupt the power by pulling the plug and it won't boot next time unless the CMOS jumper is reset. Even then sometimes it's intermittent and takes another 'clearing' (occasionally it powers on, fan spins, no beep. Sometimes there's no power light but the fan spins and then it turns itself off, doesn't even POST to the splash screen).

It smacks of dying CMOS battery so I bought a replacement - the 3-pin, 3-wire with a CR2032 in a yellow shroud. No change. I wondered if it might be duff too so I sourced another - same issue.

I can't believe it's likely that the 2 replacements were both dead so I wanted to ask here and find out if there's anything else I can try. Stupidly I didn't take pics of the jumper on the board and I can't find a decent high-res pic. Clearing the CMOS means the BIOS resets and I can get it to boot into Windows again.

It really seems battery-related to me but I thought I'd ask here before buying a third battery. What I'd really like is some sort of battery caddy with the right connector on it so I can put in my own, known good CR2032...

Is there anything I'm missing or could have inadvertantly screwed up? It's gotten to the point where it's like it's taunting me and I can't be beaten by a lump of plastic and metal...

Put your multimeter across the new battery(s) and make sure it is indeed providing 3v...
 

Funkmeister

Standard Member
Ah, I don't have one and even if I did, the battery is a) shink-sealed and b) the contacts on the plug are tiny - I don't even know how I'd get a multimeter in there...?

VP8dZv1l.png
 

damianmcr

Active Member
Ooh, that's perfect thanks! I do have my jumpers in the right place according to your pic. Now if I can just work out why the bastard keeps failing to boot... :D
I wouldn't have a clue but out of curiosity what do you plan to use the Revo for?
 

Funkmeister

Standard Member
I wouldn't have a clue but out of curiosity what do you plan to use the Revo for?
It's pretty much silent now I've refreshed the thermal paste; I want to use it for MusicBee audio playback. If I can get it to play ball I'm going to buy a large external SSD, dump all my FLACs on it and use my tablet to control it all from the sofa. I've been running MusicBee for years from the PC and whilst it's quiet, it's not silent.

I had a brief and unsuccessful period with a Bluesound Node 2 (2021) but hated their app, hated the way they organise artist sorting and the tagging/indexing was utter garbage. Made me realise just how good/flexible MusicBee is so I thought I'd be able to repupose the RL80. Unfortunately it's fighting me!

If I can't get it to play ball I'll probably buy a NUC or a passively-cooled mini PC like this Kingdel which will be more than sufficient: Amazon product
 

Nom

Active Member
Ah, I don't have one and even if I did, the battery is a) shink-sealed and b) the contacts on the plug are tiny - I don't even know how I'd get a multimeter in there...?

VP8dZv1l.png

You just need to touch the multimeter probes against the metal pins you can see on the top of the white connector - no need to actually insert them inside.

I think flat batteries are your issue here - those Lithium cells slowly drain over time, if they have been sat on a shelf for 10 years then they're probably flat... You need to confirm the batteries are definitely working before you can troubleshoot further 😁

It's interesting that there are 3 pins on that connector, given that the battery only has + and -
I think the white AND the black are probably both - and the red is +
 

Nom

Active Member
Dead capacitors is the other thing that can affect old electronics - look closely at them all (circled in red), do any look like they're bulging on the top or leaking ?

1654731877905.png
 

Funkmeister

Standard Member
Thanks, I did check the caps (I had experience with dead caps in my M-DAC) and they all look OK.

I did wonder about another dead CMOS battery but this is the second new one I've bought - it did occur to me that it could be a run of bad luck. It was why I was thinking it would be handy to get a 'caddy' where I could fit my own known good CMOS battery to it. This is part of the reason I hate proprietary solutions in what should be a straightforward battery replacement. I don't know why the battery has 3 wires when it is only +/-.

I don't really want to fudge about with trying to 'make my own' version either, it's a bit outside of my wheelhouse.

Maybe I just strip the bits out that I fitted and sell the rest for parts on ebay.
 

Funkmeister

Standard Member
Edit: I bought a multimeter out of curiosity and both batteries show 3.24v so it's not that...

Thanks for the advice and recommendations but I don't think the juice is worth the squeeze on this - I'm gonna remove the RAM and SSD and ditch the rest.
 
Last edited:

Funkmeister

Standard Member
I've had permission to offer the RL80 here to anyone that can make use of it for parts. It's everything but the CMOS battery, SSD and RAM which I'll retain for use elsewhere.

When it booted, it worked fine so if someone else can harvest anything further (eg. cooler, wifi card, audio ports, stand etc) and would like it for spares, I'll ship it to you FOC within the UK mainland.

Please let me know soon-ish as otherwise it'll be on its way to the local recycling centre.
 

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