51wh36 Tips N Tweaks

Demon

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A couple of people have asked for some tips 'n' tweaks, so here goes...

I will start with initial set-up then add service level convergence, and manual/eletrostatic focus later.

This is aimed at us more 'mere' mortals, and may contain setup procedures that the experts may say is not the most accurate technically, but I believe that the ease of using these methods and chance of messing things up outweighs the 'more' correct methods...


Initial Setup Tips.

Picture Settings
===========
- These are personal to a degree, but their will be some commonality.. the default pic modes 1 and 2 are far too contrasty, and 'hurt' the eyes.. pic mode 3 is too soft.. after some twiddling the following seem about right..

DVD's with good contrast, detail
----------------------------------------
Contrast 65
Brightness 40
Colour 45
DNR 0
Sharpness +10 to +20 depending on DVD
Pic Mode - Active/Progress

SKY
-----
Contrast 50-55
Brightness 45
colour 40-45
DNR 1 to 2
Sharpness +10
Pic Mode - Active/Progress

Low Contrast
-----------------
Contrast 40-45
Brightness 40-45
colour 40-45
DNR 2
Sharpness +10
Pic Mode - Active/Progress


***NOTE*** - be careful with DNR, having this set higher then 2 will cause motion smearing on poor broadcasts, such as eastenders, etc... I would go with as low a value as possible, 1 seems fine for me... (0 fro DVD's as they generally don't need it)


SERVICE MDOE
===========

*****NOTE**** - This is done at your own risk, you can screw things up, and I will not guarantee that following any of these procedures will not mess things up!!! only do this if you are confident you know what you are doing...


WARNING - Obviously this involves placing the 'set' into service mode, and this does reveal some potentially dangerous data that should not be changed.. now accidents happen, no matter who you are.. so the usual advice of writing down the 'Setting Name and value' just in case is always a good idea...

To do this, follow these steps..
1. Have thre remote handy, and sit next to the set, with the little door open, so you can see the 'menu' button on the set.
2. Press 'MUTE' briefly on the remote. the set will 'mute'
3. Press 'MUTE' again, and hold this time, while you press and hold the MENU Button on the TV, you need to press and hold both buttons in quick succession, but make sure you press the 'mute' on the remote fractionally before the 'menu' on the TV.
4. After about 0.5 - 1 Seconds the Set should enter Service mode, this is easy to spot, as on the top right a grey/blue small box with an S in it will have appeared, and you will have the first Data entry (RCUT) displayed, and its value next to it..
5. If the set has not gone into service mode, then repeat steps 2/3
6. OK, now you need your pen and paper... and you are only going to touch the UP/DOWN CHANNEL arrows on the remote control...
7. Write Down the Value Name/Data then press the UP Channel, this selects the next bit of data...
8. Do this until all data names/values have been written down..

OK, now here are the basic features of Service mode.
1. Pressing CALL on the remote will cause the 'data' to disappear and the set functions (channel numbers/video selection) as normal, except there is an 'S' in the top right
2. Pressing MENU on the TV again will bring the data back up and put you back into full service mode..

Other functions while in service mode
- Pressing the 'video' input button on the remote will cause the set to cycle through RED/GREEN/BLUE and CROSS HATCH/WHITE patterns then back to TV..
- Pressing 7 on the remote will bring up the 'Service Convergence Menu' (discussed later) (Note if watching a DVD whilst in PROGRESS Mode, then you may have to press 'yellow' to go directly to the convergence setting...

TO EXIT SERVICE MODE - PUT THE SET INTO STANDBY THEN TURN IT BACK ON..

Next - Service Level Convergence..
 
You must enter SERVICE MODE, as discussed in the previous message.

ENSURE THE SET HAS WARMED UP FOR AT LEAST 1 HOUR, preferably 2...

Now, if you are watching SKY/TV then the procedure for getting the convergence menu up is
1. Press 7 on the remote.
2. You now get a menu that allows you to adjust 100Hz Wide/SuperLive/Cinema as well as Progressive, all of these are the PAL Modes..
3. Select the one you wish to adjust, and press the right arrow on the remote, (this is normally volume up). You are now in teh convergence adjusting screen, this will be a white grid. Skip to step 5

If pressing 7 does not work when in service mode, and the 'data' is displayed in teh top left (if not press the menu button on the TV to get this displayed, then go back to step 1)

4. If you are watching a DVD via component, and in Progress picture mode, I have found that pressing 7 does not work... you need to press the yellow button.. this will take you straight into the white grid convergence setting screen..

5. OK, we are in convergence setting screen... some basic keys.
2 - UP
4 - LEFT
6 - RIGHT
8 - DOWN
5 - TOGGLE Adjust Mode
3 - TOGGLE COLOUR TO ADJUST
RED - TOGGLE RED GRID
GREEN - TOGGLE GREEN GRID
BLUE - TOGGLE BLUE GRID

NOTES
- The Cursor colour will be GREEN/YELLOW/CYAN.. this relates to GREEN/RED/BLUE adjustment... you will see why later..
- you can only adjust some of the points, not all!!!
- The lines will look out of focus towards the edges, do not worry, the blue will look especially bad.. this is normal.

And the procedure..
1. GREEN - Geometry
- Ensure only the GREEN Grid is displayed, by Toggling the BLUE/RED Grids off..
- Ensure the Cursor is GREEN, use '3' to cycle the colour of the cursor
- Now, you can use 2/4/6/8 to navigate the 'cursor' around, 5 to enter Adjust mode, then the 2/4/6/8 to move that point around, and 5 again to leave adjust mode, and then 2/4/6/8 to move the cursor to the next point of interest.
You want to adjust the GREEN Grid to remove any geometry errors... this is the 'reference' grid that we will use to converge the other colours to, so its important that this is straight and true..

2. RED Convergence
- OK, Ensure the RED and GREEN Grids are on, this gives a YELLOW combined grid..
- Ensure that the cursor is 'YELLOW' - use button 3 to cycle the colours until it is
- Now we are looking for where the 'red' grid diverges from the green grid, if the grids are converged, then it will be pure yellow, if you can see 'red' on the bottom/top/right or left of the yellow line, then at this point, the grids are not converged, so you need to goto the nearest available point and press 5 to adjust, and 2/4/6/8 to move the red point around until it overlays exactly with the green to give a pure yellow line..(press '5' again to leave adjust mode, if you find that a point has a red halo, which means that for example you can see red both tot he left and right, then just go for the best fit, with the same amount of red on each side.. now use 2/4/6/8 to move to the next point of interest

3. Blue Convergence
- OK, now for ease of setting up, you will find it easiest with the RED and BLUE grids on (Pinkish Grid)
- Ensure the cursor is CYAN, use '3' to cycle the colours if not,
- Now, you need to look for where the BLUE is not converged with the pink grid, this can be hard to see, as the blue is very soft, and can halo a lot... some tell tales signs are to look for if the pink grid looks a little darker on one edge of a line, this indicates the blue is out to that side.... again use 2/4/6/8 to move the cursor, '5' to enter adjust mode, 2/4/6/8 to move the blue around, then '5' to leave adjust mode..

4. White Check
- OK, ensure all grids are on (RED GREEN and BLUE) this gives the final white grid...
- You need to look for any points/lines where RED or BLUE is not properly converged, and then move the cursor using 2/4/6/8, then '3' to change to the cursor to the correct colour (Yellow for RED, and cyan for BLUE), then '5' to enter adjust mode, 2/4/6/8 to move the colour, then '5' to leave adjust mode..



OK, its done...
To exit the Convergence setting screen, press the 'RIGHT' Arrow (normally Volume UP) on the remote... or if you pressed 'yellow' to enter this mode, press it again (maybe twice) to leave the mode..
AS YOU LEAVE, the GRIDS collapse, this is NORMAL... don't panic...

Now, if you are back at the convergence menu, you can select another aspect mode to adjust... ifyou had to press yellow originally , then you will be back at your TV picture... there is only one mode to adjust in this case!!
DO NOT USE THE PAL WIDE TO ALL... ADJUST EACH ONE INDIVIDUALLY... the results are worth it!!!!


remember to switch the set off (into standby) and back on to get out of service mode...
 
OK, Next is the basic Picture height/width...

This is only a rough guide, the best method I have found with no specialist tools/DVD's is the following... this may get refined as this thread grows...

1. You will need a disk with THX Optimode setup, or anything that has a screen with a 'border that defines the viewable screen area.. in the case of the THX Optimode I used the 16:9 aspect check screen, and connected via RGB SCART.. as this is how my SKY/XBOX are connected... I think the AVIA DVD would be better, but most pepole don't have this...
I found my set to be way out, it was shifted up quite a bit, and this was obvious on SKY, with a black area at the bottom of the picture... after this 'rough' adjustment, this was much better..


The procedure...
1. ENTER SERVICE MODE..

WIDE Aspect adjustment
-------------------------------
2. Ensure the 16:9 Test Pattern is on the screen, and the 'WIDE' screen mode is selected on the TV

***NOTE*** we will be adjusting the HPOS/WID/HIT/VPOS/ settings .. so write down the originals... these should change per 'screen mode' so write them down for 'WIDE'/'14:9/CINEMA/4:3 etc...

3. The Idea is to use VPOS (Vertical Centre), this will move the picture up and down... so that the top/bottom border are the same relative distance from the top/bottom of the screen surround.... this is used in combination with HIT (Height) to expand/contract the picture in the vertical plane...
4. The HPOS (Horizontal centre) and WID (width) are used to adjust the horizontal..

you are aiming to get the 'white border surround' of the 16:9 check screen to be just inside the physical screen surround... with an even gap on all sides.. how much inside is not that critical..... just close will do, this is a rough alignment, and is just to remove any major imperfections with the factory setup or convergence adjustment affects.

OTHER ASPECTS
- OK, once we have finished wide, we can roughyl tweak the other screen sizes...
4:3 - For this, select this mode on the set, and then measure the grey areas on each side.. no doubt they will be out.. use HPOS only to adjust these so they are equal... (changing WID will alter the aspect ratio, only do this if you are capable of calculation the correct height/width to give a 4:3 ratio.. ) then I used the THX Optimode 16:9 check pattern to adjust VPOS/HIT so that TOP/BOTTOM border lines where close to the screen border.
SUPERLIVE - Since this expands the picture in all directions, I used the THX Optimode 16:9 check screen again, and used the inner border line to ensure it had an equal gap top/bottom and left/right... only using HPOS/VPOS to move the picure, since I am not sure what aspect ratio SUPERLIVE is, I left the WID/HIT alone
CINEMA - Again used the inner border, etc to ensure that it was centered correctly, only using VPOS/HPOS to move it, since this is zoomed in, its hard to get a reference to adjust to, measuring from the circle on the test pattern to top/bottom/left right ensured I got the same LEFT/RIGHT Gap, and TOP/BOTTOM Gap...
With the use of a ruler, you can adjust this more accuratly, but then this is a rough way of doing it, and so accuracy to that level is not always required...

REMEMBER to exit service mode by switching the set into stand-by and back on again...

***NOTE*** - If after this you think that when viewing normal TV, or SKY/DVD that the position of the screen is 'out' then just revert back to the settings that you wrote down at the start.. For me, I've used a few test patterns, and for my DVD Player/TV/SKY/XBOX, this is good enough, they all tie in... but I cannot guarantee this will be the case for all DVD Players, etc...
 
Now the 'biggie'...

Electrical and Optical focus...

***NOTE*** this involves dismantling parts of the external structure of the TV. and at sometime exposing parts of the set with dangerous voltages, a modicum of common sense is required... and is carried out at your own risk!!!

***IMPORTANT*** ENSURE THE SET IS IN ACTIVE/NATURAL or 100Hz scan modes, do not do this in PROGRESS MODE (the revealing of scan lines is essential)
Make sure the set has warmed up for 2 hours, then you can turn if if desired while dismantling, (approx 10 mins) then switch the set back on for 20 mins before atttempting the focus adjustments.

OK.. lets strip the thing down...

This is based on the 51wh36p.. but apart from the front /screen removal, the procedure is the same..


1. The Front Grille...
focus1.jpg

This is held on by big clips... simply pulling the grille back from the set at the points shown in red will remove the grille.. This worked for me, but I cannot guarantee that it will not cause any damage.

2. Next, we can remove the two lower side mouldings, and under screen bronze strip...
focus2.jpg

- The side mouldings just pull forwards after unscrewing.. the bronze strip needs to be 'wiggled' forwards after unscrewing.



3.this just then leaves the screen and the control panel under the screen,
focus3.jpg


****WARNING**** the control panel has the main ON/OFF button which carries mains 240V... so please ensure the set is unplugged before removing this, and when the set is switched on later, that this is in a safe position...
- First remove the 4 screws holding the Control Panel, then just 'wiggle' this forwards and away from the set, it is tethered by its leads, so can only be 'rested' against the set...

focus4.jpg

4 Next remove 10 screws that secure the screen BEHIND the set.. these are accessed from the rear... (Position shown in green) only remove the 4 front bottom screws afterwards... and have an assistant handy to hold the screen while you do this, they can help you lift it off as well...

The screen should be off, we now need to remove the front access panel temporarily... The front acess panel is held on by 5 screws, and is easy to remove... this reveals the CRT necks, and the Focus Pack to the right..

5. ELECTRICAL FOCUS.
focus5.jpg


In preperation for this, the set should be in SERVICE MODE, now if you've had the set switched off so far to reduce the risk of electrical shock, then getting into service mode is slightly more complicated but still stright forward, just follow the standard procedure, but the menu button is on the conotrol panel that is resting on the set now, so you will have to carefully lift the flap, taking care not to put your fingers anywhere near the back of the ON/OFF switch.. ..
Once in service mode, you need to press the video input button to cycle through red/green/blue etc until you get the cross hatch displayed... just look into one of the lenses to check this is the case...
Once you have this, we can perform the electrical focus...
focus6.jpg


- Locate the Focus Pack, and look for the bottom three 'pots' these are Red/Green/Blue focus from left to right..
***DO NOT TOUCH THE TOP 3 POTS****
1. RED Electrical Focus
Now, put your right hand on the RED Focus Pot, and lean into the set, looking into the red lense (Squinting may be a good idea.. its bright!!!), now you can rock the pot around, which should make the grid in the red lense move in and out of focus, if you 'rock' the pot around the optimum focus point, you will see that little horizontal scan lines appear when focused correctly, and the grid lines are their sharpest.. just look for the scan lines, as these are the best indicator of focus, when these are most pronounced, it is in focus.
2. Green Electrical Focus
- As with red, but use the GREEN Focus POT (Middle Bottom pot) and look into the green lense, again look for the scanlines being most pronounced for best focus
3. BLUE Focus
- Since blue is 'soft' then you will probably not see the scan lines, in this case, you are looking for the grid lines being the thinnest, and the 'dimmest', when in focus, the lines will appear dimmer then when out of focus...

OK, you are electrostatically focused... put the front cover back on (the one that covers the CRT necks/Focus Pack)..


MECHANICAL FOCUS
- Ahh finally here...

HERE IS MY 'QUICK' METHOD - which I think saves a lot of time, and also gets better results... I've tried the normal method, and re-did it twice, but finally used this quick way which worked a treat..
You will need either 3 lengths length of fishing line ,or similar, 8-10 feet long...


The middle of each piece of line, is attached to the wingnut bolt on the lens

focus8.jpg

You will need to pull any plastic caps from the bolts before tying the middle of each piece of line..
- Now slacken the wingnuts, these aren't tight, so will be easy to undo.. roughly 2 turns or until you fell them go very loose...

Next thread the strings throught the CRT housing, and out the front sides of the set..

focus9.jpg


- Now, put the screen on, and put at least each rear corner screw in to ensure it is 'flush to the cabinet, this is important to achieve the correct focus..

- OK, we can see what we are doing now. We need to enter the service level convergence mode... as detailed previusly, and adjust say 100Hz Wide... just get to the White Convergence grid...

1. Select only the RED GRID - using the GREEN/BLUE Buttons to turn the others off.
2. Using the Red Fishing line ends, you can now move the lens left and right, and you should be able to roughly find the best focus quickly. Initially focus it in the centre, and rock the string left and right to check for best focus, you should see the faint scan lines appear. Once you've found the center focus, look at say the top left and bottom right, now rock the string left and right, and see how far out these are from the centre focus.. by rocking the string left and right you can see at what point the top left/centre then bottom right come into focus... the best compromise will be with the centre almost perfectly focused (still visible scan lines) and the two corners slightly out of focus by the same amount. OK this is the preliminary RED
3. Turn off the RED grid, and turn on the GREEN grid, and repeat the focus procedure as for RED.. get the centre in best focus, and the corners equally but no doubt slightly out of focus.. Look for Red or green blooming, this is where the green is out of focus, and you get either a strong green halo effect, or a 'reddish' halo affect appear on the grid, when in focus the lines are solid green, try and reduce any bloom to a minimum..
4. This is important, and not discussed in the service manual. Switch the RED and GREEN grids on (gives a combined yellow grid), and adjust the red convergence as best you can... now look for areas where the RED or GREEN Halos on both sides of the grid lines. This is indicating where one grid is in better focus then the other... normally it will be isolated to a single corner.. in which case, if its a RED halo for example, go back to step 1, and refocus the red, ensuring that you compromise more towards this part of the screen as opposed to any other corner... what you are trying to do is ensure that the width of the RED Grid lines in all corners matches the width of the GREEN Grid lines... this way the RED halo is removed.... Always keep the centre in as good a focus as possible, and just adjust the compromise of which corner gets the better focus after this...
5. OK, assuming this is OK, BLUE is next, switch on the BLUE grid, and swicth the others off. Then Focus this lens. Since its soft, looking for scan lines is hopeless, you just need to look for the thinnest grid lines as the point of best focus, again the centre should have priority, with a small tweak to trya nd get the corners evenly slightly out of focus...

I think you will get the hang of it, some messing around with focus shows how the points are inter-related.. when the centre is in focus, pulling the string slightly left will focus one corner perfectly, pulling the string right from centre, focuses the other corner, so depending on which corner is worse, after getting the centre perfect, a small tweak of the line in one direction from this centre will knock the centre focus out a fraction, but not massively, but give a more even corner focus.

Once Finished, then take the screen off, and carefully finger tighten the wingnuts, replace the screen and check that none of the lenses has moved.. if your gentle, this shouldn't happen..

Then do a full service level convergence setup - no doubt it all be miles out, then check the Height/Width/offsets haven't changed...

Then put the set back together....
 
Fabulous work, Demon (great answer to my call for you and Nathan_Silly to put together a tweak guide in the other thread!). This thread could really do with being a sticky.

Out of interest, does nathan have anything to add yet? Nathan??
 
Originally posted by Loada
Fabulous work, Demon (great answer to my call for you and Nathan_Silly to put together a tweak guide in the other thread!). This thread could really do with being a sticky.

Out of interest, does nathan have anything to add yet? Nathan??

The innards of his RP look pretty greyish, and look very shiny. Looks like bloth cloth lining is on the to-do list!

I'm pretty amazed you recommended setting sharpness at +10 & +20 levels for DVD. That'll bring in ringing and other yukky artifacts
vomit-smiley-020.gif


Regarding H/V sizes- it'll affect geometry & convergence. So I would adjust H/V size before convergence. btw, what is your overscan ratio (shown with Avia DVD)

Can't you use adjust H/V Pos. in the user kevel? Otherwise a excellent post, and should be made a sticky, with my SVM & RP Lining threads. I've spotted your set is missing the plastic stick thingy piece between the red lens/red crt (see my RP lining thread to see it) Do you know what this does?
 
I'm pretty amazed you recommended setting sharpness at +10 & +20 levels for DVD

No one was more amazed then me... the sharpness goes from -50 to +50.. so its not that intrusive... it juts gets very grainy above +30...


Regarding H/V sizes- it'll affect geometry & convergence. So I would adjust H/V size before convergence. btw, what is your overscan ratio (shown with Avia DVD)
Good point about H/V I'll amend that.. as well as reducing the picture size... oooppsss... as for AVIA DVD, I lost it 2 week ago... It was doing the rounds with my mates, and somewhere along the line it has gone missing, with everyone swearing they never had it last.. so I can't check overscan accurately..

Can't you use adjust H/V Pos. in the user kevel?
There is no VPOS in the user level...and it doesn't seem to work per screen aspect ratio...

I have no idea what the 'stick' thingy is either... the mechanics of it all are a bit of a mystery to me...
 
Hi Demon,

Great topics man,Good that you tweakt your set.

I want to now if you have the servicemanual for the 50" version.

Because i screwed up the grid on pal wide.

And i dont know the excact distance between de grids.

I have the manual for the 42",but those are different.

Now if i watch a pal movie on the right side de screen goes like an egg ,and on the right like a square.
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

MVrg,
raymen
 
Great.....I love the tutorial but did you really notice the difference after taking it apart and tweaking it. I am only willing to go through the service menus so will this be sufficient.

Also, i notice you have a centre speaker on top and was wondering which one it is and how you got it to stay on top?
 
did you really notice the difference after taking it apart and tweaking it

Unfortunately mine wasn't as well focussed as my Brothers 51wh36.. and it was annoyin me.. so for me, yes it mad a huge difference, also pyschologically, I know the Focus is now very good, so when I see some out of focus text on sky, I know its the poor quality transmission, and not my set!!! it now seems slightly better then my brothers, because its more evenly focused..

I am only willing to go through the service menus so will this be sufficient
This is the best place to start anyway... just the convergence may improve things a bit... you will soon see, as when you enter the convergence setting mode, the white grid will highlight any areas that are not properly converged...

Also, i notice you have a centre speaker on top and was wondering which one it is and how you got it to stay on top?
This is just a B+W LCR 60.. but it is 'large'... The 51wh36 has a nice wide moulding that comes upto the top edge, that is perfect for a centre speaker.. I used a bit of rubber anti slip stuff that you put under rugs on wooden floors... this grips it very well.... no way could it fall off...
 
Could you possibly take a picture from the sides and back with the centre speaker still on top just so i can see exactly how its sitting there?

Please???????
 
did you really notice the difference after taking it apart and tweaking it

Unfortunately mine wasn't as well focussed as my Brothers 51wh36.. and it was annoyin me.. so for me, yes it mad a huge difference, also pyschologically, I know the Focus is now very good, so when I see some out of focus text on sky, I know its the poor quality transmission, and not my set!!! it now seems slightly better then my brothers, because its more evenly focused..

I am only willing to go through the service menus so will this be sufficient
This is the best place to start anyway... just the convergence may improve things a bit... you will soon see, as when you enter the convergence setting mode, the white grid will highlight any areas that are not properly converged...

Also, i notice you have a centre speaker on top and was wondering which one it is and how you got it to stay on top?
This is just a B+W LCR 60.. but it is 'large'... The 51wh36 has a nice wide moulding that comes upto the top edge, that is perfect for a centre speaker.. I used a bit of rubber anti slip stuff that you put under rugs on wooden floors... this grips it very well.... no way could it fall off...
 
Superb post. I have a Tosh 40pw03 and was thinking of upgrading to this set. My main concern is the 100Hz. Is is good enough now or can it be switched off if necessary.
I would like to get the set proerly setup as per your post but would rather watch someone do it first to learn. Is there anyonw on the group who has done all this to their new Tosh 51, who would like to get a paid trip up to Scotland, put up in a nice Hotel and then do it for me. If so, please email me.
 
My main concern is the 100Hz. Is is good enough

Yep, I think it is...

Sport etc, suffers no ill effects I can see, there are 4 modes you can put it in,

100Hz - this is basic 100Hz with little processing, so as pure as you would want it (still has a slight amount of flicker if you are critical, but no noticeable artefacts)
NATURAL - the smoothest, cleanest picture, but some fast moving text may get some artefacts, but sport seems fine, no motion smearing/pixellation.. much better then the previous models NATURAL mode..
ACTIVE - for sports.. seems the same as NATURAL to me, although clearly has no noticeable artefacts on fast moving text, etc, and footbal is great on this as well.. not problems, or at least none I could see.
PROGRESS - de-interlaced.. and again no noticeable artefacts..

I have to say, having walked around curry's when the footies on, the phillips sets in particular are awful... and in fact most 100Hz TV's look bad.. I can easily spot this, but at home, I have never seen anything 'noticeable', other then fast text can have some artfects when in NATURAL Mode, but this is so infrequent, and minor, I don't really care...
 
Demon,

I had been thinking of getting an RPTV, but whevever I go into Dixons or Currys they looked terrible compared to the CRT next to them. I had always thought this was just bad setup so with a print out of your guide I went to my local Currys to try it out on a 50WT29B.

How dissappointed I was!

Obviously I didn't have time to follow all of your instructions in the shop, so I just went for what I thought were the important steps.

I didn't think it was possible to get worse than just plain out-of-the box, but you sure proved me wrong.

Why can't amatures like you just accept that the guys at Toshiba know what they are doing???? Meddling with things you don't understand is just asking for trouble.

If your guide shows the best you can get from an RPTV, I'll just have to spend my money on a plasma.

The only downside I can see is that I can't balance a speaker on top of a plasma, and I'll have to think of something else to fill my bay window with.
 
Hi,

Can i ask how the tosh was connected,because i own a 50wh18p and a primare v25 dvdplayer it is connected true a QED scart and the picture is far better then on my old panasonic crt television.
And i shall never want to go back too a normal crt.

And i have see many plasma`s but dont like de picture so much.

if you have a good source ,and a good cable( and the tosh is callibrated like mine, you will be in for a suprise.

I think you didn`t see the best off the toshiba`s.

MVrg,
Raymen
 
Being in Currys, I obviously couldn't pick and choose my sources, and I had to settle for the RF feed that they used for the whole shop.

So yes, I would have to conceed that had I taken the set away I would have got better results at home and yes, I might not have seen the set at it's best in the shop.

But for the purposes of comparison though, with the same feed in, the plasmas were streets ahead.

There were no geometry problems, the picture didn't change colour in the corners, and I didn't need a height adjustable sofa to get the best viewing angle.

I just can't see why everyone goes on and on about these RPTVs.

Call me old fashioned, but when I want to watch the telly, I don't want to have to dismantle it first to get the "best" results.

In contrast to Demon's tortuous manual RPTV setup procedure, which tells you to do just about everything bar stand on one leg and sing "God save the Queen", all the plasmas I've seen have got a special setup button which instantly gives far superior results. - It's called the "on" switch.

Why can't you "enthusiasts" just admit that you're flogging a dead horse with this old technology, and rename these carbunckles "R-I-PTVs"
 
Oke we are trough talking.
For you it it`s a plasma,for me only an rptv.

Bye Bye now.

MVrg,
raymen
 
ROFL :)

Thats is indeed the best trolling I've seen in ages...

We could obviously repsond to that... but I tend to just feel sorry for such people...

As was said, It looks like RPTV just isn't for you mr Rana.

Like all Technologies, there are pro's and con's, sufficed to say that we all generate a list of criteria on which we base our judgements.. and it is clear that yours obviously puts Plasma out there, on a pedestal..

Enjoy your plasma..!!!
 
Hi Demon, just curious to know how far you sit from your t.v. because I'm looking to buy a tosh soon and can't decide whether to go 42" or 51". I'll be sitting approx. 10 feet away from mine and I was concerned I might be a bit too close for a 51"(which is the one I want really) Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers Oddbodd

p.s.how about when I get it you come and give it the "Demon tweaks" :D Beer would be provided of course ;)
 
From my eyes to the TV is 11.2 ft.. and that seems more then perfect... absolutely no problems with uniformity of brightness.

For movies, I usually move the Sofa closer to the screen, between 8-9ft, and although there is marginal darkening in the corners, its only apparent on a fixed colour screen, and is not noticeable at all when watching any moving pictures.

If you were to sit less then 8 Feet then the corners are slightly darker, but its not a major problem, I play my XBOX when sat 6 feet away, and it doesn't detract from the experience...

at 10ft, I'd say you'd be OK with the 51", its amazing how quikcly you'll think that looks small!!!! but maybe demo one in the store, some have sofa's near the RPTV's, get a tape measure, and put the sofa the correct distance away, use a plain background, as well as a film or something, I suspect you be happy enough...
 
Well my eyes are 9.5 feet away from the tellie ,and there are no problems even here,And i own a 50 inch.
I even think that after a while your eyes are used too the big screen,and your thinking even on a bigger screen.

Im thinking it,my wife is.........

MVrg,
Raymen
 
Raymen,

When you say 9.5 feet, do you mean 9 feet and 5 inches, or 9 and a half feet (9 feet and 6 inches)?

Maybe this is where I'm going wrong.

Demon,

When you vary your TV viewing distance for different media, do you fit the wheels to the TV or sofa?

Can you suggest an optimal distance for the advert break in Coronation Street?
 
ey,

Oke then in dutch iam am sitting 3.2meters from the tellie.

And it is perfect for me,i dont see any scanlines in the picture.
MVrg,
Raymen
 

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