4k 120hz HDMI 2.1 from PS5 but keep old AVR?

[One more thing]

Long time no posts as ive been enjoying my VT65 plasma for years so im out of touch with getting old tech to work with new etc, but ive been tempted into getting a new LG OLED that supports 4k 120hz for FPS gaming on my PS5. Trouble is I love my amp - anthem MRX 310 which drives my MK m7's satellites beautifully. Not sure I want to spend £2k plus on an AVR that has similar power and HDMI 2.1 if I can help it!

Question is what are my options if I want to keep this amp for the sound I spent years perfecting!?

Was thinking if I use HDMI 2.1 cable from PS5 direct to an LG C2 then use the TV to send the audio to the 310? The Anthem only has the older (HDMI 1.3/4) ARC not eARC so think that rules out uncompressed PCM 7/5.1 and only up to DD 5.1? Same would go for optical out for a new LG C2 I assume? Any other issues with this solution I should be aware of? Is there an option where I can get uncompressed PCM 5.1?

Anyone else is the same boat wanting to keep older AVR and get the 4k 120hz on PS5/Xbox X? Maybe there are some other solutions I am not aware of?

Thanks!
Chris

 

[Jester1066]

I think this is what you might need:



But will caveat that with I've never owned one!

Perhaps @Joe Fernand can offer further advice?

 

[andy1249]

Im using one of these with my CX to my old yamaha 1.3 receiver.

Amazon product

Does the same as the sharc device above but its cheaper.
It basically takes the eARC audio from the TV and feeds it over a HDMI 1.3 connection to an input of your amp.
Works fine.
There are two modes on it , one is eARC mode as explained , the other is splitter mode which is useful if you want DTS from your source. LG TVs will not handle or passthrough DTS,

 

[One more thing]

Ah both those options sound fantastic in principal, was hoping there would be a solution like this! Much appreciated quick responses both of you!

Will have a good look into them further..

Cheers,
Chris

 

[dante01]

I've a PS5 hooked directly up to my LG C9 and I've an older Yamaha RXA1080 AVR non HDMI version 2.1 that is eARC enabled. The thing I've noted is the fact I prefer to set the PS5 to prioritise ray tracing and would rather sacrifice 4K 120Hz in favour of the better graphics I get without the higher frame rate.

 

[Joe Fernand]

And don't go chasing an HDMI '1.2' cable - try what you have and if you do hit any issues look for an Ultra High Speed certified HDMI cable.

Joe

 

[One more thing]

Will do. Thank you! Joe would you recommend the shARC from us?

 

[dante01]

And don't go chasing an HDMI '1.2' cable - try what you have and if you do hit any issues look for an Ultra High Speed certified HDMI cable.

Joe

I'm assuming you made a typo there and meant 2.1 as opposed to '1.2'?


AS you relate, HDMI version numbers are not used to catagorise HDMI cables. Here are the official categorisations of HDMI cable types:

HDMI Cables - Different Cable Types

HDMI cable overview with the different HDMI cable types, their port capabilities, and how to tell the HDMI connector types apart. HDMI 2.1a

www.hdmi.org

It should however be said that having the cable officially tested and certified isn't strictly a requirement. There are some very reliable cables available that are not certified. Certification is a bonus though and adds reassurance when looking at a cables credentials. The prices associated with the certified cables has dropped in recent years, making their prices more comparable to the prices being asked for the non certified cables so there's no real reason not to now opt for a certified cable.

 

[Joe Fernand]

@dante01 - Cheers for the correction. Typing on the go is never good

@One more thing - I'd give the unit andy1249 has suggested a go first if the logistics are simpler.

Andy designs systems with embedded HDMI so I doubt he would be recommending something which has not had a thorough test

Joe

 

[One more thing]

@dante01 - Cheers for the correction. Typing on the go is never good

@One more thing - I'd give the unit andy1249 has suggested a go first if the logistics are simpler.

Andy designs systems with embedded HDMI so I doubt he would be recommending something which has not had a thorough test

Joe

Nice one thanks joe, will try the cheaper one! Thanks all

 

[Jay53]

I have the PureTools eARC Audio Adapter, Splitter and Extractor also available on Amazon.

Works with my Samsung q85r and Denon x1700. Yes, my avr is hdmi 2.1 but TV only has one hdmi 2.1 port which is not the eARC port.

The only things I would say is that it is not a seem less operation.

Firstly my device is usb 1A power so have it running off the HDD 1A usb port on the TV.

The issue with that is it's always live when the TV is live which means even if I go into the TV settings and switch Audio to TV (i.e. don't want full on 5.1.2 avr capability), the TV tries to be clever and goes but there is a live eARC connection I will switch to that. All well and good if the AVR is on but no sound otherwise. One of these days I'll power it via the avr somehow

Secondly, if your avr is also connected to your TV, you need to turn arc/eARC off on the avr as you aren't actually using it.

Thirdly, you have to manually switch the avr over to the hdmi input the extractor device is connected to. Obvious but not as seemless as direct eARC connection between TV/AVR which just switches automatically

Finally, controlling avr via TV (e.g. volume) remote doesn't work as the TV sends it down the arc/eARC hdmi connection which is the arc/eArc extractor device but that doesn't in turn pass it onto the AVR. So TV shows receiver (eARC) volume +/- message on screen but actually does nothing lol

 

[One more thing]

I have the PureTools eARC Audio Adapter, Splitter and Extractor also available on Amazon.

Works with my Samsung q85r and Denon x1700. Yes, my avr is hdmi 2.1 but TV only has one hdmi 2.1 port which is not the eARC port.

The only things I would say is that it is not a seem less operation.

Firstly my device is usb 1A power so have it running off the HDD 1A usb port on the TV.

The issue with that is it's always live when the TV is live which means even if I go into the TV settings and switch Audio to TV (i.e. don't want full on 5.1.2 avr capability), the TV tries to be clever and goes but there is a live eARC connection I will switch to that. All well and good if the AVR is on but no sound otherwise. One of these days I'll power it via the avr somehow

Secondly, if your avr is also connected to your TV, you need to turn arc/eARC off on the avr as you aren't actually using it.

Thirdly, you have to manually switch the avr over to the hdmi input the extractor device is connected to. Obvious but not as seemless as direct eARC connection between TV/AVR which just switches automatically

Finally, controlling avr via TV (e.g. volume) remote doesn't work as the TV sends it down the arc/eARC hdmi connection which is the arc/eArc extractor device but that doesn't in turn pass it onto the AVR. So TV shows receiver (eARC) volume +/- message on screen but actually does nothing lol

Nice one thats all good info! Will look into that extractor too. Thanks very much for your help!